'Thias

So the stock clutch is quickly giving up the ghost. I'd like some input as to an appropriate replacement. I'm shooting for the cheapest that will handle my long-term power goals (no more than 450hp/tq at the wheels). While I won't hit those numbers for a couple of years, I want to make sure the clutch isn't a shortcoming later on.

I know the drill from here...the SPEC guy will recommend SPEC, the Monster guy will recommend Monster, the McLeod guy will recommend McLeod, and the lone LS7 enthusiast will be laughed at. While the input from y'all is appreciated, I'd also love to hear from folks who have beat on these on a road track as to issues, streetability, and longevity.

Thanks in advance friends!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I think you called it...we all have a tendency to support the companies that we represent...that is part of the hob after all! That being said, since we have better context for what you can expect from our offered product line I will make two recommendations:

For a car that will still see a good amount of street use the Stage 2+ will be great. It provides greater heat resistance than the stock (or lesser stages) and offers much higher torque capacity. I have run similar units in my last 4 cars, including two that saw a great deal of road course usage.

If you want something even more track oriented the Stage 3 would be a great option. It is even more heat resistant, with even more capacity. It will be a bit more on and off relative to engagement because it used pucks on both sides of the disc but that is expected.

We also offer Billet Steel and Billet Aluminum flywheels and a Billet Aluminum Pressure-plate option that will reduce total assembly weight significantly! Let me know if you have any further questions!!

brigade24

I do a lot of lapping at my local track (Calabogie Motorsports Park) and I run a Monster Level 2 with a lightened flywheel. Its a robust unit and can handle the autox/track duty i throw at it...It took a long time to break in and the pedal is heavy which took some getting used to...

although i've never tried it myself, there are several road racers that rave about the LS7's easy-to-drive characteristics...and it doesn't cost very much. so it is certainly an option to consider. bare in mind 450 is or very close to the LS7's limit, it's a heavier setup than what is offered on the market and it will not last as long as the competitions' offerings...

I personally do not recommend buying a clutch with a puck style disc because it is substantially more difficult to be smooth particularly when downshifting/performing heel-toe maneuvers. I'm sure you know that on a RR track, smoothness = speed

All the of the brands you mentioned make excellent products...Monster clutches don't need to be shimmed and SPEC clutch most likely do NEED to be shimmed. Can't speak to the McLeod in this area. Shimming is extra work which i don't believe in so i went with the Monster since they made a clutch that was specific to my application...that's why it did not make sense for me to go with SPEC...same money, more work

was it the right choice? so far it's holding nicely, once broken in you can modulate the "grabiness" of the clutch. aside from the heavy pedal (I've have yet to receive comments on how big my left leg is getting i'm happy with the unit...

FWIW My next clutch will be a twin disc that can handle my lapping/autox stuff...my gripe with those is that you may not be able to use a tick clutch MC which is currently in the car and i'm not a fan of the stock MC...anyhoo, something to think about.

My HP goals are around the same as yours...i wanted to do suspension first since putting the power down on the pavement is still a challenge...specifically on corner exit.

hope this helps.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The shim is provided as a preventative step...and as you can see from other posts in this forum there are people that wind up needing shims when using parts from other manufactures too...but I'm sure you realized that!

'Thias

Thanks for these so far. I didn't mean to imply that I didn't want to hear front he sponsor reps...on the contrary, I find your knowledge of your product invaluable when it comes to making a call on what will work best for me.

The car will have to serve daily driver use for at least another year, but by then I should have the funds for a winter beater and can transition it to a more fun summer car. The suspension was next on the list for modification, but the clutch died first .

Sounds like a Spec 2+ and Monster 2 are int he right range. I think I'll go with the lighter flywheel at least, based on chats with my mechanic (who races mustangs) and trying my brother's cars (a racing clutch/light flywheel WRX and bone stock ls1/t56 'vette).

Anyone have insight on Diamond Clutch? that's the other company I was looking at that fit my price range.

brigade24

That is certainly the case...other products may need shims...and that's fine. The information i received was that i did not need shimming for the product i purchased and that was in fact the case...

Thias, we are travelling down the same road...i know have a winter beater and a pick up truck

oh and i don't know anything about Diamond Clutch...certainly worth investigating.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Honestly for your goals the Level 1 Monster with 18lb flywheel will get you taken care of for the best bang for the buck, it won't be too much clutch currently and will hold your future plans while being smooth for daily driving yet take a beating at the track. Lastly be aware of imitators, all clutches aren't created equally even if they appear the same on the surface...feel free to contact me with any questions about a Monster. Chris, 817-750-2000