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M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested

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Old 08-03-2004, 11:39 PM   #1
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Default M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested

We have been asked to provide a guide to doing a TH400/350 and a glide conversion for our cars. We also have been asked by a few members on how to do a M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 conversion. I have not personally done one, but I have a general idea on how to accomplish this. Can someone provide any specific details on this conversion, either way. For instance, PCM programming is required. A new wiring harness may be required for the different connectors, or at least rewiring it for the electrically inclined, etc.

Any information you guys could provide would be very useful!
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:10 AM   #2
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Well here is a pretty good write up someone already did for 94-97 LT1's, but most of the info applies to the LS1/T56 as well, thought I would start out with that..

http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

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Old 08-05-2004, 09:54 AM   #3
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I can provide info on going from T56 to TH400 as I did that last year for a season before going back to M6.

what all do you need me to do? I don't want to just starting going off pointlessly, what are you looking for?
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Old 08-05-2004, 11:27 AM   #4
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give a whole right up....what materials you needed...like parts....what type of wiring...anything needed to be reaced PCM tuning wiring...etc. and also how you did it...as detailed as possible...but i would say try to keep it easily understandable.

just all the info you can post on the subject will be greatly appreciated by just about everyone looking into this
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Old 08-05-2004, 04:40 PM   #5
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I really don't need much if anything on the M6 to TH400. I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.
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Old 08-10-2004, 12:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DERTY
I really don't need much if anything on the M6 to TH400. I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.
Yah what he said, im currently in that same situation, as im trying to convert my m6 to a a4 and it would alot of help to have a nmice write of what i need and what goes were for the wiring, and computer stuff.
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Old 08-12-2004, 11:06 AM   #7
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I'm thinking about converting my car to an automatic, but I don't know what one A4 or a TH350/ 400 if you guys have any write ups that would be great only thing I'm worried about is the computer stuff and what I would have to do with all the wiring.
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DERTY
We have been asked to provide a guide to doing a TH400/350 and a glide conversion for our cars. We also have been asked by a few members on how to do a M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 conversion. I have not personally done one, but I have a general idea on how to accomplish this. Can someone provide any specific details on this conversion, either way. For instance, PCM programming is required. A new wiring harness may be required for the different connectors, or at least rewiring it for the electrically inclined, etc.

Any information you guys could provide would be very useful!
I had a shop complete an A4 to M6 swap on my car. Here is a list of the parts needed.

shifter
shifter ****
transmission
bellhousing
transmount
pilot bearing
tranny crossmember
clutch
flywheel
hydraulics
pedal assembly
shift plate
flash pcm

Parts total ~ $4000
Labor ~ $900

I no longer have a need for the Sy3500 TC...PM me if you're interested.
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:49 PM   #9
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OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).

Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM here, or our local message board www.kyhorsepower.com if I haven't responded in a timely manner. (sorry MIGHTYMOUSE )

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.
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Last edited by dragonZ28; 01-06-2005 at 09:24 AM..
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:53 PM   #10
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I'm glad you posted your info, Matt. That info will help out so many people.
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:54 PM   #11
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Dragon, thanks for the info man!

Now, if I have my ls1/4l60 on the ground how many hours would you say it would take to get it all done?

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Old 08-17-2004, 02:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payne
Dragon, thanks for the info man!

Now, if I have my ls1/4l60 on the ground how many hours would you say it would take to get it all done?

-Jason
I could do it all over again in probably 7-10 hours. You will get nowhere near this time on your first swap. Plan for a solid 15 hour completion time. The wiring gave me a headache with all the damn fuses blowing when testing circuits. Just watch the above fuses, and do the exact wiring noted by me above and you should be fine.

Also, when you cut the hole for your master cylinder use at least a 1 5/8" hole saw. A 2" hole saw will probably be best and make this install go much easier. You'll have to install the manual pedal assembly to know exactly where to drill your two holes for your u-bolt and hole for the master to come through. I made the mistake of using a 1 1/2" hole saw, and losing the ability to cut it wider because my pivot point was drilled out. PM me with any questions and I'll be glad to help.
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Old 08-17-2004, 02:11 PM   #13
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I already have a wilwood master in my RX7

Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-17-2004, 02:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
I'm glad you posted your info, Matt. That info will help out so many people.
No problem G. I'm just glad to be able to help those needing this info like I did. Big thanks to Gordon at PPC (M3EATR) for his info on my swap.
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Old 08-18-2004, 12:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGhost
I can provide info on going from T56 to TH400 as I did that last year for a season before going back to M6.

what all do you need me to do? I don't want to just starting going off pointlessly, what are you looking for?
I would like to know all that is necessary to do this (M6-A3). I have done some research but have heard a number of different ways. I am trying to keep it cheep. Combining what I have heard from several guys will get me the best results. Most responses I have read were "I think this" or "I heard that". If I can hear from a guy who actually did it, that would be appreciated. I would also like to know the differences in the 350 and 400 (other than weight).
Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2004, 12:14 PM   #16
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a 400 is longer and weighs more, but will handle more power (bigger internals)

If you do have a little bit of money, a 200-R4 is a good way to go (Its a 350 with an OD gear) to keep the rpms down at highway speeds.
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Old 08-18-2004, 01:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires together for hatch release

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.
dragonZ28 Thanx for the info, so I don't need a diffrent(M6) wiring harness to swap over to a M6? This is my third transmission swap- 4L60e to TH350 and now to a M6
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Old 08-18-2004, 01:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strini SS
dragonZ28 Thanx for the info, so I don't need a diffrent(M6) wiring harness to swap over to a M6? This is my third transmission swap- 4L60e to TH350 and now to a M6
No new wiring harness is needed. Your auto's harness will work just fine. If you want to use the CAGS module (why????) and reverse lockout solenoid, you can just tap the proper pins in the PCM. I am not running either of these. Just plug the holes up, and you'll be good to go.
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Old 09-10-2004, 08:34 PM   #19
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To help a little with the wiring, here are some circuit diagrams from the 2002 Factory Manual. These include the starter circuit, the VSS/Cruise Control/Reverse, and the reverse lamps.

Hopefully this adds to the mix.
Attached Thumbnails
M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested-wiring1.jpg   M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested-wiring3.jpg   M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested-wiring2.jpg  
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B_Pay
I had a shop complete an A4 to M6 swap on my car. Here is a list of the parts needed.

shifter
shifter ****
transmission
bellhousing
transmount
pilot bearing
tranny crossmember
clutch
flywheel
hydraulics
pedal assembly
shift plate
flash pcm

Parts total ~ $4000
Labor ~ $900

I no longer have a need for the Sy3500 TC...PM me if you're interested.
thats crazy ... i dint pay too much more than that for my whole damn car!

i would just buy an M6 car before i spend 5 grand on a convo
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:06 PM
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