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Shifting problems(all RPMs)

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Old 09-30-2013, 02:18 PM
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Default Shifting problems(all RPMs)

I just recently purchased a 2000 SS and am having some issues with the 6 speed being very difficult to shift. The car is stock and only has around 76000 miles on it. I have already changed the master cylinder and flushed the fluids and have read about the drill mod. My problem, however, is not limited to high RPM so I don't feel that drill mod/Tick cylinder will be a solution.

Normal driving is somewhat difficult as it feels like the shifter is being prevented from entering gears. There is no grinding and it does not pop out of gear though. It just feels like the shifter is being blocked. My hand actually slips off the shifter sometimes because of how tight shifting is. I was thinking about changing out to something like a Hurst short throw but want to get a second opinion on what my issue is before I spend money on something and it not help the situation.
Old 09-30-2013, 04:44 PM
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Well, you did the basics. Bleeding it and then changing the Master. Like you said I wouldn't worry about the drill mod, to be honest I don't think the drill mod does much for anyone. The possbility of every single gear in the tranny being bad is next to none. My best guesses are...

-It hasn't been bled good enough. (unlikely but still possible)

-The slave is bad. Even though it isn't externally leaking, it can leak internally and be failing. Basically when you push the clutch pedal in and the master forces the fluid into the slave, there is possibly bleed by internally and the throw out bearing isn't extending far enough to completely disengage the pressure plate and fully release the clutch disc.

-Has it done this ever since you've had the car? If it has an aftermarket clutch that needed a shim behind the slave and a shim wasn't installed, the throw out bearing can't extend far enough to release the clutch disc all the way.

If I were you I'd go do the "rev test". Get the car out to some flat ground and come to a stop. Push your clutch pedal in and put the car in first gear. While still pushing the clutch pedal all the way in, slowly rev the engine all the way to redline. If the throwout bearing is indeed not releasing the clutch disc all the way the car should start to creep forward as you approach redline. This would indicate the problem is with the hydrualics and not the transmission.

If you do end up needing to replace the slave and want to do it yourself, you can reference my install video as a visual aid as well as the writeup on LS1howto.com. Personally I HATE dropping the tranny, I'm just sick of it. If I was in your situation, instead of dropping the tranny to replace the slave that "might" fix the problem, I'd buy an adjustable master cylinder. The adjustable master will give you the option to extend the throw out bearing further to fully disengage the clutch disc. If you don't want to shell out the $325 for the Tick unit, I know Spec sells a stock master cylinder that's adjustable for $175. Might be worth looking into. After all that if it still was giving you trouble, then I'd drop the tranny and replace the slave.


Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 09-30-2013 at 04:55 PM.
Old 09-30-2013, 05:05 PM
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If you pump the clutch pedal, does it get easier to shift?

Try pumping it 10-15 times as quick as you can then on the 10th or 15th hold it down and try to shift. If its easier its a hydraulic issue. Most likely air in the system.

What clutch? How long has it been doing this? When did it start? When replacing the Master how did you bleed it?



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