nitrous pull....
#27
Originally Posted by gtobizman
1 hp gain from 100 to 150 looks like fuel starvation. Your MAF can only compensate so much.
#28
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
HUH???? you sprayin ahead of your MAF? Whenever you add or subtract nitrous, whether its with a jet change or increasing/decreasing pressure, it will lean or richen the mix.
I do agree with the colder plug for N2O, but the way it was referenced earlier just didnt make sense. Alot of people dont understand spark plug heat range.
I do agree with the colder plug for N2O, but the way it was referenced earlier just didnt make sense. Alot of people dont understand spark plug heat range.
Fuel system limitations were never a concern based on the data LastLT1 gave. So I still think it is timing and plugs. The bigger the shot, the less timing you want and the colder the plug you need to run. If the car is tuned for NA, most likely needs to have some timing pulled.
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For now, stay off the button till you get plugs. My tuner would not touch my car till I changed my plugs had at least 42s and upgraded the pump. You are SI so pump should be fine. All else is fine sounds like.
Keep the nozzles in the kit specified location. Seams to work well there.
Keep the nozzles in the kit specified location. Seams to work well there.
#30
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well, here is my input.
put tr-6 in there right away.
run 1100-1200 psi on the pressure (that ket needs pressure)
be very carefull with af on the dyno, you want it around 11.5- 12.1 on the dyno, that on a real pass will be close to perfect.
the jetting is not correct either, the 34 jet i believe is 125 at the motor so a 40 would be about40 more crank HP
timming will also effect HP.
pressure from 900 to 1100 will pick up about 25 hp if the tune is correct.
good luck
put tr-6 in there right away.
run 1100-1200 psi on the pressure (that ket needs pressure)
be very carefull with af on the dyno, you want it around 11.5- 12.1 on the dyno, that on a real pass will be close to perfect.
the jetting is not correct either, the 34 jet i believe is 125 at the motor so a 40 would be about40 more crank HP
timming will also effect HP.
pressure from 900 to 1100 will pick up about 25 hp if the tune is correct.
good luck
#33
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
Yes, in a wet system you are correct, but with a dry shot across the MAF, the MAF will read more air (cooler temps) and add fuel when adding nitrous and visa versa. Also, if the jets are pointed directly at the MAF wires it will read more rich. I have never heard anyone run dry after the MAF. Well except PatrickG, but he has a special SD tune that adds fuel and the bowling ***** to do it.
Fuel system limitations were never a concern based on the data LastLT1 gave. So I still think it is timing and plugs. The bigger the shot, the less timing you want and the colder the plug you need to run. If the car is tuned for NA, most likely needs to have some timing pulled.
Fuel system limitations were never a concern based on the data LastLT1 gave. So I still think it is timing and plugs. The bigger the shot, the less timing you want and the colder the plug you need to run. If the car is tuned for NA, most likely needs to have some timing pulled.
PS Get the bottle pressure up too. Pressure = power.....
#35
Originally Posted by Noyzee
well, here is my input.
put tr-6 in there right away.
run 1100-1200 psi on the pressure (that ket needs pressure)
be very carefull with af on the dyno, you want it around 11.5- 12.1 on the dyno, that on a real pass will be close to perfect.
the jetting is not correct either, the 34 jet i believe is 125 at the motor so a 40 would be about40 more crank HP
timming will also effect HP.
pressure from 900 to 1100 will pick up about 25 hp if the tune is correct.
good luck
put tr-6 in there right away.
run 1100-1200 psi on the pressure (that ket needs pressure)
be very carefull with af on the dyno, you want it around 11.5- 12.1 on the dyno, that on a real pass will be close to perfect.
the jetting is not correct either, the 34 jet i believe is 125 at the motor so a 40 would be about40 more crank HP
timming will also effect HP.
pressure from 900 to 1100 will pick up about 25 hp if the tune is correct.
good luck
#36
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Did anybody else have any problems with the site late yesterday? I posted a few times but when I looked they were never there. Very strange. Dang computer gadget thingys
#37
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Plugs have to do with being safe, not power when talking power adder.
The kit is rated at 950psi. No sense in going higher unless you want to avoid pill changes. I do it so I can not frown upon it, but I know what I am pilled for when I do it. If you put in more pill and raise the psi, you are going to have a much larger hit. Also, I have found that as the bottle gets lower, higher pressures take longer to reach if at all. So just go with the right pills. With 4lbs left in the bottle, it took FOREVER to reach 900psi. Under rated pressure.
The kit is rated at 950psi. No sense in going higher unless you want to avoid pill changes. I do it so I can not frown upon it, but I know what I am pilled for when I do it. If you put in more pill and raise the psi, you are going to have a much larger hit. Also, I have found that as the bottle gets lower, higher pressures take longer to reach if at all. So just go with the right pills. With 4lbs left in the bottle, it took FOREVER to reach 900psi. Under rated pressure.
#39
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Originally Posted by LastLT1
yea but isnt the limit on the 15lb bottle only like 1300psi?
#40
well i picked it up yesterday. changed the plugs to the tr6s and she runs tip top! had alil issue with the window switch interferring with the spark made by the plugs, but seemed to have fixed it. took her down the road for the first nitrous run and she definetly has some more *** to her now!! she pulls hard as **** in 4th gear too!!