bczee

iTrader: (12)

Does anyone know how the Viper connect the Hyd line connects to the Master line.... as compared to the GM F-Body ?.. are they the same quick disconnect ? anyone have a picture of it?

I picked up a Viper T56 trans that was converted to a GM input shaft. But the plate is has the bolt hole for the Viper TOB.

I posted a Thread before, and someone just suggested I drill it another one said to use a Viper TOB.. I might consider it if I can re-enforce the drilled holes correctly. I Used an old GM one to try and drill it. It will work. Just need to figure out or get someone to drill the hole in the correct location.. You can see from the picture of the TOB mounted on a GM plate and if you look at the 2nd picture. the bolt holes on the Viper Trans is rotated about 60.. one bolt hole is between the bleed and Hyd line.

But if the Viper TOB will connect to the F-Boday hyd line. I might consider just buying the Viper TOB.(costly $300+)


thank.

Eddiep

iTrader: (26)

I think the disconnects are the same, but if they aren't, you could knock out the roll pin and put an f-body disconnect on a viper slave. NOTE: side by side, the viper slave/TOB assembly is taller than the GM slave/TOB assembly. Not sure if this would cause problems in your setup.

Drilling it for the correct orientation for a GM slave is NOT the solution ... there is simply no meat there to drill.

If you don't want to take a chance, you could always just get a GM front plate for your tranny.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Eddiep.. thanks for the reply..

Yes.. I have thought about swapping the Disconnect, Have already removed it from a
older TOB. I am concerned about using the Viper TOB.. as you indicated, the height is different.. do you know how much it is by? and will it be a factor on the clutch ?

I was considering drilling one and having the Bolt hole counter drill flat, then built back up using some 3/4" alum. round stock with the correct size hole driledl and then Tig it back on (or some of the alum brazing rods, lower temp). Any thoughts on that ?

I think it would be strong enough.. as there doesn't seem like there is that must pulling stress on it, if any at all. It just need to be kept it in place and from rotating.

As far as the front plate.. how much would the plate cost and what is involved with replacing it.. I am sure it will require disassembly of the trans or can it just be unbolted and repalced (not likely) ? I am already into the cost of the trans and don't want to drop too much more into it.

Eddiep

iTrader: (26)

From what I remember, the GM slave/TOB is a hair under 3.6" tall, while the Viper setup is just over 4.3" tall. I wish I could tell you one way or another that it would work or not, but I have no idea.

The only thing the slave bolts do is keep the slave from rotating. I don't see why you couldn't modify your existing front cover in the manner you're describing.

You might also consider bolting the LS1 slave to the viper bolt pattern, and modifying the bleeder and hydraulic line. They would be pointing in the wrong direction, but you could install a line with a remote bleeder in place of the existing bleeder, and change the hydraulic line to work. Might be easier to re-do the hyd line and bleeder than weld/machine a front cover.

The front plate isn't that hard to swap out ... I think it's as simple as unbolting it from the front of the tranny. Not sure what they run.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You might call someone like Rodney at RPM transmissions or T-56 rebuilds or something like that...those guys handle these trannys and their variations a lot.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Eddiep, thanks for you comments..

I went ahead and drilled the TOB by cutting two bolt and putting points on them and installed them on to the Trans. I then put the TOB on in place and tap it to mark the location for drilling of a smaller pilot hole. then drill a larger hole. Built some insert that had step on it and had my welder TIG it in place...

I think it came out Ok. We kept the heat to a min...had water in the seal area. as it started to boil.. we stop and cool it back down and started again on the welding. We did this so we would not harm the seal. but I think it could handle the heat anyway.

Costed me a 6 pack to get the wellding done... thiknk I paid too much ?

Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. I should know how well this works once I get it running (2 months I hope at the latest)

The 1st picture is of the TOB on a GM trans and the last picture is my Modified TOB on the Viper trans.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Nice work! Thats what Hot Rodding is all about. Making things WORK!

Andrew

Eddiep

iTrader: (26)

Looks good. Let us know how it works.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious to know the "depressed" height of the viper TOB. We know the 'extended' height is 4.3" - that's as far as it can go when you have the clutch pedal pushed in for disengagement. But where does it sit when "depressed"? It needs to be in approx the same range as stock if you're going to use an F-body pressure plate.

For example, if "stock" travel is 2.25" to 3.5", well, your viper TOB will need to include that travel range as well, or it's not going to work on a stock style clutch.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Camaroholic, Hey, I see u got a Fiero too..! I have a 87' SE / A3 as a daily driver.

Yeah.. same thoughts here on the Viper TOB travel/height. That is one of the reason that I didn't go with the Viper TOB at this time, the unknown and not having a Viper TOB to research (Retail is over $300). I when with what I had on hand, Modifying the F-Body TOB.
That .9" difference could be a big problem as it could depress the Clutch past the point of where damage will occur.

I should know how my modified TOB work in about 2 month, I hope !

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions.

Eddiep

iTrader: (26)

Camaroholic,

That's been the $350 question all along. I know that the fully depressed height of the viper assembly is going to be significantly taller than the f-body version, since the release bearing itself is longer. As you stated, if there is enough travel for the viper release bearing to depress enough on the slave to fit behind the LS1 PP, you're golden ... if not, you've just wasted a lot of cash on a viper slave/bearing assembly!

If the assembly does fit, you would also have to verify and adjust master stroke so the viper release bearing moves the correct distance. If the GM and Viper slave had the same cross sectional area for fluid travel in the slave, the bearing travel would be correct ... if not, then the master stroke would need to be tweaked to get the correct travel. A 4.3" fully extended height might be enough to damage the PP over time!