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I've even encountered some M6 guys that have had issues with this, and their idle speed is considerably higher at 800rpm (vs 650/550 P/D for the auto). I'd just suggest to anyone thinking about this modification to do a little reading and be prepared either way, as there are definitely some people who have had idle charging issues, even with otherwise healthy alternators. I had an ASP crank pulley once, about a decade ago, and sold it for this very reason.
Originally Posted by ragtopz28
The car pulls pretty good being stone stock...be glad you didn't have the 2.73 gears.
After having had two of each, there isn't much actual difference in performance between the two ratios. Higher numeric gears *feel* stronger, but ratio increases of this size don't translate into much actual performance difference with the internal gear ratios of a 4L60E. This becomes even more true once you have a 3500+ stall speed in place. For example, if you are going from 2.73 to 3.73 with a stock stall speed, you might see about 0.3-0.4 seconds of ET reduction (provided you have proper tires). With a 3500+ stall speed already in place (which by itself will likely knock about 0.7-1.0 seconds off your ET), that same 2.73 to 3.73 swap will only be worth about 0.1-0.15 seconds. 2.73 to 3.23, with the stock stall, is worth maybe 0.1-0.2 seconds at best, and with a 3500 stall it's worth about 0.05-.10 at most.
The tighter street feel of higher numeric gear ratios will make you think they've given you a huge ET advantage, but in reality the gains are normally much smaller than you'd think for ratios between 2.73 and 3.73. This is less true with older cars that use auto transmissions with less aggressive internal 1st gear ratios (such as TH350/400 at 2.48/2.52, vs. the 4L60/4L60E at 3.06).
Originally Posted by Uziguy18
Are those the best field result stalls?
Ragtopz28 also suggested the yank.
And I'm sorry..... What's lca's? I just woke up and that's the excuse I'm going with.
For converter brand, I would personally suggest Yank or Precision Industries (PI). 3500-4000rpm actual stall speed will be an excellent balance of performance and streetability. Depending on which cam you choose, you may want a bit more stall speed, but most mild or mid-range cams will do great with a stall in that range. Even a stock cam will want at least a 3500 stall speed for best results.
LCA = Lower Control Arms. The stock rear LCAs are often replaced with stronger units using stiffer bushings to help with wheel hop and traction issues.
I've even encountered some M6 guys that have had issues with this, and their idle speed is considerably higher at 800rpm (vs 650/550 P/D for the auto). I'd just suggest to anyone thinking about this modification to do a little reading and be prepared either way, as there are definitely some people who have had idle charging issues, even with otherwise healthy alternators. I had an ASP crank pulley once, about a decade ago, and sold it for this very reason.
After having had two of each, there isn't much actual difference in performance between the two ratios. Higher numeric gears *feel* stronger, but ratio increases of this size don't translate into much actual performance difference with the internal gear ratios of a 4L60E. This becomes even more true once you have a 3500+ stall speed in place. For example, if you are going from 2.73 to 3.73 with a stock stall speed, you might see about 0.3-0.4 seconds of ET reduction (provided you have proper tires). With a 3500+ stall speed already in place (which by itself will likely knock about 0.7-1.0 seconds off your ET), that same 2.73 to 3.73 swap will only be worth about 0.1-0.15 seconds. 2.73 to 3.23, with the stock stall, is worth maybe 0.1-0.2 seconds at best, and with a 3500 stall it's worth about 0.05-.10 at most.
The tighter street feel of higher numeric gear ratios will make you think they've given you a huge ET advantage, but in reality the gains are normally much smaller than you'd think for ratios between 2.73 and 3.73. This is less true with older cars that use auto transmissions with less aggressive internal 1st gear ratios (such as TH350/400 at 2.48/2.52, vs. the 4L60/4L60E at 3.06).
For converter brand, I would personally suggest Yank or Precision Industries (PI). 3500-4000rpm actual stall speed will be an excellent balance of performance and streetability. Depending on which cam you choose, you may want a bit more stall speed, but most mild or mid-range cams will do great with a stall in that range. Even a stock cam will want at least a 3500 stall speed for best results.
LCA = Lower Control Arms. The stock rear LCAs are often replaced with stronger units using stiffer bushings to help with wheel hop and traction issues.
Any particular brand for the lca?
And I want to say right now I idle at 800rpms at a red light if I understand you correctly.
Now with cam for daily should I stay around 228
Or how high could I go and still have a good daily driver.
I want something mainly for street driving. i assume Id want more low end torque and power then high end.
I've been trying to read as many threads as I can for Cams.
also,id get LTs over mids.especially since youre getting a cam.
I'm not pushing the MAC mids on the OP (OP is on a tight budget and they will suit his needs for now). Those mids served me well as my car made 420 motor and 540 rwhp on the juice with a cam only (BTR III). I would always recommend LT's over mids (but where else can you get headers, ORY, and flowmaster merge for $200). FWIW I went with 1 7/8" and true 3" to the cut-out and picked up very little in the upper rpm/WOT.
I'm not pushing the MAC mids on the OP (OP is on a tight budget and they will suit his needs for now). Those mids served me well as my car made 420 motor and 540 rwhp on the juice with a cam only (BTR III). I would always recommend LT's over mids (but where else can you get headers, ORY, and flowmaster merge for $200). FWIW I went with 1 7/8" and true 3" to the cut-out and picked up very little in the upper rpm/WOT.
thats cool but if i was him id skip a cam for now and get LTs.
dont want to kill your sale though lol.
I'm not pushing the MAC mids on the OP (OP is on a tight budget and they will suit his needs for now). Those mids served me well as my car made 420 motor and 540 rwhp on the juice with a cam only (BTR III). I would always recommend LT's over mids (but where else can you get headers, ORY, and flowmaster merge for $200). FWIW I went with 1 7/8" and true 3" to the cut-out and picked up very little in the upper rpm/WOT.
also,your car runs strong and thanks for the compliment earlier. i dont know all that much lol.
And I want to say right now I idle at 800rpms at a red light if I understand you correctly.
Unless the car has already been custom tuned for a higher idle rpm, or something is wrong causing the idle to stick at that rpm, then this is not your actual idle speed. The factory tune for every LS1 F-body with an A4 trans sets the idle speed at:
650rpm P/N
550rpm in gear
M6 trans cars all received an 800rpm idle speed
The stock tach is rarely accurate. Of the four of these cars I've had, only one of them had an (almost) accurate tach. All of the others showed an idle speed higher than it actually was. Only way to tell for sure is with a scanner.
Originally Posted by Uziguy18
Now with cam for daily should I stay around 228
Or how high could I go and still have a good daily driver.
I want something mainly for street driving. i assume Id want more low end torque and power then high end.
There are many, many aspects to consider with the cam. Driveability is subjective so different people will find different limits for cam size for a street car. In addition to street manners, there is also the matter of valve train maintenance - more aggressive lobes will lead to greater concern over valve spring life and general valve train stability. Some people would rather make more power with a bigger, more aggressive cam and just deal with the downsides. Others would rather sacrifice some power in the name of better street manners and a more durable setup over the long term. This is really a personal decision and the best favor you can do for yourself is what you've already begun:
Originally Posted by Uziguy18
I've been trying to read as many threads as I can for Cams.
Read, research, get a general idea of what you think you might like, and then start asking specific questions about specific potential setups. It's best to gather a wide range of opinions on various setups that seem to fall within a range that you think you'd like, as different people will have different opinions on a given setup. Look for the average and go from there.
Well I did my first (mod)
I bought a lid for 20$ on cl
I have no clue on brand. But a lid is a lid is a lid right?
It took 5 mins to do
Iat was really easy
Maf was even easier going in and out
Radio didn't lock up. Everything seems golden.
I'll have ragtopz28 check it out when I go to his place later to do my oil and possibly fuel filter if he lets me... Haha
I live in apartments so no room or tools to do it here.
In with the new <br/>Now I was going to put weatherstripping on the bottom but it wouldn't seal with it. <br/>It seems sealed to me?<br/><br/>Also maf and tb worry me<br/>There is a brown/tan powder substance on them. Possibly see if ragtopz28 can take a look. I forgot to take pictures of it<br/><br/>Same color as sand but idk
Out with the old <br/><br/>No ses or anything popped up
Unless the car has already been custom tuned for a higher idle rpm, or something is wrong causing the idle to stick at that rpm, then this is not your actual idle speed. The factory tune for every LS1 F-body with an A4 trans sets the idle speed at:
650rpm P/N
550rpm in gear
M6 trans cars all received an 800rpm idle speed
The stock tach is rarely accurate. Of the four of these cars I've had, only one of them had an (almost) accurate tach. All of the others showed an idle speed higher than it actually was. Only way to tell for sure is with a scanner.
There are many, many aspects to consider with the cam. Driveability is subjective so different people will find different limits for cam size for a street car. In addition to street manners, there is also the matter of valve train maintenance - more aggressive lobes will lead to greater concern over valve spring life and general valve train stability. Some people would rather make more power with a bigger, more aggressive cam and just deal with the downsides. Others would rather sacrifice some power in the name of better street manners and a more durable setup over the long term. This is really a personal decision and the best favor you can do for yourself is what you've already begun:
Read, research, get a general idea of what you think you might like, and then start asking specific questions about specific potential setups. It's best to gather a wide range of opinions on various setups that seem to fall within a range that you think you'd like, as different people will have different opinions on a given setup. Look for the average and go from there.
I'd like right in the middle of what you just said. I want something that won't cause me issues. Do a one and done. But something that you can still tell its cammed and sounds nice. Don't need really big and don't want small. I just have no idea what I should be looking for in the middle.
Like I said. I want low end power band but still continue up to 5000-5500
I am a retard when it comes to interals of motors. I want to learn as much as possible and hopefully get up to your alls level one day.
You can't use the factory OEM dash tach as true rpm. My 98 Z28 tach indicates at about 150 higher than actual. I use my ScanGaugeII to read actual rpm. If I apply that 150 to the above pics,750rpm & 625rpm.
You can't use the factory OEM dash tach as true rpm. My 98 Z28 tach indicates at about 150 higher than actual. I use my ScanGaugeII to read actual rpm. If I apply that 150 to the above pics,750rpm & 625rpm.
02-04-2015, 09:35 AM
