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Sticking clutch pedal write-up
01-25-2014, 09:20 PM
#161
I'm no expert, but if you search on here all the threads on your problem which has been alot of others same problem,as well as mine, it will help you.
The Tick speed bleeder is used if you have to pull your tranny to get to the clutch. It allows you to bleed your clutch by yourself. Well worth the $50. Goggle it or look on the sponsors on here web site.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Not everyone has the leaks, but if you look where the MC hooks at your pedal and under your tranny you will see an opening. Look where you park your car.
Sorry, JonB for jacking your thread.
The Tick speed bleeder is used if you have to pull your tranny to get to the clutch. It allows you to bleed your clutch by yourself. Well worth the $50. Goggle it or look on the sponsors on here web site.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Not everyone has the leaks, but if you look where the MC hooks at your pedal and under your tranny you will see an opening. Look where you park your car.
Sorry, JonB for jacking your thread.
First I want to know whether the OEM new master and slave cylinders I bought are not solving the problem? and that it might be that bleeding is not done properly or there might be a leak?
I read a lot that people are using Tick products and not OEM parts. So I am suspecting I shouldn't have bought the OEM master and slave!!
01-25-2014, 10:18 PM
#162
TECH Fanatic
I am a bit confused.
First I want to know whether the OEM new master and slave cylinders I bought are not solving the problem? and that it might be that bleeding is not done properly or there might be a leak?
I read a lot that people are using Tick products and not OEM parts. So I am suspecting I shouldn't have bought the OEM master and slave!!
First I want to know whether the OEM new master and slave cylinders I bought are not solving the problem? and that it might be that bleeding is not done properly or there might be a leak?
I read a lot that people are using Tick products and not OEM parts. So I am suspecting I shouldn't have bought the OEM master and slave!!
Then he suggested about still having air in the line. This has been discussed alot, having air still in the system. The bleeder helps to get it out if you can't get the air out. It's a 1 man job with the bleeder.
My 4 day old new OEM master starting leaking, so look for signs of leaking.
As said by someone else, it doesn't sound like any clutch issue. I would make sure I have someone helping to get the air out to make sure that's not the only problem you have before you rule out the new Master.
01-25-2014, 10:46 PM
#163
Thanks, I didn't even realize the date!
Look back on page 8 I believe when SNLPerformance, asked you if you installed the speed bleeder? I don't think you do.He also asked if you have any signs of leaks?
Then he suggested about still having air in the line. This has been discussed alot, having air still in the system. The bleeder helps to get it out if you can't get the air out. It's a 1 man job with the bleeder.
My 4 day old new OEM master starting leaking, so look for signs of leaking.
As said by someone else, it doesn't sound like any clutch issue. I would make sure I have someone helping to get the air out to make sure that's not the only problem you have before you rule out the new Master.
Look back on page 8 I believe when SNLPerformance, asked you if you installed the speed bleeder? I don't think you do.He also asked if you have any signs of leaks?
Then he suggested about still having air in the line. This has been discussed alot, having air still in the system. The bleeder helps to get it out if you can't get the air out. It's a 1 man job with the bleeder.
My 4 day old new OEM master starting leaking, so look for signs of leaking.
As said by someone else, it doesn't sound like any clutch issue. I would make sure I have someone helping to get the air out to make sure that's not the only problem you have before you rule out the new Master.
If that doesnt help then you think I need to replace the OEM MC which I still even didn't drive on it?
In that sense the new OEM slave cylinder I bought doesnt need replacing?
01-25-2014, 11:08 PM
#164
TECH Fanatic
The speed bleeder gets installed when the tranny comes out.
Like I said, my new OEM Master was new and never used other than bleeding my clutch. I had mine for 4 days, and it was trashed.
You have to get the air out. I think I bled using 1 pint to get my air out.But I have the speed bleeder.
Your mechanic I would think would know where to look for leaks, and he should tell you if the MC or slave is leaking or needs to be replaced.
Like I said, my new OEM Master was new and never used other than bleeding my clutch. I had mine for 4 days, and it was trashed.
You have to get the air out. I think I bled using 1 pint to get my air out.But I have the speed bleeder.
Your mechanic I would think would know where to look for leaks, and he should tell you if the MC or slave is leaking or needs to be replaced.
01-26-2014, 12:03 AM
#165
The speed bleeder gets installed when the tranny comes out.
Like I said, my new OEM Master was new and never used other than bleeding my clutch. I had mine for 4 days, and it was trashed.
You have to get the air out. I think I bled using 1 pint to get my air out.But I have the speed bleeder.
Your mechanic I would think would know where to look for leaks, and he should tell you if the MC or slave is leaking or needs to be replaced.
Like I said, my new OEM Master was new and never used other than bleeding my clutch. I had mine for 4 days, and it was trashed.
You have to get the air out. I think I bled using 1 pint to get my air out.But I have the speed bleeder.
Your mechanic I would think would know where to look for leaks, and he should tell you if the MC or slave is leaking or needs to be replaced.
So I guess I have no option but to replace the new OEM MC
Since everyone is using Tick and are quite happy I will go for Tick.
thanks for the help.
01-26-2014, 08:47 AM
#166
TECH Fanatic
Keep us posted. It helps when people do searches. Just hope it fixes your problem. It fixed mine.
02-02-2014, 10:50 PM
#167
problem solved. It was a bleeding issue. It wasn't being done properly but now it's ok.
I didn't have to replace the OEM new MC. But I would guess even my old MC and SC were ok but was only a bleeding issue.
Clutch feels better than before.
To summerize:
Here is what I did to fix the sticking pedal issue.
-new fluid
-new OEM master and slave
we did bleeding after every step so I guess it was a bleeding issue from the beginning but I ended up replacing the master and slave
I didn't have to replace the OEM new MC. But I would guess even my old MC and SC were ok but was only a bleeding issue.
Clutch feels better than before.
To summerize:
Here is what I did to fix the sticking pedal issue.
-new fluid
-new OEM master and slave
we did bleeding after every step so I guess it was a bleeding issue from the beginning but I ended up replacing the master and slave
03-18-2014, 03:08 AM
#169
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pedal sticking on high rpm JonB,
I have a 2005 GTO .. headers and a tune. My car has 20,000 miles on it and had been sitting for a few years. I changed out the Clutch fluid and the
the OEM clutch has less than 10,000 miles on it (was replaced by GM in first
three years).
I changed out all the fluids including the manual clutch fluid. The fluid I changed out was tar black ... the clutch was not giving me major problems.
Now it is failing to cooperate on high revs .. when I shift in high rpm the
pedal is like mush and I cannot put it in gear.
I have a C7 clutch and fly wheel ready to be put in, but I don't want to waste
$$ on putting in a clutch and having the same problem. The clutch fluid in
the resivor is black as tar again with fine lumps of debris in it.
Since you and xtremejimmy are both in Florida, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction to have someone do the work correctly.
you can PM me and let me know or contact me at MiamiNiceShy guy ..
which is my hotmail account ... just let me know where to go where I will
get the work done right and not get ripped off .. royal .. thanks
I have a 2005 GTO .. headers and a tune. My car has 20,000 miles on it and had been sitting for a few years. I changed out the Clutch fluid and the
the OEM clutch has less than 10,000 miles on it (was replaced by GM in first
three years).
I changed out all the fluids including the manual clutch fluid. The fluid I changed out was tar black ... the clutch was not giving me major problems.
Now it is failing to cooperate on high revs .. when I shift in high rpm the
pedal is like mush and I cannot put it in gear.
I have a C7 clutch and fly wheel ready to be put in, but I don't want to waste
$$ on putting in a clutch and having the same problem. The clutch fluid in
the resivor is black as tar again with fine lumps of debris in it.
Since you and xtremejimmy are both in Florida, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction to have someone do the work correctly.
you can PM me and let me know or contact me at MiamiNiceShy guy ..
which is my hotmail account ... just let me know where to go where I will
get the work done right and not get ripped off .. royal .. thanks
We've got some new info as of 7/14/07 gm acknowledges degraded clutch fluid causes pedal woes.
Originally Posted by Ken Fichtner;1561070929
Document ID# 1982105
Subject: Intermittent Spongy Clutch Pedal Sticking To The Floor During Hard Acceleration And High RPM Shifts - keywords contaminate fluid hydraulic #PIP4145 - (06/04/2007)
Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Corvette, Corvette Z06 Equipped with a Tremec 6-speed Transmission RPO MM6, MZ6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment about an intermittent spongy clutch pedal feel or clutch pedal sticking to the floor. This may be aggravated by aggressive driving and high clutch operating temperatures. Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil. The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when these conditions are present the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the above condition is intermittent flush the hydraulic system using DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada), prior to replacement of any mechanical or hydraulic components.
To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system.
The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level. Avoid removing the cap. Do not remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed. During PDI inspection or routine servicing the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.
DOT 4 clutch fluid has a 2 week shelf life. Do not use fluid if container opening date is unknown or older than 2 weeks. Do not mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.
To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every 2 calendar years. Please flush and replace the clutch fluid with P/N 88958860 (88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4.
The current service information and owners manual will be updated to reflect this information.
Note: If the concern is not intermittent, inspect clutch hydraulic system for leaks and repair as necessary after repairs are completed flush system with DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada).
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Thanks to Ranger for coming across some more great info.
Originally Posted by Ken Fichtner;1561070929
Document ID# 1982105
Subject: Intermittent Spongy Clutch Pedal Sticking To The Floor During Hard Acceleration And High RPM Shifts - keywords contaminate fluid hydraulic #PIP4145 - (06/04/2007)
Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Corvette, Corvette Z06 Equipped with a Tremec 6-speed Transmission RPO MM6, MZ6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment about an intermittent spongy clutch pedal feel or clutch pedal sticking to the floor. This may be aggravated by aggressive driving and high clutch operating temperatures. Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil. The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when these conditions are present the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the above condition is intermittent flush the hydraulic system using DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada), prior to replacement of any mechanical or hydraulic components.
To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system.
The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level. Avoid removing the cap. Do not remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed. During PDI inspection or routine servicing the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.
DOT 4 clutch fluid has a 2 week shelf life. Do not use fluid if container opening date is unknown or older than 2 weeks. Do not mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.
To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every 2 calendar years. Please flush and replace the clutch fluid with P/N 88958860 (88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4.
The current service information and owners manual will be updated to reflect this information.
Note: If the concern is not intermittent, inspect clutch hydraulic system for leaks and repair as necessary after repairs are completed flush system with DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada).
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Thanks to Ranger for coming across some more great info.
03-20-2014, 03:13 PM
#170
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Clutch Fluid ... like wine .. red or white ... done the cheapest ... pay cash and all ... (Anyone know a place where they work on Vettes .. GTOs and other GM Muscle? T-56 six speed specialists?)
Here is my situation. I may need to buy a
"GM LS V8 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT w/ 04-UP T56 & TR6060 6-SPEED - 23" LINE" off Flee (E) Bay for $260 because mine is clogged.
I have read that you can use dot 4 brake fluid which is white instead of
the RED manual transmission fluid. I took my car in and the mechanic
looked at me like I was nutz when I said this. So we put in four bottles of
Pennzoil red after he bleed out the perfectly clear Pennzoil red and put in
four new bottles .. each bottle contains 32 oz.
When I got home I took off the cap .. next to the brake fluid ... which is
hopefully where the manual transmission fluid goes. It was nasty black
with bits of what I believe was clumps of black clutch dust.
This shows that the passage way is clogged.
I cleaned it out and put in dot 4 brake fluid inside ... now if it was mixing
at all with the Pennzoil it would have turned red, so obviously it was not
and yes I pushed in the clutch 30 times .. bla bla.
I have 128 oz of Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid (32 oz.)
four bottles. On a 2005 GTO it takes five minutes to do .. I just do not have
the hex tool, and wanted a pro to do it.
My question is this. If my car where jacked up , front in the air ... I think I
might be able to put in a bottle or two of more of the synchromesh in there.
Would the extra fluid tend to keep the temperature down, would it cause
any problems ...
if I put more fluid in? Is this a cheap fix? .. any comments welcome ..
06-01-2014, 07:38 PM
#172
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Mines sticking to the floor and not coming back up whatsoever, and I seem to be plagued by eternal air bubbles. Using the mityvac we were out there bleeding it for an hour and a half, tons of air bubbles came up, even took a video of them pouring out, but no improvement in the clutch.
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
06-01-2014, 07:44 PM
#173
Mines sticking to the floor and not coming back up whatsoever, and I seem to be plagued by eternal air bubbles. Using the mityvac we were out there bleeding it for an hour and a half, tons of air bubbles came up, even took a video of them pouring out, but no improvement in the clutch.
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
06-02-2014, 05:44 PM
#174
Mines sticking to the floor and not coming back up whatsoever, and I seem to be plagued by eternal air bubbles. Using the mityvac we were out there bleeding it for an hour and a half, tons of air bubbles came up, even took a video of them pouring out, but no improvement in the clutch.
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
The clutch grabs like a monster but the pedal is still sticking to the floor, it happens every single time and sticks all the way to the bottom and has made the car undriveable
Should be noted that the fluid level in the resevoir was right the first time I checked it, and it hasnt gone down since, any ideas on the eternal air bubbles?
06-08-2014, 07:29 PM
#177
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Well it wasn't the master cylinder. Ended up taking it to a shop since I live in an apartment complex, they're going to be putting in a slave for me. Asked him to take the clutch out while the trans was down so I could get it resurfaced, and it was of course covered in brake fluid. Also going to be putting in a new throwout bearing while its there.
06-12-2014, 10:18 PM
#178
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Good news! A whole bunch of money later the pedal is back! Slave cylinder busted as aforementioned, and it also decided to spew a bunch of brake fluid all over the clutch and flywheel. Luckily theres a little clutch shop in town here that resurfaced the clutch and flywheel and put brand new friction pads on the clutch for just $80. Clutch grabs like a monster, and shes on the road again!
Just a note, the mityvac method of bleeding the system worked wonders for me. I got one for $30 from autozone and it works really well.
Just a note, the mityvac method of bleeding the system worked wonders for me. I got one for $30 from autozone and it works really well.
05-29-2016, 07:35 AM
#179
I've got a question for you guys.
I am running a 99 LS/t56 out of a TA. I believe my hydraulic clutch system is a stock one and has not been replaced.
I did the drill mod, and bled the system with the mity vac. Now during repeated high rpm shifts, say 1-3 gear, it doesn't seem like the clutch is grabbing. When I hit 3rd it acts like the pedal is still pushed in. If I give it a couple seconds then the clutch returns to normal operation.
Shifting into gear has never been a problem always smooth. I figured the drill mod would have taken care of it, but it seems it didn't. I am sure all the air in the system is removed and also the clutch fluid is not dark. Just replaced it. I also do not see any leaks in the system.
What should I look to try next?
I am running a 99 LS/t56 out of a TA. I believe my hydraulic clutch system is a stock one and has not been replaced.
I did the drill mod, and bled the system with the mity vac. Now during repeated high rpm shifts, say 1-3 gear, it doesn't seem like the clutch is grabbing. When I hit 3rd it acts like the pedal is still pushed in. If I give it a couple seconds then the clutch returns to normal operation.
Shifting into gear has never been a problem always smooth. I figured the drill mod would have taken care of it, but it seems it didn't. I am sure all the air in the system is removed and also the clutch fluid is not dark. Just replaced it. I also do not see any leaks in the system.
What should I look to try next?
06-02-2016, 12:21 PM
#180
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I've got a question for you guys.
I am running a 99 LS/t56 out of a TA. I believe my hydraulic clutch system is a stock one and has not been replaced.
I did the drill mod, and bled the system with the mity vac. Now during repeated high rpm shifts, say 1-3 gear, it doesn't seem like the clutch is grabbing. When I hit 3rd it acts like the pedal is still pushed in. If I give it a couple seconds then the clutch returns to normal operation.
Shifting into gear has never been a problem always smooth. I figured the drill mod would have taken care of it, but it seems it didn't. I am sure all the air in the system is removed and also the clutch fluid is not dark. Just replaced it. I also do not see any leaks in the system.
What should I look to try next?
I am running a 99 LS/t56 out of a TA. I believe my hydraulic clutch system is a stock one and has not been replaced.
I did the drill mod, and bled the system with the mity vac. Now during repeated high rpm shifts, say 1-3 gear, it doesn't seem like the clutch is grabbing. When I hit 3rd it acts like the pedal is still pushed in. If I give it a couple seconds then the clutch returns to normal operation.
Shifting into gear has never been a problem always smooth. I figured the drill mod would have taken care of it, but it seems it didn't. I am sure all the air in the system is removed and also the clutch fluid is not dark. Just replaced it. I also do not see any leaks in the system.
What should I look to try next?
Probably just time to replace your clutch and flywheel.