kbronSS

my friend just got bit by the mod bug and he is asking me to help him build his 2001 Artic White SS a4. it has 56k miles on it. since i lost mine, i jumped on the chance to spend his money and drive the car. so far, money isint a issue, but im guessing somwhere around 2to3 thousand. no cam, no internals, yet. he said he might do a cam but certainly no heads at the moment. he is going for a drag car, but something he can cruise in, since most racing over here is done on the streets. so im not sure what type of tc to suggest, or what nitrous system. can u guys help us out???

lgobraves

iTrader: (14)

looks like you've had some bad luck with cars....ask around in the nitrous section to see what those guys have to say

2001whiteSS6spd

I would start with all the little mods like Lid, 85mm Maf, P/P tb first.@ $275

Then I would add long tubes, QTP, dynatech or kooks since your in CA with a catted y-pipe your looking @ $1200

Then I would figure out if you are going to get a cam or not. tr224 is a nice CA smog legal cam @ $350 + sprigs etc. @ $400. If you get a cam this size I would get around a 3500 stall. Fuddle seems to make a good stall at @ $400.
If no cam I would go with a 3000 stall. + tunning @ $500 + MT drag radials @ $320 for 2.

Then I would look for a used good condition complelete nitrous kit including window switch, heater, purge, fpss.

Then go to the track and kick some muffstang ***!

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

I'd advise full exhaust, cam, converter, lid/filter, pulley, tires, and a tune...

-Will

kbronSS

here is what we are at so far.....
Pacesetter lt's with y-pipe
SLP lid
85mm maf
these are the things we are ordering tomorrow. what is a P/P throttle body?(the pp i mean)

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

dont waste your money on the 85 mm maf it will not help that much and might even hurt you, get what i have in my sig, save money on not getting a catback and get an electric cutout that will outfolw the catback anyday. P/P is ported polished throttle body. Here is the list lid, cutout, FTRA(Fast toys ram air) or SSRA(similar to FTRA but plastic with an extra scoop), ported throttle body, converter (yank, fuddle, vig, etc..), UD pulley, headers should be last because they will need a tune as a converter might also (ie shift point adjustments). Exhaust flows pretty good for stock internals. that is the list i would go by and if you have any money left over get some LCA's (lower control arms) or SFC's (subframe connectors)

zspot98

iTrader: (87)

If going with a straight drag car you might want to start from the other direction. Like suspension/getting the car to hook. IMO you might want to look @ SFC, LCA, PHB, springs and good shocks to put the power on the pavement. So many people want to build big power but don't look into the other mods that are needed to support that power. This is just my .02 on the question.

kbronSS

u guys mean stick with the stock tb then? wont he get more out of a bigger one?

kbronSS

SFC= subframe connectors?
PHB= panhard bars?
LCA= lower control arms?

2001whiteSS6spd

Yes stick with the stock throttle body and get it ported and polished. I think New Era is doing them at a good price. Unless you plan on a fast intake which seems out of your price range and not needed at this point.

The most important part for a drag suspension in my opinion is springs and shocks and very close to second is an adjustable torque arm. I would not worry about Lower control arms or your panhard bar, these OEM peices are strong enough. But if you lower your car I would recommend a adjustable PHB and lower control arm relocation brackets to get your rear end in proper alignment.

And another thing I would do is find a good local tune shop that speacializes in our type of drivetrain. Ask him what Mass air flow he likes to tune with.

Hope this helps

Eric

8GTOKLR

iTrader: (6)

Correct.

UMI, BMR, Sphon,who ever else is over there----------------->


Since I am pretty much done with with the mod bug...I would say get a 12 bolt with 3.73 and some suspension (vendors listed above) and a stall converter. With stock HP that should put him in his seat

Ps least get a lid, cutout, Throttle body coolant bypass mods for starters that should run you 205.00 + or - and you get nominal increase in acceleration

kbronSS

eibach and billstein alright??? his car is a slp car, but i think it only has appearance stuff on it. it had the grill and zr1 wheels.

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

I'd say go for:

3000-3500 stall: $400 from Fuddle
Lid: $100
Nice LTs and catted Y: $1200
Good catback: $400 will get you Magnaflow, Hooker, or Loudmouth (all flow amazing)
UD pulley: $230
Drag Radials: $300
Subframe connectors: $150
A good tune: $300-400

The lid and full exhaust should pick him up a good 40 hp (especially with the tune), the converter will knock a half-second off his times, the underdrive pulley will get him a bit more power and some faster revving. The drag radials and, to a certain extent, the SFCs will help him hook up and avoid chassis flexion. The tune will draw any additional power out of the car and make it more drivable. I'd say with that setup and traction, he'd be looking at low-mid 12s if he ever took it to the track (which I know he mostly does street racing). An SS with that stall, power, and ability to hook could blow away most cars off the line and still handle itself very well from a roll as well.

2001whiteSS6spd

If you are really trying to go with a drag set up I would ask what suspension to go with(shock, springs etc.) in drag race tech forum.

I currently have eibach springs and bilstein shocks installed on my car and I like em. This is a street/road course type set up.

Eric

LoWeLL216

iTrader: (1)

Just so you know long tube headers are not smog legal in California even with a catted y-pipe. Any header that doesn't carry a C.A.R.B. number or requires moving the cats is illegal.