Which setup?
10-15-2005, 03:58 PM
#1
Which setup? After numerous hours of searching and reading up for the past few months, it has come down to two setups for my forged motor and supporting fuel system which has now been upgraded ... which setup is the more advantageous? (1) DP 250-shot with a progressive controller, or (2) Stage II with a 100 dry shot spraying in front of the MAF and the second stage being a DP 150 ... both would be tuned for the nitrous setup.
One particular thing I'm concerned about with BOTH setups is how the adjustment of the timing would come into play on both setups and still be safe without risking a lean condition. I don't want to run around town with 6-10 degrees advanced timing. And I know the ECM will compensate for the 100 dryshot.
One particular thing I'm concerned about with BOTH setups is how the adjustment of the timing would come into play on both setups and still be safe without risking a lean condition. I don't want to run around town with 6-10 degrees advanced timing. And I know the ECM will compensate for the 100 dryshot.
10-15-2005, 05:33 PM
#3
That's what I was thinking 'cause it seems a lot of folks here are experiencing a peak torque that starts falling off at about 4000 RPM when they only spray with one stage. If I can do the dry shot and then keep pulling a little higher, progressively (with the second stage coming on at 4000 rpm), I think the tranny and rearend will hold up for me and pull me to some pretty good times on the 1/4 and, better yet, a good trap speed.
However, how is the timing effected? The cam has a degree ground into it. If I go this route (100 dry and 150 DP progressively controlled), would I have to drive on all-motor with 5-6 degrees tuned into the ECM all the time? I don't want to lose street power/torque, so, what's the best way around it? Maybe a manual timing switch to use ONLY when I plan to hit the second stage? Not sure how I would most effectively manage the timing piece of the puzzle ... any ideas?
However, how is the timing effected? The cam has a degree ground into it. If I go this route (100 dry and 150 DP progressively controlled), would I have to drive on all-motor with 5-6 degrees tuned into the ECM all the time? I don't want to lose street power/torque, so, what's the best way around it? Maybe a manual timing switch to use ONLY when I plan to hit the second stage? Not sure how I would most effectively manage the timing piece of the puzzle ... any ideas?
10-15-2005, 07:21 PM
#4
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
That's what I was thinking 'cause it seems a lot of folks here are experiencing a peak torque that starts falling off at about 4000 RPM when they only spray with one stage. If I can do the dry shot and then keep pulling a little higher, progressively (with the second stage coming on at 4000 rpm), I think the tranny and rearend will hold up for me and pull me to some pretty good times on the 1/4 and, better yet, a good trap speed.
However, how is the timing effected? The cam has a degree ground into it. If I go this route (100 dry and 150 DP progressively controlled), would I have to drive on all-motor with 5-6 degrees tuned into the ECM all the time? I don't want to lose street power/torque, so, what's the best way around it? Maybe a manual timing switch to use ONLY when I plan to hit the second stage? Not sure how I would most effectively manage the timing piece of the puzzle ... any ideas?
However, how is the timing effected? The cam has a degree ground into it. If I go this route (100 dry and 150 DP progressively controlled), would I have to drive on all-motor with 5-6 degrees tuned into the ECM all the time? I don't want to lose street power/torque, so, what's the best way around it? Maybe a manual timing switch to use ONLY when I plan to hit the second stage? Not sure how I would most effectively manage the timing piece of the puzzle ... any ideas?
Pulling timing, that's the beauty of a dry shot, it doesn't effect n/a timing. There is a full write up on how to pull timing on a dry hit, only when spraying, in the links section of my web site.
You can even taylor a/f for spray (dry only) seperate from the n/a a/f. truly two tunes in one.
Robert
10-16-2005, 08:33 PM
#5
Good readin' man. I see your point ... looks like I've researched the options and come up with what I think will works best and is safest for my car IMO ... thanks to all the time and hard work others here have put into these great write-ups ... and thanks to Robert and guys like you who have made recommendations for me.
10-17-2005, 05:25 AM
#7
Well, I was holding off on throwing too much at my rearend and a dry shot would be affordable and hit a little softer. I can't do the DP 250-hit until I do a 12-bolt, tranny and driveshaft first, can I? I can't spend that kind of money on the drivetrain to support the DP setup. But, I see your point with a progressively-controlled 250 DP setup ... makes a lot of sense. Do you think I should just do the driveline stuff first? Then, I could throw the 250 DP at it.
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10-17-2005, 12:06 PM
#8
Yes as much as I hate to say buy something else.In my book the smart thing to do would be buy the components needed to handle the power.This way they do not break after you spend the money and then leave you in a bind. I know im a horrible sales man.LOL
Dave
Dave
10-17-2005, 12:46 PM
#9
My take is a little different, through a small dry kit on it right now. Then as you can afford it, upgrade the drivetrain. drivetrain and DP with progressive is going to cost many thousands,whereas, a small, run it right away, dry kit can be had for 350/500 dollars ready to go. Then later it can also be used for your timing pull. If I had the money for heavy duty drivetrain and DP prog. that's what I would have.
Robert
Robert
10-17-2005, 01:10 PM
#10
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It depends. Are you building an all out race car or a street car that will see the track once in a while? If it's the later you could always use the "run it until it breaks" approach.
Matt
Matt
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
Well, I was holding off on throwing too much at my rearend and a dry shot would be affordable and hit a little softer. I can't do the DP 250-hit until I do a 12-bolt, tranny and driveshaft first, can I? I can't spend that kind of money on the drivetrain to support the DP setup. But, I see your point with a progressively-controlled 250 DP setup ... makes a lot of sense. Do you think I should just do the driveline stuff first? Then, I could throw the 250 DP at it.
10-17-2005, 01:25 PM
#11
True a small dry will be easier on it.But if that is not what you are wanting to run.Then its money waisted.
You could do the small dry or a directport with out such a big shot with a progressive and then your spendings were still put towards your future plans.
Dave
You could do the small dry or a directport with out such a big shot with a progressive and then your spendings were still put towards your future plans.
Dave
10-17-2005, 02:05 PM
#12
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I say throw the direct port on it and limit the amount of power with the progressive controller (through the final power setting). I too seem to be of the "run it 'till you break it" mentality, haha.