jumpsoffrocks

I just had all of my hydro's done for my clutch lines + cylinders. New clutch kit w/flywheel. and a rebuilt t56. my only problem now is the clutch doesnt seem to fully disengage. When i'm driving its easier to shift when there's rpm's although when it's sitting it wont go into reverse. The clutch catches for all gears right at the floor and it pulls out till there's roughly 1" of play at the top end of the pedal. How do adjust the clutch to play back further or might it be air in the lines?
1999 z28
t56

-=Modified=-

iTrader: (3)

You might find an answer in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ch-issues.html

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Well, you either have a bleeding issue (need to bleed again) or you need a shim. What clutch did you install?

jumpsoffrocks

I actually didnt do the work myself. New job/college, aswell as i didnt have the tools, and this is my daily driver. The rebuild is a stock clutch, im not sure who its made by specifically. The bleeding I was going to do now actually, just at chance that whomever did bleed it through didnt get all the air out.
I've worked on other cars transaxels/clutches, never big tho. ; P i read that thread already just wanted to be sure there wasnt something more specific that i wasnt missing thnx! i'll repost if the new fluid works...

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

So, to make sure I got this:

You have NEW: MC? Slave? Clutch/flywheel? Rebuilt tranny?


Your engagement point, shouuld have NOTHING to do with tranny,

So close to floor, would say improper install (slim) or

air in line/faulty MC/Slave. If saying those are new, then would lean towards air in line.

Now, it MAY need a shim, but chances are you went back with a stock clutch, and you should be OK there.

So, I would try bleeding it.....(or replacing MC if not new)

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Jumps, if you are truly using new OE clutch kit then you shouldn't need a shim as the parts would have the OE geometry. If you bought a remanufactured OE part the flywheel would likely be a resurfaced parts that could be too thin which would lead to the need of a shim.

We make a .115" shim for use with our SC09 series kits and I am happy to sell one to you seperately if you decide you need one. I certainly suggest that you thoroughly bleed the system before tearing the car apart again, but if bleeding doesn't help then it would be a good idea to take some measurements. I recommend that you refer to the post below:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html

jumpsoffrocks

thanks guys, i ended up taking it to a shop. was problems with the shift forks being out of place or bent? not sure didnt get a straight answer really, or i've forgotten. sorry bout the late reply kinda forgot about this untill i recently acquired another problem.