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Old 06-05-2016, 09:48 PM
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Default Trying to get a parts list

currently trying to get my hands on a M6 99-02 WS6 and will be modding it.

I would like the car to be a fast fun streetable car. May take it to the strip a few times.

So far from what I have read I would like to put the following mods on. Not sure on brands or anything like that yet. Just want to get a list of the things I need on it first. Then ill decide SLP, hooker or whatever

-Lid
-Throttle body
-Intake manifold (maybe. If I get a 99-00 otherwise i will probable just keep the LS6 stock one
-Headers
-Y pipe
-Catback
- Sub frame connectors. This is really the only suspension mod I found that I will want. What else should I consider?
-12 bolt with 3.73 gears
-upgraded clutch
-Tires
-Tune

Is there anything else that I am really missing? I only have 3 non power mods 12 bolt, tires and sub frames. Is that enough for what I want to do with the car?

I am hoping to get around 350 RWHP with this setup. Friend has a A4 SS with 390RWHP with no gears or upgraded rear end. Would be nice to beat him
Old 06-06-2016, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricky5
I am hoping to get around 350 RWHP with this setup. Friend has a A4 SS with 390RWHP with no gears or upgraded rear end. Would be nice to beat him
350rwhp is a reasonable estimate for what you have listed above.

If your friend is at 390rwhp with an A4 LS1 then, assuming he has a well matched stall speed and good tires, you won't have any hope of beating him if both cars are driven to their maximum potential. Gears don't mean/do much for the A4 LS1s once they have an optimized stall speed. Assuming he has a 3500-4000 stall (typical at his power level), that car will be much quicker than a 350rwhp 3.73 geared M6 example.

Also, the A4 cars can get quite a bit of life out of the stock rear, even at that power level. They are much easier on the rear than an M6.
Old 06-06-2016, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
350rwhp is a reasonable estimate for what you have listed above.

If your friend is at 390rwhp with an A4 LS1 then, assuming he has a well matched stall speed and good tires, you won't have any hope of beating him if both cars are driven to their maximum potential. Gears don't mean/do much for the A4 LS1s once they have an optimized stall speed. Assuming he has a 3500-4000 stall (typical at his power level), that car will be much quicker than a 350rwhp 3.73 geared M6 example.

Also, the A4 cars can get quite a bit of life out of the stock rear, even at that power level. They are much easier on the rear than an M6.
He does not have a stall. Still no chance?

Also see any gaps in the parts list I have? Or does it look sound?
Old 06-06-2016, 05:56 PM
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i have headers, catback, and tune. got 350rwhp 99 A4. no idea if i have the ls6 intake stock? so you should get 350 with a good tune

if you dont have traction problems your list is probably fine but if you have traction problems might have to get some other suspension parts
Old 06-06-2016, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Cruzer23
i have headers, catback, and tune. got 350rwhp 99 A4. no idea if i have the ls6 intake stock? so you should get 350 with a good tune

if you dont have traction problems your list is probably fine but if you have traction problems might have to get some other suspension parts
like what? remember street car 90% of the time
Old 06-06-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricky5
He does not have a stall. Still no chance?
Then I guess it depends on how he's making that 390rwhp figure. Is it an otherwise stock car with a 100hp shot of N2O? If so, you still would likely loose (assuming he can get traction), since that power is well distributed across his WOT rpm range. If it's a heads/cam car without a higher stall, then he won't be able to launch within his power band and rpms will drop well below peak torque on each upshift, which puts him at a disadvantage for portions of a WOT run.

Originally Posted by Ricky5
Also see any gaps in the parts list I have? Or does it look sound?
I would not do 3.73 for an M6, I'd jump right to a 4.10. With two overdrives, there is no reason to go smaller than 4.10 - especially with a bolt-on car IMO. You might also consider a smaller crank pulley. Otherwise, that's a good list if your goal is a healthy bolt-on car with a stronger rear.
Old 06-07-2016, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricky5
like what? remember street car 90% of the time
from what ive read: lower control arm relocation brackets, lower control arms, and torque arm. i have none on my car yet but plan on at least the control arms and relocation.

my 97 had traction problems and when i put control arms on i couldnt get it to spin at all(granted only an lt1 not ls1)
Old 06-08-2016, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Then I guess it depends on how he's making that 390rwhp figure. Is it an otherwise stock car with a 100hp shot of N2O? If so, you still would likely loose (assuming he can get traction), since that power is well distributed across his WOT rpm range. If it's a heads/cam car without a higher stall, then he won't be able to launch within his power band and rpms will drop well below peak torque on each upshift, which puts him at a disadvantage for portions of a WOT run.



I would not do 3.73 for an M6, I'd jump right to a 4.10. With two overdrives, there is no reason to go smaller than 4.10 - especially with a bolt-on car IMO. You might also consider a smaller crank pulley. Otherwise, that's a good list if your goal is a healthy bolt-on car with a stronger rear.

Its a heads cam package. I have driven it and its super easy to smoke em off the line without even trying.

Would 4.10's ruin the gas mileage a lot? What do you mean with 2 overdrives. Dont know what that is
Old 10-15-2016, 11:29 PM
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I would get a an exhaust cut-out.
Cheap way to free up 10-20 hp.



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