White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

PROBLEM SOLVED:
The bad component was a bad slave cylinder. I replaced it when the McLeod went in the car. It was acting up. Replaced it again with a brand new one and bye-bye hydraulic issues. Figures once I find out what is wrong with the hydraulics- I yank the McLeod out and post it for sale. I have a Spec 3 and stock master in there now.

If anyone is interested in buying my McLeod setup- here is the link:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/503624-fs-1-800-mile-mcleod-twin-disc-clutch-adjustable-master-cyl-almost-new.html




I have a problem with a mushy pedal. One day, the car drives awesome- no issues with "air in the lines" and shifts perfectly. Then, the following day, the clutch has some mushy pedal travel and shifts differently. The thing that is odd is that it happens on and off with no apparent "schedule" One day it is good, the other bad. I thought everything was bled all the way- cycled master (bench bled), and had instant pedal travel. The clutch, master, slave are all new- 900 miles.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Andy

DEE99TA

iTrader: (7)

I have an LS7 clutch installed with the Mcleod. I have the same issue. I prebled and bled with mighty vac and convential methods. The engagement point moves around and makes it a pain to drive. Normally after driving for a period of time it firms up really nice.

In the last few weeks, its seems to have done better, but not like a I want it.

DEE

buschman

See link in sig. It works for me and all the friends I've helped with their clutches.

Mike

Shamson5.7

iTrader: (5)

Same problem here. LS7 clutch here too. Bump for some answers.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

I got mine pressure bled with a machine at a local Firestone Tire place. The funny thing is the pedal was all jacked up driving there first thing in the morning. Even when parking the clutch was acting up. The guy goes to test drive it, comes back, and says its perfect- no issues. I scratched my head once again. So he bled it, and said there was no air in the lines. Clutch was good until the afternoon, then acted up again.

AS SOON as I figure this out- most likely a faulty master cyl. or slave, I will post up immediately.

Thanks
Andy

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have had similar problems.I have cartech with mcleod master. Same symptom.Bleed it and its fine for a day or so then it sits and gets air in the lines I guess again and won't go into any gears usually. I took mcleod apart and put in rebuild kit but it was fine so not sure whats up with that.I also thought maybe my slave bleed screw was not tight and it fell into tranny trying to tighen it,guess loosed it instead hard to tell its so freakin tight in there. Can't get bleeder screw back in slave no matter how I try.I am going to be drilling a hole above the bleeder for future messing around and bought a remote bleeder to use but it also requires dropping the tranny to install it.

I might switch clutches was going to textralia but now not sure.Think will give ls7 a try.I am buiding a big power car but not going to be tracking the car or using it near full power 99% of the time. Just wanted to know that the car could make big power if I want it to and maybe they will have even better factory clutches in a few years. like even stronger ls7 clutch.
I am not that impressed by aftermarket my cartech does seem to work ok when it works and prettty sure its not the clutch although maybe the pressure plate bolts have backed out or something..might have to take things apart to find out.
Anyway if you figure out whats up with your setup let me know.Some mcleod masters had casting flash or something that would cut thru the seals and then they would leak but thought they fixed that problem.This was quite awhile ago.

buschman

I know it doesn't sound like a "gotta bleed" situation, but I really think it is. I'm not a chemical engineer, so I don't know how the properties opf hydraulic fluid and air act in those lines under different circumstances. But my gut is telling me that air in certain parts of the hydraulic system aren't as noticable as others. When the car is driven it moves the air around. I find that after the car has sat over night it's a great time to reverse pressure bleed the lines. Get yourself a mityvac. If you're looking at my write-up all you need to do is the last portion, the incar stuff. I really think that will help a mushy pedals, travelling shift points, or having trouble shifting into gear at high RPM. Those are all symptoms of air in the line.

Mike

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

I have a mity-vac. Let me make sure I am using it properly. Now, I haven't used the mity-vac since I paid to have it pressure bled at Firestone. When I tried it before here is how I used the mity-vac.
1. Connect hose from mity-vac to mity-vac canister
2. Connect hose from mity-vac canister to hose end (used the biggest end that could fit into the hole in the bottom of the clutch fluid resevoir)
3. Hold hose end in the hole and pump the mity vac up to 25psi- after a couple seconds air was visible (lots of it- big bubbles continuosly for 30+ minutes never getting better)
Note: step 3 was done prior to the removal of the clutch master cylinder to check all connections for tightness. Mity vac was never used after the pressure bleeding.
4. Slowly pull trigger to release the pressure.

Thats what I did. There was mass amounts of air getting "sucked out". This led me to believe there was air getting in the system somehow. That was the reason for the removal, checking of connections, and reinstallation of the master cylinder.

Everything was tight. I even put a small hose clamp around the rubber hose that connects to the 90 degree fitting on the master cylinder instead of using the supplied zip tie. There are no visible leaks. If the above process is the way to "reverse bleed" the system like you said after it sits overnight, then I will attempt that as soon as it stops raining.

How much air will possibly come out?
How long does it take until the air bubbles go away?

Any ideas/recommendations are welcome.

Thank you
Andy

buschman

Hmm well 30 minutes of big bubbles is a lot. I can see why you think something else might be wrong. I might be inclind to get under the car and make sure the slave bleeder is totally closed.

The way you described is reverse pressure bleeding. However a suggestion is to remove the canister. You'll bleed off pressure too fast with the canister on. Also try pushing the pedal in and out to help free up the air.

If you're still pulling big air bubbles out for 30 minutes then something in the system is wrong. Slave cylinder, hydraulic line quick disconnect. I'd be inclind to call McLeod and run it by them and see what they think. other then that I'd replace the slave and hydraulic line.

Did you bench bleed this MC before installing? It must have been bone dry when you put it in to pull 30 minutes of air with the reverse pressure bleed.

Let me know how things go.

Mike

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Yes, I bled the master cylinder before the install. I am going to have my buddy who works at a shop test drive it, and most likely pull the trans back out and inspect everything. I installed everything initially on my back in a garage = no fun.

Like stated before, once I figure it out, I will post up the "problem"

Thanks
Andy

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

I had similar issue with my Mcloed adj. slave cylinder. I simply rebuilt it and no more issues. Mine was brand new also. I heard of this happening alot. Do a search and you'll see what i'm taking about.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Thanks for the reply. I am wondering if I could rebuild it while in the car?!?

Andy

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

No way.... It needs to come out. It just like rebuilding a wheel cylinder.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

The bad component was a bad slave cylinder. I replaced it when the McLeod went in the car. It was acting up. Replaced it again with a brand new one and bye-bye hydraulic issues. Figures once I find out what is wrong with the hydraulics- I yank the McLeod out and post it for sale. I have a Spec 3 and stock master in there now.

If anyone is interested in buying my McLeod setup- here is the link:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503624

Thanks
Andy

Bugsquawsher

iTrader: (1)

I posted about 2 years ago what the problem is with the wondering Engagement point.
Its that POS Mcleod Master.
I went through two of them before I figured it out. What is happening is the Rubber plunger on the end of the piston inside the Master is gettin shreaded by the two holes that let fluid in from the Reservour. The holes have Sharp edges and with every stroke they cut little pieces out of this plunger. If the Groove it leaves in the plunger don't screw you the little chunks of rubber floating around in the fluid will get you.
They get caught on the edge of the plunger and keep it from sealing.
Bleeding fixes the problem some times for a day , a week, or around the block once.
If you are not running a Twin disk clutch you dont' need that pos in there. if you are running a twin disk you need to have one. Take it out, send it in, and have them fix it.

big dave

Installing the Mcleod master was definitely the worst thing I've done to my car. I absolutely hate driving it with the wondering pedal. I too have tried the rebuild kit but that worked for about 1 day.