Dual Stage Dry or One Stage Dry and One Wet
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Dual Stage Dry or One Stage Dry and One Wet
We currently have a dry kit on the car and it makes ~150rwhp. We are thinking about putting a Wet kit on the car also, or should we just add another stage, dry?
We would be pilling the Dry at about 125rwhp or so, and the Wet at 75 or so. What do you all think? This is on a Stock Bottem end C5 with Heads/Cam. We understand the nitrous deal, lol I do spray ~400 on my LS1, but its a little built
We would be pilling the Dry at about 125rwhp or so, and the Wet at 75 or so. What do you all think? This is on a Stock Bottem end C5 with Heads/Cam. We understand the nitrous deal, lol I do spray ~400 on my LS1, but its a little built
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I would say it depends on what you are wanting to do with the car. If it on the street a second dry stage will work just fine. The only thing that you have to make sure of is that the car gets retuned. The second stage of a dry shot will also be less expensive and a quicker install. If all you are going to do is a total of 200 I would split it half and half to be a little easier on the drive train if it is stock.
#5
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Myself I chose the dry/dry route. Dry will make just as much power as wet. With the added benifit of being safer. With that said, I was thinking of a wet for second stage, but decided to upsize injectors and stay dry. A lot of new ways to make dry a good choice for street or strip. You can have a different fuel tune and a diff timing tune, considering n/a and n2o, within the same end tune loaded into comp. Two tunes in one. Now some of the vendors will have different ideas , but that's ok, it's the American way.
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Single intank Walbro with hotwire kit, FMS green top 42 lb injectors and duals stage dru has been proven over and over to be effective combo for 700-740 rwhp TOTAL.
I have done dry/wet and it works well too. The only downfall is its tougher to sort out the automatic timing dry retard steps when the wet engages using LS1edit.
If your total is ~700 rwhp or less....either way will work just fine.
I have done dry/wet and it works well too. The only downfall is its tougher to sort out the automatic timing dry retard steps when the wet engages using LS1edit.
If your total is ~700 rwhp or less....either way will work just fine.
#7
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I install nitrous for a living. I recommend you go with a 75 - 100 dry, have this on a WOT(Wide open throttle switch.) Then spray a 125 or more depending on your bottom end, and have it on a button, this way you will have a nice hard launch and at around the 60 ft or so you can spray the second kit and get an extra kick of mind blowing power. I can introduce you to more then 30 guys I've done this very setup on and they will tell you just how happy they are...
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#8
What is needed to add a second stage dry shot. I am currently running the NOS 5177 kit with no jets. Is the fuel system in my car enough for a 2nd stage?? Racetronix fuel system and Ford red top #30lb. injectors.
#9
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The Ford svo 30lb's are 36lb at our fuel pressure. Yes you can do a dual with this fuel system. Your injectors will be your limit. The 5177 can only flow about 140/150rwhp (powershot orifice size). However, if you split the redundant noids up, one per nozzle you can get up to about 300hp and it's been done. If you go big some tuning is in order. A 75/75 shot would work fine or something similar. I didn't catch your mods before reply but I'll check in morning and also give you your max hp you can safely run on those injectors.
Robert
Robert
#10
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Single intank Walbro with hotwire kit, FMS green top 42 lb injectors and duals stage dru has been proven over and over to be effective combo for 700-740 rwhp TOTAL.
I have done dry/wet and it works well too. The only downfall is its tougher to sort out the automatic timing dry retard steps when the wet engages using LS1edit.
If your total is ~700 rwhp or less....either way will work just fine.
I have done dry/wet and it works well too. The only downfall is its tougher to sort out the automatic timing dry retard steps when the wet engages using LS1edit.
If your total is ~700 rwhp or less....either way will work just fine.
#11
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Originally Posted by Nasty Hawk
What is needed to add a second stage dry shot. I am currently running the NOS 5177 kit with no jets. Is the fuel system in my car enough for a 2nd stage?? Racetronix fuel system and Ford red top #30lb. injectors.
#13
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Originally Posted by Mr Powell
We currently have a dry kit on the car and it makes ~150rwhp. We are thinking about putting a Wet kit on the car also, or should we just add another stage, dry?
We would be pilling the Dry at about 125rwhp or so, and the Wet at 75 or so. What do you all think? This is on a Stock Bottem end C5 with Heads/Cam. We understand the nitrous deal, lol I do spray ~400 on my LS1, but its a little built
We would be pilling the Dry at about 125rwhp or so, and the Wet at 75 or so. What do you all think? This is on a Stock Bottem end C5 with Heads/Cam. We understand the nitrous deal, lol I do spray ~400 on my LS1, but its a little built
#14
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Whether you choose dry/wet or dry/dry, I would use dual window switches and a first gear lock out for 2nd stage. The problem I have with a button (hand held or stable mount) is two things, you'll be lucky to duplicte any single run, and if a manual trans you'll be to busy shifting, watching the tach and listing/feeling the run, concerning drag racing. If you are just goofing around on the street, who cares I guess, but having it all automatic and dialed in is the way to go, imo. Oh, by the way, I do love wet kits.
Robert
Robert