HELP! Tex. clutch, sticks @ wot, now has a vibration after track pass......
11-11-2006, 10:12 PM
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HELP! Tex. clutch, sticks @ wot, now has a vibration after track pass...... well i have the single disc tex. clutch/pp/billet flywheel. i installed a new 01+ slave and m/c. since day one the pedal has stuck to the floor if it was over 6500rpms. i have >1k miles on it, and today at the track it was horrible.
on the last pass i held it at 4500, dropped the clutch and hit the throttle (at the same time...) well when i hit the gas the clutch pedal just went to the floor and it bounced the rev limiter (7200). the clutch pedal comes up and the car launches. after that it wouldn't hardly go in gear and now has a vibration somewhere in the clutch. needless to say i drove it home without using the clutch except stopping and taking off
anyone else have problems like this? i'm gonna pull it apart this week but i'm kinda out of ideas. i have bled/bled some more/ rebled it, and i'm sure that is not it. i have also tried different hydraulic lines, one with the drill mod and one without, same results.
please help
on the last pass i held it at 4500, dropped the clutch and hit the throttle (at the same time...) well when i hit the gas the clutch pedal just went to the floor and it bounced the rev limiter (7200). the clutch pedal comes up and the car launches. after that it wouldn't hardly go in gear and now has a vibration somewhere in the clutch. needless to say i drove it home without using the clutch except stopping and taking off
anyone else have problems like this? i'm gonna pull it apart this week but i'm kinda out of ideas. i have bled/bled some more/ rebled it, and i'm sure that is not it. i have also tried different hydraulic lines, one with the drill mod and one without, same results.
please help
11-13-2006, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
slave cylinder needs to be replaced try re bleedin first.
thanks man, BUT any reason for this? it is/was a brand new GM 01+ model. installed with the new clutch. do they have any kind of warranty?
11-13-2006, 10:32 AM
#4
Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
slave cylinder needs to be replaced try re bleedin first.
Its still feels spongy after I go WOT. It makes it harder to shift. Let me know if you get a solid fix for your problem.
11-13-2006, 10:43 AM
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thanks guys.
i first was using synthetic fluid, i ran out after bleeding (was a quart) and now with the regular ****. does the same damn thing. i hooked the mityvac up and pumped to 20", layed it down for 30 min and it was still at 20" when i came back. i don't think it has air in it...
i first was using synthetic fluid, i ran out after bleeding (was a quart) and now with the regular ****. does the same damn thing. i hooked the mityvac up and pumped to 20", layed it down for 30 min and it was still at 20" when i came back. i don't think it has air in it...
11-13-2006, 12:13 PM
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Ok, first off to anyone who ever has an issue with one of our clutches. Call us or send us an email, that is what we are here for.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
11-13-2006, 12:18 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Textralia
Ok, first off to anyone who ever has an issue with one of our clutches. Call us or send us an email, that is what we are here for.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
Textralia is awesome. Its this kind of support that made me a lifetime customer. Textralia>*.*
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11-13-2006, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Textralia
Ok, first off to anyone who ever has an issue with one of our clutches. Call us or send us an email, that is what we are here for.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
Look, I can only speak for Textralia, but our main focus is on making sure our customers are satisfied 100% with our product. If you have a problem, then WE have a problem, and WE want to make sure its resolved.
SSwanner, vibration is not something I would expect from a slave. But, when it comes to bleeding our recommendation is that you follow this process for bleeding.
First off we don't recommend a Mitivac as some folks pull too much vaccum, and invert the seals.
Secondly, we don't recommned that you pump and hold the pedal down, as that does not move fluid or air out of the system. The best way we've found to bleed a system is to have someone help you, and have one person crack the bleeder screw. Have a person in the car depress the pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor. Have the person under the car close the bleeder screw. This will displace a much larger volume of fluid than pumping and holding it to the floor. If you follow this procedure 4-6 times the system should be completely bled as if memory serves me each "pump" moves about 10CC of fluid.
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
thanks man. i called the US # yesterday and twice today (yes i left a message and return #).
i didn't use the mityvac to bleed it first. i had a buddy helping and we did what you reccomended. it worked fine. i just hooked the mityvac up after bleeding (on the last occation) to make sure air was not an option.
anyway, if you didn't get any of the messages for some reason please call me @ 601-938-1699
thanks, Jeff
11-13-2006, 09:20 PM
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just got off the phone with peter. all i can say is AWESOME customer service!!!!! i think he/we have found what the problem is and how to fix it!
11-14-2006, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BirdmanLS1
Awesome to see this... Makes me even more excited to get my textralia!!
yea man, peter said even if it was/is my fault they were going to take care of me. now i know why i went with textralia
11-16-2006, 10:10 AM
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it started as the mcleod m/c over extended the fingers on the pp, as they got weak it got worse. i cant figure out why but the pp bolts were all a little loose too, i installed them as directed to but they had started backing out. i should have it back together by this weekend so we will see how it goes
11-16-2006, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Textralia
None the less, you have an issue, and that is 100% unacceptable to us. Please get in touch with us so we can go through your issues and make sure your car is 100%.
And THAT is exactly why I am going with a Textralia clutch when I remove this POS LS7 unit this winter.
11-16-2006, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SSwanner
it started as the mcleod m/c over extended the fingers on the pp, as they got weak it got worse. i cant figure out why but the pp bolts were all a little loose too, i installed them as directed to but they had started backing out. i should have it back together by this weekend so we will see how it goes
Customer service is one of the reasons I went with Tex...just hope I never have to use it.
11-16-2006, 09:08 PM
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Yea I have a Tex... in my 02 Procharged T/A. I have 550 or so on the clutch and the last 150 were to Montgomery to race and back. I had no problems doing 5500 clutch dumps and pedal feel is great compaired to the Spec 3 that was in the car. I plan to put many miles and track passes on it and from what I here I made the right decision on whith clutch to go with.