s7ven

I'm currently in the process of installing a drive shaft safety loop. I got under the car yesterday to unbolt the tunnel brace and I find out that the previous owner must have removed it. Since I have no tunnel brace I also don't have bolts so I ordered 4 - M8-1.25 x 30mm class 10.9 flange bolts from Fastenal hoping that they will work.

My issue now is that there looks to be a piece of metal welded over top of the passenger side mount location. I'm guessing the previous owner had either weld-in SFCs or weld-in TA/DSL. Only one side of the metal plate is welded so I'm able to pry one side up with a screw driver but the other side is still pretty solid. So what is the best way to remove/work around this? I've come up with the following solutions but not sure which one is the best:

• Cut the weld - I have a dremel...not sure if it could get the job done though?
• Re-drill holes in the plate - There are holes in that welded plate but they are off by about 1/4". I'm a little afraid of messing up the threads by drilling.
• Pry the weld until it becomes fatigued and breaks - it's hard to get leverage for this under the car.

Here is a picture of what I'm working with:

Sickness7

Pick up a cheap die grinder and buy a 1 and a half inch cutting disc attachment probably the safest way to just get the weld.

s7ven

Okay, so you don't think my Dremel could get the job done? I would just hate to buy two tools serving the same function if the one I already have can do the job.

Also have an angle grinder if that will work.

N20zuki

A dremel doesn't do the same thing as a cutoff wheel, ones extreme light duty and one is mild duty. A dremel would be a joke to try to cut anything that is structural or welded. Tractor supply and Harbor freight have cutoff wheels for like 25$. Next question is do you have a compressor?

td1168

iTrader: (2)

As thin as that piece is just take a 4 1/2" electric hand grinder and grind it off. Just hold the grinding wheel flat to the surface and grind heavier at the weld. You'll have it off in 5 minutes. Just make sure you wear good eye protection.

s7ven

Sorry for stupid questions but could I just put a grinding wheel on my 120V electric angle grinder and use that? Currently I've got a cutting wheel on there. Will definitely have safety glasses on.

No compressor . Thank you for the clarification though, that makes sense.

The closest TSC or Harbor Freight is an hour from me so I'm hoping I can just use my angle grinder.

reinhardt02

The grinder you have will work fine. Get a face shield though. Being under the car, **** will fly everywhere. Believe me, hot grinding dust in the eye is no fun. Be careful not to grind on the bracket of the vehicle, it is thin and the grinder will go through it quick and easy.

s7ven

Thanks for all the help guys. I got some time today to break out the angle grinder, not sure if my disc was shitty but it took quite a while to get through the weld. Then again, it was kind of an awkward position and hard to get leverage.

What I ended up doing was grinding along the weld seam until it was very thin and then I fatigued until it broke by bending it back and forth. I cleaned up the bracket face with the grinder afterwards. Turned out pretty well and I got my DSL on.

Also, just in case anyone ever needs the bolts for the tunnel brace, the bolts I ordered worked perfectly. (see 1st post)