'66 Mustang LS1 T-56 Clutch Insanity
07-21-2015, 03:35 PM
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'66 Mustang LS1 T-56 Clutch Insanity I have been reading this forum for several years for helpful tips but have never encountered a problem which made me want to sign up until now. I'll start with a little info on my current project. I'm currently building a '66 Mustang with an LS1 T-56 combo from a 2002 Camaro.
I have spent approximately 200 hours just trying to get the hydraulic clutch to work. I am using the stock pedal assembly modified slightly to allow it to mate to a Wilwood 260-1304 master cylinder. From the master cylinder I have a line running down to the slave cylinder.
I recently replaced the slave cylinder with a brand new OEM replacement. This replacement did have one difference though, the input has a small metal clip to hold the line in which the old one did not. I'm fairly certain its just a small design change but feel free to correct me.
The slave cylinder and throwout bearing assembly match up and are snug with the pressure plate forks. I installed a 3' remote bleeder line allowing me to bleed the clutch in the engine compartment.
I am very sure that it is bled properly and all the parts work as I have pulled the entire clutch assembly as-is out of the car with the transmission and tested it.
When I press the pedal there is pressure. The pedal feels about the same as it does in my '04 Silverado which has a working clutch. I have been doing all of this on a car lift and to test the clutch I have been holding down the pedal while someone else tries to rotate the back wheels. The car is not suitable for actual driving tests at the moment.
Any advice as to how I might get this clutch working would be greatly appreciated. I'm at my wits end and I'm considering hiring a priest to come in and exercise the demon that must be possessing my poor Mustang.
Thanks in advance -Rustang66
I have spent approximately 200 hours just trying to get the hydraulic clutch to work. I am using the stock pedal assembly modified slightly to allow it to mate to a Wilwood 260-1304 master cylinder. From the master cylinder I have a line running down to the slave cylinder.
I recently replaced the slave cylinder with a brand new OEM replacement. This replacement did have one difference though, the input has a small metal clip to hold the line in which the old one did not. I'm fairly certain its just a small design change but feel free to correct me.
The slave cylinder and throwout bearing assembly match up and are snug with the pressure plate forks. I installed a 3' remote bleeder line allowing me to bleed the clutch in the engine compartment.
I am very sure that it is bled properly and all the parts work as I have pulled the entire clutch assembly as-is out of the car with the transmission and tested it.
When I press the pedal there is pressure. The pedal feels about the same as it does in my '04 Silverado which has a working clutch. I have been doing all of this on a car lift and to test the clutch I have been holding down the pedal while someone else tries to rotate the back wheels. The car is not suitable for actual driving tests at the moment.
Any advice as to how I might get this clutch working would be greatly appreciated. I'm at my wits end and I'm considering hiring a priest to come in and exercise the demon that must be possessing my poor Mustang.
Thanks in advance -Rustang66
07-21-2015, 06:13 PM
#2
Not sure about your problem, but I just installed a clutch, new slave, and Wilwood master and it took a whopping 5 minutes to bleed it out.
First, MAKE SURE YOU BENCH BLEED THE MASTER! Easy to do and saves a lot of time.
Second, if your master has a bleeder, then bleed that. If not, then open the slave line at the slave and slowly push on the master. When it hits bottom, close the line and release the pedal. Do this about 2 times. After that, slowly pump up the master until you get pressure, then release the slave line.
We will assume you checked the gap in the throwout bearing versus the pressure plate? I had to put a .188" shim behind the slave.
Personally, the slave seems a bit small. I have a 1" Wilwood master and it works great. The factory had a .875".
First, MAKE SURE YOU BENCH BLEED THE MASTER! Easy to do and saves a lot of time.
Second, if your master has a bleeder, then bleed that. If not, then open the slave line at the slave and slowly push on the master. When it hits bottom, close the line and release the pedal. Do this about 2 times. After that, slowly pump up the master until you get pressure, then release the slave line.
We will assume you checked the gap in the throwout bearing versus the pressure plate? I had to put a .188" shim behind the slave.
Personally, the slave seems a bit small. I have a 1" Wilwood master and it works great. The factory had a .875".
07-21-2015, 06:44 PM
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Is there a lot of free play in the pedal? Slave might need to be shimmed. Slave will strike a total of 13mm.
07-22-2015, 01:12 PM
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The pedal has pressure and I'm sure it is bled properly. I've bled it so many times at this point that I could do it in my sleep. The throwout bearing actually pushes up to the pressure plate to the point that the spring which holds it out from the transmission is compressed about 1/2 an inch.
07-22-2015, 03:57 PM
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Then you have 2 possible issues. A) You do not have the gap set correctly on the slave cylinder and it is not pushing the pressure plate in fully to allow the clutch to release B) You have too small of a master cylinder and it is not pushing enough fluid through to the slave to fully release the clutch.
Or, it could be both of the issues. Your gap is wrong and your slave too small.
Read the post in the Sticky section above on how to measure the gap on your slave cylinder and go from there.
Or, it could be both of the issues. Your gap is wrong and your slave too small.
Read the post in the Sticky section above on how to measure the gap on your slave cylinder and go from there.
07-23-2015, 07:50 AM
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Honestly, I think you need to measure for a shim. That's what Joyridn' is talking about to take up the gap between the TOB and PP. It's more common than people like to think that you will need one.
What diameter is your wildwood master? stock master diameter is 3/8". Ive seen 3/4" and 7/8" be necessary to move enough fluid
What diameter is your wildwood master? stock master diameter is 3/8". Ive seen 3/4" and 7/8" be necessary to move enough fluid
07-23-2015, 05:46 PM
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Honestly, I think you need to measure for a shim. That's what Joyridn' is talking about to take up the gap between the TOB and PP. It's more common than people like to think that you will need one.
What diameter is your wildwood master? stock master diameter is 3/8". Ive seen 3/4" and 7/8" be necessary to move enough fluid
What diameter is your wildwood master? stock master diameter is 3/8". Ive seen 3/4" and 7/8" be necessary to move enough fluid
Did you use the Modern Driveline kit for the Wilwood MC? I am using their kit with a 3/4" Wilwood MC on my 67 Cougar, Camaro T56, LS7 clutch, stock style slave, and it all works perfectly.
Post some pictures of the MC mounting, both from the pedal side and from the engine side.
Andrew