Nitrous Oxide Installation | Tuning | Products
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Nitrous Engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-28-2004, 09:40 AM
  #1  
Kleeborp the Moderator™
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
MeentSS02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default Nitrous Engine

Since this site has the best technical advice, here's a hypothetical question...basically, I'm just trying to gain some insight here.

Say I were to build a motor specifically to handle nitrous...what qualities would this engine need? I would think it would be something that is the most structurally sound, but I know next to nothing about engines. What would be the best block (iron or aluminum), best heads, best CID, etc...I'd like to eventually build an engine that can handle a 200+ shot with no problems, but I'd kinda like to steer myself in the right direction. I am big about building something right the first time...I know a stock LS1 can handle around a 150 shot with the associated fuel upgrades without a problem, but I also believe in the saying "go big or go home."

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
Old 06-28-2004, 12:00 PM
  #2  
The Bull
 
DERTY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Well, you can go from mild to wild with this one. Nitrous reacts well with any engine that has good parts. Anywhere from stock displacement upwards of 427ci would be completely sufficient for an LS1. It's at least as simple as good rods, pistons, rings and bearings to spray 200 all day long. The more compression ratio you can get, the more power you can possibly make. Of course that is at the sacrifice of rebuilding the motor more frequently as well. Any of the heads will work as well, LS1, LS6, Truck, etc.

The real question is, what do you want out of your car when you are not spraying? Do you want to run on pump gas? Do you want the earth to shake or something a little more stealthy when you fire it up? What do you want to spend when this ordeal is done? Prices can range anywhere between $3000 total and $30,000+ depending on what you want to do. Don't forget the least fun part, for every dollar spent on the engine you should spend at least $.50 to $1.00 on the suspension and chassis work to take advantage of it.

If I were looking for a simple to run but kickass low buck setup. I'd just get a forged stock block with some kick *** heads and a cam to match. Anything more then that will gobble your money up pretty quick.
Old 06-28-2004, 12:53 PM
  #3  
Kleeborp the Moderator™
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
MeentSS02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Yeah, I'm thinking of staying very close to stock CI so that I don't have to go and redo my exhaust (like stepping up to 1 7/8 headers from my 1 3/4, so on and so on)... Ultimately, I'd like a nice forged setup with some AFR heads, and bullet-proof internals...basically, I want it to be reliable, or at least as reliable as a car huffing the giggle can be.

I really don't want it to be all that stealth either...the setup I have right now is a little too stealth as it is. I generally don't like to get into street races (been pulled over a couple of times, no tickets *luckily*), and with my LT headers, cats, Hooker cat-back, and stock internals, people think I'm an easy target (yeah, I get Civics and crap revving at me all the time). I want people to be scared to run me, and I have no intent to get into hustling.

Here's the plan:

Upgrade the suspension stuff first (I'm already well on my way)
Drivetrain next (built 8.8" rear, nitrous DS, good clutch)
and finally...
The powerplant

The only reason I am looking at getting a forged setup instead of just doing H/C on a stock block is because I like things being overkill...I don't want to end up on a wrecker after a day of racing, and forged components would give me peace of mind. Yeah, it will cost more $$$, but I don't care. This is my long-term project, and it gives me something to look forward to. It might not make sense to some, but to me, it is the way to go.

So I'm guessing I should start looking into building a forged 347/348, but here's the question for now:

Aluminum or iron block?

I'd like to stick with aluminum if at all possible...
Old 06-28-2004, 12:56 PM
  #4  
The Bull
 
DERTY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

There's nothing wrong with Aluminum. There are a fair number of aluminum blocks out there running pretty quick. I wouldn't worry about it at all.
Old 06-28-2004, 03:04 PM
  #5  
Kleeborp the Moderator™
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
MeentSS02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

What kinda compression ratio would be ideal for a large shot? I'd like to run pump gas at all times, so I'm guessing somewhere around stockish-10.5:1, maybe 11:1...
Old 06-28-2004, 03:10 PM
  #6  
The Bull
 
DERTY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Ideal would certainly be 13:1 or above, but that defeats the purpose of pump gas. No higher then 12:1 would be sufficient on 94 octane. If 91 to 93 is all you have then stick with something lower then 11.5:1.
Old 06-28-2004, 04:46 PM
  #7  
Kleeborp the Moderator™
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
MeentSS02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 10,316
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

You've been most helpful...and damn, your car is fast as ****. I was just messing around on your website, and saw your ETs and such...one word. Dayum.
Old 06-28-2004, 05:17 PM
  #8  
The Bull
 
DERTY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

No problem. Glad I could help out.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:44 PM.