What Cam to Use with Nitrous
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I asked a local tuner about a cam for this set up and here were his recomendations.
224/228 581/588 LSA 113
or
TR 230/224 575/560 LSA 111
The first cam is made by comp I think. He currently runs that cam in his car. What do you guys think, and do you have any other recomendations? This car will be a daily driver and I will be keeping the stock heads.
224/228 581/588 LSA 113
or
TR 230/224 575/560 LSA 111
The first cam is made by comp I think. He currently runs that cam in his car. What do you guys think, and do you have any other recomendations? This car will be a daily driver and I will be keeping the stock heads.
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I am sure they do. I would love to have a big cam like that, but I don't want to be changing the springs once a year. When I get another car for a daily drive I might consider the G5X3 with a nice set of heads
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What about the AMS SS227 227/230 593/575 lift lsa 113? I am open to suggestions. There are so many choices, its going to be hard to choose. lol
Last edited by obrien24; 06-19-2004 at 06:30 PM.
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#8
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The Tr 230/224 is a good choice for stock heads. I had a custom TR 228/222 110 that kicked *** (M6).
What you want is a reverse split with a positive degree of overlap. The 230/224 has a +5 which is really good.
Of course keep in mind that you'll be able to shoot up to 150 shot max. After that you need to go standard split.
What you want is a reverse split with a positive degree of overlap. The 230/224 has a +5 which is really good.
Of course keep in mind that you'll be able to shoot up to 150 shot max. After that you need to go standard split.
#13
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Originally Posted by exodus
I know that it is usually better to have a little more on the exhaust side to help work with the spray better.
what heads are you running, how much are you shooting, what is your CR, are you stock bottom or forged, hot weather or not, high altidute or sea level ..................?
It is not as easy as you think. Before you shoot nitrous, you have to understand your setup. then you have to be able to tune it.
There are basics however for best performance..
<less than 150 shot+ stock heads= reverse split, tight lsa
>more than 150 shot+ High flow heads= Standard split + wider lsa.
Anything in between is not maximised as per setup.
You can shoot N20 on any cam, how much is the real trick.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
It is not just the cam that does the job. You have to take into consideration
what heads are you running, how much are you shooting, what is your CR, are you stock bottom or forged, hot weather or not, high altidute or sea level ..................?
It is not as easy as you think. Before you shoot nitrous, you have to understand your setup. then you have to be able to tune it.
There are basics however for best performance..
<less than 150 shot+ stock heads= reverse split, tight lsa
>more than 150 shot+ High flow heads= Standard split + wider lsa.
Anything in between is not maximised as per setup.
You can shoot N20 on any cam, how much is the real trick.
what heads are you running, how much are you shooting, what is your CR, are you stock bottom or forged, hot weather or not, high altidute or sea level ..................?
It is not as easy as you think. Before you shoot nitrous, you have to understand your setup. then you have to be able to tune it.
There are basics however for best performance..
<less than 150 shot+ stock heads= reverse split, tight lsa
>more than 150 shot+ High flow heads= Standard split + wider lsa.
Anything in between is not maximised as per setup.
You can shoot N20 on any cam, how much is the real trick.
Call a cam company and tell them you want a nitrous cam and see they don't tell you what I just did. You can also look at NX's new line of 'nitrous' camshafts. All of them have more exhaust duration than intake duration and are set on wider LSA's.
If you're looking for a cam that works for your 'motor' setting, but works with nitrous, then a reverse-split cam might be the way to go, but if you're looking to make the BIG numbers on nitrous, reverse-split is definately not the cam pattern you're looking for.
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If you're looking to make 400RWHP on stock heads you're going to need a very aggressive cam. If you're using heads, the cam you pick depends on the heads you pick.
If you're going to invest in a nice set of heads (AS, GTP, MTI, TEA, Ect.) then making 400RWHP should be achievable with a cam similiar to Thunder Racing's 224 Camshaft. If you're looking for a cam with a little bit more lope/chop to it, a camshaft similiar to MTI's X1 might be a good choice.
If you're going to be using stock heads, you're going to be looking at cams that have intake durations close to 240.
It sounds to me like you want to make good power on motor and then spray on top of that. If that's the case, don't worry too much about picking a 'nitrous' cam. You should only really be concerned about choosing the proper 'nitrous' cam when you're looking for peak performance from a nitrous setup.
I hope that answers all of your questions.
If you're going to invest in a nice set of heads (AS, GTP, MTI, TEA, Ect.) then making 400RWHP should be achievable with a cam similiar to Thunder Racing's 224 Camshaft. If you're looking for a cam with a little bit more lope/chop to it, a camshaft similiar to MTI's X1 might be a good choice.
If you're going to be using stock heads, you're going to be looking at cams that have intake durations close to 240.
It sounds to me like you want to make good power on motor and then spray on top of that. If that's the case, don't worry too much about picking a 'nitrous' cam. You should only really be concerned about choosing the proper 'nitrous' cam when you're looking for peak performance from a nitrous setup.
I hope that answers all of your questions.
#19
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Unless your NHRA bound, just get a cam that suits your n/a needs. The levels you are going to be spraying a dedicated nitrous cam is not needed. Now with that said, choose one that has a little more exhaust duration, as has been stated (I like a little more lift too). I make 430rwhp on bonestock ls6 heads and spray upto 300rwhp shot, so far, and this is done with a 228/232 578/587 112. Don't let the big numbers be your sole factor in choosing a cam, the smaller cams can really produce under the curve and great street/strip cam. You should see my linear tq curve, it runs 450rwtq at peak with, IIRC, over 400 most of the run, yes my set-up has more tq that HP n/a, not to many of them running around, lol. I can post the dyno sheet if you like.
Robert
Robert