jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

My car is giving me some strange problems lately. Today when I went to leave my apartment & I started to drive forward in first, the rpms just started to drop and the car almost died so I had to put the clutch back in. I revved to the same rpms I always do when taking off in first. I tried it again with more rpms and the same thing happened. So I put it in reverse and backed up to my parking spot and then turned off the a/c and tried to go forward again and it was fine. I don't see how the a/c would affect it so maybe it was because I reversed somehow. It's like the car just started freezing up for some reason. Also yesterday it was raining & it was my first time to drive this car in the rain. When I left the second time that day, it felt like first gear was slipping really bad for a few seconds, and then all the sudden the car just shot forward. I'm guessing the clutch had just gotten wet and needed to dry?
I have an Oz700 clutch, new slave, and pilot bearing on the way. I'm hoping that will take car of whatever is going on. At the moment I'm planning on also giving the tranny to t56 rebuilds since they aren't far from me & because second gear occasionally grinds and pops out of gear. Do you think my first problem was coming from the tranny too?
-chris

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

Doubt its a wet clutch. There's really no way for a significant amount of water to get in the bellhousing unless you've got a crack or a whole. Is the current clutch slipping in 6th low rpm, low speed, full throttle acceleration?

Have you done anything else to the car recently? Maybe a binding brake caliper? I don't think it was the AC, but if the compressor is siezing up it's possible (but unlikey) to stall the engine. You'd usually hear some decent belt squeel if this was the case.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

As strange as this may sound, with it having been wet, isn't is possible that you had a caliper just rust itself to the rotor. This would lead to the feeling of bogging followed by the instant release. As a side note perhaps you are seeing two issues. Perhaps the slippage was just that...slippage--made more noticible by the cars seeming inability to initially move forward. Just a thaught or two. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

well today it hasn't rained at all but when I left my place today, it did the same thing again at first where even though I was giving it plenty of gas on take off, the rpms would just start to drop to nothing. Finally when I got moving, it did the shoot forward thing a few times in first and once in second gear. Maybe it wasn't the smartest thing but I decided to check to see if the limited slip was good in this car so I tried to do a 5 second burnout and everything was fine at first but then the rpms just started to drop to almost nothing so I had to put the clutch in really quick before the car started jerking around. At least I found out the limited slip works fine though!
I know the brakes are worn bad and I'm picking up some new pads today. I have new rotors in the mail too so hopefully I can change them out this weekend. I'll try to give Young a call tonight or tomorrow if I can. I'm in between classes right now.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I assume that you don't have line lock correct? As a side note the clutch can't load the motor on its own...something is causing increased parasitic drag. Not sure...this is an interesting one...keep us updated on the issue as you have more time to drive it.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

okay it can't be the clutch. I think whoever said it was the a/c is right. I was leaving today with the a/c on and it was doing the same popping forward thing and then I stopped at a red light with the clutch pedal depressed, and the rpms started dropping and the car started to shake a little, so i immediately turned off the a/c and the shaking stopped. I guess I had the a/c on when I did the short burnout, WOOPS!!!
Well this kinda sucks now because it's soo hot here in Texas and I'm gonna have to go at least a week without the a/c before I can put it in the shop.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

yup, it's gotta be. thanks for the help

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

two days ago I started hearing belt squeal when the a/c was on. I just thought it needed a new belt and maybe some adjusting

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

Well I'm so confused now. Maybe it's not the a/c. I left just a second ago and I had just the fans running, not the a/c but the car still had the hesitation and the engine almost died on take off. It wasn't nearly as bad as before but that could be because I was only parked for 5 minutes. The car only seems to do the drop in rpms on take off whenever I first leave to go somewhere. After about a minute, it no longer does it.

Could the bad a/c still somehow have caused this or is this starting to look like maybe the tranny or the rearend are locking up?? This sucks!

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

okay i let the car sit a few hours and when I left with the a/c off, it tried to die and then shoot forward more than ever. It finally set of a SES light and then it drove fine the rest of the way home.

I checked the codes with my scanner and I got

P0122 Throttle position sensor A circuit low input
P0300 Random Multiple Cycle, misfire detected.

I'm not sure what the first means. Do I need a new sensor & which sensor is A? I'm gonna check it to make sure it's plugged in securly and everything first.

Also I'm not sure why the misfire went off with it but I did seafoam the car last weekend and was planning on changing the plugs & wires this weekend. Hopefully I can get this fixed.

Also the belt squeal with the a/c on is a more of a metal squeaking sound, not sure if that's the same as squeal

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

The random misfire code is not supposed to set if the P0122 code is set. Also, the A/C clutch cycling will prevent this code from testing. I've seen this on a couple cars due to plugs and wires being loose/worn or plugged fuel filters.

Check this out for the full story:
http://gearchatter.com/viewtopic9033...859f807aa92fbe

If it were me I'd start by replacing the plugs and wires and putting a new fuel filter on it. The surging you're describing sounds like a plugged filter, and if you're getting a misfire on all cylinders fuel starvation is a likely culprit.


As for the P0122 I suspect it may clear up after you clear the P0300 FWIW:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewpost13125.php

Basically the PCM is seeing a voltage too low from the TPS with the throttle closed. Have you taken off the bellows, lid, MAF or throttle body recently? Made any changes to the throttle body? Are the screws holding the TPS in place secure? Is the connector to the TPS clean and intact? Is the wiring leading to the TPS secured and routed away from the coil packs or other sources of possible inductive voltage changes?

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

Wow, thanks for all the info man! If it doesn't rain today, I will be changing the plugs, wires, fuel filter. And yes, I did just install a ported/polished throttle body a little over a week ago. Does this mean I just need to open the throttle body up a little more? The wiring looks like it's out of the way. I put the bolts on so I know they aren't loose but I checked anyway. I'm gonna get some contact cleaner and spray the connectors too

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

No problem, glad to help. A lot of people grind down the end stop when they port and polish the TB. If they got too agressive I would think this might cause the TPS low voltage, not sure on that. Sure way is to check the the voltages with a multimeter. I think the grey wire on the TPS should read .4 with the throttle closed. (?) Let us know after the fuel filter, plugs and wires.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Great thinking Mike...this is why forums are a great place to interact. Lots of folks with different experiences sharing what they have learned.

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

The metal sound with the A/C on isn't good either, probably have a bad compressor or clutch i was thinking at first that possibly the A/C compressor itself was starting to lock up resulting in your power loss.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

I put on some new Gates belts and all the squeaking is gone. I think the old belts were the originals and were stretched out too much.

Mike, so you think I should check the voltage on the grey wire? I need to find out which wire it is because I tightened the throttle set screw a little, cleared the codes, changed the fuel filter to a Napa Gold and it was fine when I first drove around the block, but the next time I left, the same crap happened again.

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

It was the blue wire. I checked and the voltag was .52v I raised it up to .61v and did the idle relearn and everything has been fine! I can't believe something as little as the tb blade closing too far could make a car drive so bad, assuming that was the main culprit involved

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

Ugh, the problem is back!!! I'm out of ideas now. I checked the throttle position sensor and the voltage was reading .615 volts so I know that isn't the main problem anymore. THIS SUCKS

I've decided to wait a week before changing the plugs and wires. I'm dropping my car off Monday the 14th at Conley's Performance for the new clutch, tranny rebuild, headers, and an x-pipe. They will have to pull the plugs anyway for the header install so I'm just gonna let them do it. Hopefully, they can figure out why my car is acting so dumb. Could old gas cause this by any chance??? I did have the a/c on but I heard no belt squeal with the new belts, and like I said before, this has happened to me with the a/c off too. Maybe old gasoline??

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

If your blue wire isn't raising all the way to more than 4v there's a problem with the TPS or the circuit leading up to it. As you cycle the throttle from closed to wide open check the blue wire for a raise to over 4v. The grey wire should drop to less than 1v. The black wire should have continuity to ground. The previous text was for a 2000, this link is for a 2002, but they're essentially the same.

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9381.php

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

I will have to check that. Unfortunately, I won't be back home from school until next Thursday. I found a sort of temporary fix for now. I start the car, put it in neutral, and rev up to about 2,000 rpm. After a second or two, the engine was start dropping to around 500rpm so I'll give it more gas and it will fluctuate the smallest bit and I'll just kinda mess with the throttle a little until the rpms go back to where they should be & then I know I can leave without all the bucking and hopping and what not. I do want to say though that as the engine rpms drop to 500rpm, the shifter starts to shake pretty bad too so I guess the whole engine is shaking. I'm really hoping if it's not the TPS that it's bad spark plugs.