New 2 stage idea...anyone tried this?
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New 2 stage idea...anyone tried this?
I got this idea from a friend of mine that does alot of street racing and has some good ideas on how to leave hard on the street.
I dont like stacking nitrous systems personally with a 2nd stage on top of a 1st stage if you use a direct port plus a plate/fogger for the other stage.
So heres the idea. I wanna leave on a 200 shot WOT Switch and click over to the direct port jetted for around 400. But letting go of one button and coming on to another wouldnt exactly work right. So the idea is to use relays to switch over from the nozzle to the DP fogger. When you come on the hand held button it automatically shuts off the nozzle.
The way i would wire this would be just like a transbrake/nitrous setup that when your on the transbrake it keeps the nitrous off, the moment you release a transbrake button the nitrous comes on. Wire it opposite, and the button would shut off one nitrous system and activate the other.
Anyone tried this.
I dont like stacking nitrous systems personally with a 2nd stage on top of a 1st stage if you use a direct port plus a plate/fogger for the other stage.
So heres the idea. I wanna leave on a 200 shot WOT Switch and click over to the direct port jetted for around 400. But letting go of one button and coming on to another wouldnt exactly work right. So the idea is to use relays to switch over from the nozzle to the DP fogger. When you come on the hand held button it automatically shuts off the nozzle.
The way i would wire this would be just like a transbrake/nitrous setup that when your on the transbrake it keeps the nitrous off, the moment you release a transbrake button the nitrous comes on. Wire it opposite, and the button would shut off one nitrous system and activate the other.
Anyone tried this.
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You could use a Progressive controller that also has +12 volt Timed Output. Leave on the progressive with stage #1 and activate stage #2 with the timer output. I have seen some controllers that the progressive timers are hold and wait if you have to lift and the +12V timer output does the same. When you get back into it it just resumes where you let off at. You could also just leave on stage #1 and then use the Delay timer of a progressive controller to determine the time when stage #2 comes in. I have seen controllers that allow as litle as .200 second of build time if you are worried about the time for stage #2 to hit fully.
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there is an old S10 doing exactly that here in my area. His is setup with time delays though so he doesn't have to hit a button at all. the first kit is on for a second and a half then it shuts off right as the DP comes on. Works like a charm for him
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Personally I dont like a delay timer or something thats preset to tell me when i wanna come on the 2nd stage. plus i dont like to use progessive controlelrs, they beat on solenoids and when using in a street setup, very unpredictable. Running the 2nd stage on the button would allow you to come on the 2nd stage alot sooner if the car settles and hooks well on the 1st stage, and if the car is spinning or acting up on the 1st stage, you can wait to come on the 2nd stage (or not use it at all if this is a street race and you have the other person covered on the 1st stage).
But stacking a fogger on top of a direct port is just not a good idea from a tuning standpoint.
But stacking a fogger on top of a direct port is just not a good idea from a tuning standpoint.
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If the button is SPDT(Single Pole Double Throw), then it could work and would be fast enough. Without touching the next stage button, it will be running the 200 shot. Then when you push the button it moves power from the 200shot relay to the 400 shot relay. And like you I prefer the KISS(Keep It Simple Stupid) method. I am assuming that you had the single fogger first and added the DP? I would sell the single nozzle or install it on one of my other cars and get a 2-stage soleniod kit for the DP.
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I have been using the same NOS solenoids for testing Progressive controllers for seven years now and they are still working properly. If you install the NOS teflon seals they are very durable.
Do you think that if a person were running an ET type race that the timer and/or progressive controller would provide much more consistant runs?
I personally can not hit the buttons every time the same. There are several good timers out there also. If you are running a trans brake you can connect the +12V supply to the WOT switch through the Normally Closed portion of the Trans Brake and/or 2-step switch so that the nitrous timers will not be activated until you release the launch control button. This will activate the nitrous system exactly the same each time and be more consistant. It has worked for me anyways. You can keep the system simple, believe it or not. I am quite familar with the KISS method of doing things.
For ET racing you can use a 2-stage system with a small second stage and use it to run somebody down if needed. This is usually when I fall asleep on the tree or miss a gear. I prefer to use a Progreesive controller that has a dual ramp feature and ramp the nitrous to 100% and then back down to 70-80% towards the end of the run to set my dial in. I then connect a pushbutton to ground and to the controller outputs(controls the ground of the solenoids). I can then hit the button at the end of the 1/4 if I have messed up. It has helped on a few ocasions.
I am sure that there are people who will disagree with me on these methods, however, I will continue to do things my way as long it works consistantly.
Just make sure your timers are set to hold and wait if you have to lift the throttle. This way the run is not lost if it is a quick blip of the throttle.
Just my .02 and I think there are options out there for someone that wants to do this.
Do you think that if a person were running an ET type race that the timer and/or progressive controller would provide much more consistant runs?
I personally can not hit the buttons every time the same. There are several good timers out there also. If you are running a trans brake you can connect the +12V supply to the WOT switch through the Normally Closed portion of the Trans Brake and/or 2-step switch so that the nitrous timers will not be activated until you release the launch control button. This will activate the nitrous system exactly the same each time and be more consistant. It has worked for me anyways. You can keep the system simple, believe it or not. I am quite familar with the KISS method of doing things.
For ET racing you can use a 2-stage system with a small second stage and use it to run somebody down if needed. This is usually when I fall asleep on the tree or miss a gear. I prefer to use a Progreesive controller that has a dual ramp feature and ramp the nitrous to 100% and then back down to 70-80% towards the end of the run to set my dial in. I then connect a pushbutton to ground and to the controller outputs(controls the ground of the solenoids). I can then hit the button at the end of the 1/4 if I have messed up. It has helped on a few ocasions.
I am sure that there are people who will disagree with me on these methods, however, I will continue to do things my way as long it works consistantly.
Just make sure your timers are set to hold and wait if you have to lift the throttle. This way the run is not lost if it is a quick blip of the throttle.
Just my .02 and I think there are options out there for someone that wants to do this.