35thls1ss19

iTrader: (1)

I have a NX single nozel kit, with a bmn window switch, FPSS, and a WOT switch. SO my question is how do i got aobut testing it. Today i had a friend hold the nozzel into a clear plastic bottle, held the WOT switch down and made the throttle rise the rpms to 2600 where the window switch is spose to spray..... nothin happened So i checked all my wirein and its all ok i dotn no what eles to check.. What eles you think i need to check? Thanks alot for all you help

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

stupid suggestion, but bottle open? (i've done it )

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

and is the FPSS set for the correct fuel pressure?

mikey94_95

OK. Here are some tips:

*Is the green LED lighting in your designated window? IF not here are some common mistakes..........
*Make sure the Lock-Out feature is in the "OFF" position
*Do NOT press the brake during testing
*Be sure you are in 4-cylinder mode

RED98WS6

Isolate each component by removing from the circuit (for testing purposes only).

1) Start with the window switch. Remove this from the circuit. You don't need the nitrous bottle open. Just flip the ignition switch, arm the system, and reach over and hit your wot switch. You should hear the solenoids clicking (the are pretty loud).

2) Do you have a fuel pressure safety switch? Try isolating that as well (don't turn the engine on or open the nitrous bottle). Check to see if noids are clicking. If no, check your wiring with an ohm meter. You'll need a wiring diagram of your system. You could have a loose wire somewhere.

3) Check your wot switch with an ohm meter.

I went through this same thing a couple of weeks ago. It was a bad window switch that was the problem.

Hope this helps

BMN

What wire diagram did u use? The one supplied or did you recieve the one modified for NX hookup? For NX, this is the one you should use. If you get no green light, you grabbed the wrong tach wire. If you use the bottle to catch the spray, just set it for 3K and give it a good rev.

Note to folks: Don't try to slowly rev the engine up and see if it kicks on at what the factory tach claims. Factory tach's are notorious for being off by a few hundred RPM, even up to 400 I've seen before. ANY window switch out today is far more accurate the your dash gauge.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar problem with a complicated dual window set-up. It was driving me freaking nuts. It was a bad connection. The BMN is a bad azz ws and I was going to get one but decided to use what I had for $$ concerns.

35thls1ss19

iTrader: (1)

well i bypassed the window switch last night and pressed the WOT switch and the noids work! So i took it out and tried her and the first time it def sparyed at 2600rpm the tries just spun! it was a rush. So then i went to another straight away and treid again and this tiem nuttin..... i did this about 3-4 times then all of a suddden it worked again?? i dotn know what eles could be worng... i have the bmn of the pin 10 wire out of my ecu. what should i be turnin the nitrous on and when should i have it turn off? When i get home from work today i am goin to mount the window switch so that i can see it and tell if the grenn LED is on. thanks for all the help guys

35thls1ss19

iTrader: (1)

Yea thats the wirein setup i used

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Try jumping a wire across your fpss, same as removing it. They are sometimes finicky and can work intermitantly. It's one thing that can work here and there. Sounds like wiring is ok, however mine was doing same working, not working, diff rpm's, was loose wire. I mounted a green remote light permantly in ash tray for both stages (pos output to each set of noids) thay way when ws switch turns on/off you can see when (my tach is right on). I also tape wot switch open for testing, just make sure when testing that you go progressive with rpm climb. But, I also disconnect noids positive and stick a test light in plug, that way I can do it safely by myself (you see when noids are supposed to open, and already know they work). One more thing, do you have the correct relay, as I'm running 6 relays in my system and they have a combo of 3 diff sets of colored wires coming out. I always use the pin number to be sure. It can be like this and you have to stay with it, good luck, I am sure you'll figure it out.

BMN

Use 3K for turn on and 6K for turn off. Will be 5 and 7 on the dials going from left to rite.