Torque Converter...or... DR's and Suspension?
06-10-2006, 01:28 PM
#1
Torque Converter...or... DR's and Suspension? I was not sure where to post this since it covered two different categories, but im sure it will get moved appropriately.. but here goes.. I have a 98 T/A and Im sitting at high 12's in the quarter. Well, I have about $500 or $600 to spend on my next mod and I was debating on either buying a Torque Converter.. or Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials, LCA's, Panhard Bar, and a Torque Arm for the car. The car doesn't have a very solid 60' time, which is why i was leaning towards tires and suspension, however, I am still on the stock rearend... and would really rather not blow it up. so what do you guys think? which one would i enjoy more? and which one would net me bigger gains in the quarter? Thanks!
06-10-2006, 01:58 PM
#3
So, if I were to get the converter, what all am i going to need? the converter, tranny cooler, deeper pan, temperature gauge, tranny flush, new fluid? will i need all of these things? What brand should I go with? And what kind of gains should i expect in the quarter? thanks!
06-10-2006, 02:18 PM
#4
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Go with a Yank converter. They are expensive but they are worth it.
You will need the tranny cooler, torque converter, tranny flush and new fluids.
My 98 picked up 3 tenths in the 1/8th mile with a 3200 converter on a bone stock engine and suspension on a street tire.
You will need the tranny cooler, torque converter, tranny flush and new fluids.
My 98 picked up 3 tenths in the 1/8th mile with a 3200 converter on a bone stock engine and suspension on a street tire.
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06-11-2006, 12:57 AM
#10
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A converter is the sinlge best mod for an A4. In order to stick with a converter, you need drag radials.
If you use it much at all at the track, and actually hook, your rear end will eventually go
.
The vast majority of LS1techers get a converter between 3k and 4k rpm. Do searching to decide what is for you. 3500 is good for most people in a street car with no camshaft, 3k for those who want more of a stock like driving experience, 4k for thsoe who just plain want to go fast......or maybe a 4400, just depends.
Long story short on the rear end, if you run good ETs and good 60s it is going to go boom, hopefully later rather than sooner but you never can be sure. I would recommend finding a replacement 10 bolt and keeping it on hand ($200-$400) or waiting until you can afford to buy a 12 bolt and be done with it.
For a converter I suggest a new Yank, maybe a new Vig, but that's it. Period. JMO.
If you use it much at all at the track, and actually hook, your rear end will eventually go
. The vast majority of LS1techers get a converter between 3k and 4k rpm. Do searching to decide what is for you. 3500 is good for most people in a street car with no camshaft, 3k for those who want more of a stock like driving experience, 4k for thsoe who just plain want to go fast......or maybe a 4400, just depends.
Long story short on the rear end, if you run good ETs and good 60s it is going to go boom, hopefully later rather than sooner but you never can be sure. I would recommend finding a replacement 10 bolt and keeping it on hand ($200-$400) or waiting until you can afford to buy a 12 bolt and be done with it.
For a converter I suggest a new Yank, maybe a new Vig, but that's it. Period. JMO.
06-11-2006, 01:32 AM
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Get the TC. Even without DRs, you can take advantage of the gains from a roll. The higher stall TC will slip your motor into it's powerband faster from a roll than stock, and also significantly raise your shift extension (rpm to which the motors drops after an upshift) during WOT runs.
3500 stall minimum, IMO.
The 10-bolt should last quite a while on DRs so long as you don't get wheel hop. Mine did fine for years in the 1.6-1.7 60-foot range on a full weight WS6.
3500 stall minimum, IMO.
The 10-bolt should last quite a while on DRs so long as you don't get wheel hop. Mine did fine for years in the 1.6-1.7 60-foot range on a full weight WS6.
06-11-2006, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
while on DRs so long as you don't get wheel hop. Mine did fine for years in the 1.6-1.7 60-foot range on a full weight WS6.
06-11-2006, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Mine went boom after 27 total track passes. Only four were in the 1.6 range, the rest were 1.74 or higher and I was in a Z28 minus 100 pounds of weight reduction. I never had any wheel hop either. They are not all created equal.
We've even had a 10 second auto trans LS1 car in the club that did fine on the stock 10-bolt for a long time, even on ET Drags....hell, the motor blew before the rear.
Guess we've just been lucky.
06-11-2006, 04:49 AM
#15
alright, so overwhelmingly it's the converter that i should get. And I should either go with a Yank or Vigilante... are any of the dealers having deals on them right now that i should know about? or do they normally run deals on them? I was looking at Yanks website and $775 seemed pretty expensive for a converter, but i guess that's just what they cost. Also, does the car need to be tuned after a Torque Converter, I keep reading about peoples cars running like crap until they get it tuned after installing a Torque Converter. Thanks!
06-11-2006, 10:29 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by 98RedBird
Also, does the car need to be tuned after a Torque Converter, I keep reading about peoples cars running like crap until they get it tuned after installing a Torque Converter. Thanks!
My car didn't require any tuning after a TC. Some of the newer LS1s ('01+) have had post-TC install issues with Torque Management pulling timing after WOT upshifts, and/or certain trans solenoid codes tripping due to the higher stall, but if you have a '98 I wouldn't be too concerned. Seems like it's the newer model year PCMs that get more sensitive about TC changes.
06-11-2006, 04:46 PM
#18
I'm going to disagree with the other guys for the following reason: I installed my TC and DR's at the same time because you need the tires to get anything out of the TC. But I wish I had gotten the DR's first to see how much gain I would have gotten from them alone. Then I would know how much was attributable strictly to the TC. Seeing how your car does with DR's and LCA's would put you in a good position to evaluate the gains you get from the TC when you add it later.
06-11-2006, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RevGTO
I installed my TC and DR's at the same time because you need the tires to get anything out of the TC.
But if your only interest is ET reduction at the track, then yes it's true that the gains won't be huge if you stay on a stock tire.
06-11-2006, 05:09 PM
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Right now i don't think your at the power levels where you'd need ET Streets. Kinda overkill without a stall i'd say. Even without the suspension stuff the stall with drop your ET,went from a best of 13.3 to 12.8 with stall and DR's.(Basicly just a Lid/catback car) With your mods no reason you shouldn't see low 12's(I'd suggest a basic tune)Go for the stall, you'll be amazed at the difference.