BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

FJO Mini to power 1 stage, Progressively on my new Nitrous Outlet Direct Port with (2) nitrous solenoids and (2) gasoline solenoids. I choose to keep using my WOT switch as opposed to the TPS detection circuit and I use a trans-brake. My only question is whether or no the switched ground (Light Blue) from the FJO Mini Controller has enough capacity to support the current draw of the 4 solenoids it will be switching. If not we can add another relay? What is the Current (I) rating for the FJO Mini for each stage?
-- Macon

Oso SS

iTrader: (3)

If all wiring diagrams were that easy to navigate, I might actually want to wire stuff.

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

That's FJO stuff C/P all together. This is useful to know:

(Coming out of FJO) Thick Light Blue - Stage 1 Solenoid Ground
(Coming out of FJO) Thick Red - Stage 2 Solenoid Ground

These grounds activate when each stage is required to be "on". As well these, are the wires that turn ground off/on to pulse solenoids in the progressive mode. (The red or blue wires ground solenoids=on then open ground = off and repeat as needed ~ 16 hertz (adjustable)). That is why the relay sends 12 volts to solenoids at system arm = on.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Ok you spelled the name wrong.
The drivers in the box are rated for 40amps continous. 4 noids will exceed that rating.
Adding another relay will do nothing in this layout. All the amps will be going throu that light blue wire.
But I think you will be fine. You will only be on progressive mode a short time, and running quick ET's means less ON time.
This is also why you can get away with running 4noids on a 30amp relay. The low amount of ON time means the amount of amps you can run is higher.

Ricky

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Dont some selinoids draw more amps than others?

If they are only good for 40 amps per side and 4 noids draw more than that why would he want to "try it"?
Get a controller that is rated or made to handle what you are doing. Trust me I've been fighting these FJO's for 2 months now.

Like I said in the other thread Pro Flow has a 70 amp direct port controller, that is my next step at getting my car down the track. Only wish I found all this out 2 months ago, instead of going to the LSX race to watch I'd be taking my car.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Just wire in two relays to control the solenoids. Run Identical wires for both relays. take the white wire to both relays at the same post(control wire to post 86) Ground 85 on both relays. Then run the System power(battery) to post 30 on both relays.

Now run one fuel and one N2o Solenoid to each relay at post 87.

You have spead the load across two relays now

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Maybe it will work for you maybe it wont.
It didnt work for me, hopefully it will for you.

The thing that sucks is spending $250 and the time wiring everything (twice)to find out.
Then spending more money and time finding something that does work.
I'll be talking to the guys from Nitrous Pro Flow at the LSX race, I'm sure they will have something that will work FOR SURE .

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

You have doubled your relay count that is true, and normally that would double you load capacity, but the progressive box is controlling your the ground to the solenoids. So all the amps must pass through that box. Even if each noid had its own relay, your solenoid ground will still be going through the box.
40amps continous duty, can handle much more power, but a briefer amount of time.
And you really donot want to run one side on blue and the other on red, the box has load balancing in place. Meaning while cycling;
red is on when blue is off, and blue is on when red is off. Etc...

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Interested in what did not work, and which noids where you using, and which box.
mini progressive is just over 200 not 250.

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Naw I do not think that will not even activate. if it did you just killed your box, by direct shorting the fjo to HOT.
I think you ment to run your noids to 30, 87 to ground, 86 to white, and 85 to our fjo blue. But this would be slow and not really a progessive and could create a bad noid issue.

After wiring do a simple test to confirm all is well and firing. Recommend on any wiring layout.

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

It seems like some of us (me) are always trying to build a better mouse trap. I swear it's worse on the internet where we are all smarter than we are necessarily. I always seem to do better when I leave the experts in charge of expert things.

I deleted my "redraw" just to try to keep anyone from trying it. I admit I didn't really think that much about that one. I was just trying to take some current off the FJO.


Ricky - I'd love to know if you have any suggestions as to a better way to run a 4 solenoid progressive system. I'll guess the mini controller was really designed for a pair of solenoids more than for a stack of 4 larger ones. I had good luck with the mini with my old plate system, but i'm not married to it.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ricky, isn't the 40 amp rating just a max amp load that you could see, not nessicarily max on all set-ups? Meaning, Macon may not even see a 40 amp draw? make sure all gounds are mucho good and connections all soldered. Also, there are controllers out on the market that are designed to handle four big noids per stage, but not supporting this site.

Ellis, what is an LTX?
Robert

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

why couldnt you run one set on blue and one set on red? The load balance will allow this correct? Since only two noids will be activated at any one time it should not exceed the load capacity.

And depending on how its setup it seems that doing 4 noids (two sets) this way would actually double the modualton rate of fuel/nitrous going into the dist block. That could be a good thing?

If you have one set of noids running one bank and one set on another bank the operation would still be nearly identical to all noids being on the same modulation phase.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

LSx = LS1, LS2, LS6, etc
LTx = LT1, LT4, LT5, etc

we were not invited to come play in Memphis so we set up our own race

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Macons 4 noid system should se around 60amps of draw.
Every mfg. specs the relays differently. some say 40/30 or 50/40 etc. Meaning normally open handle one type of load and the other number is normally closed load.
From what I have seen must rate there relays by the higher number which is the normally closed circuit. Now the rating is for continous duty, meaning that relay should handle that amp load for life with out burning or arcing out the contacts.
Now seeing how we nitrous guys are only using nitrous for 11seconds or less, you can get away will more amps. Yes the relays life is cut down due to the arcing from higer amps. How much not sure, but I have relays from the 80's that still work.nod:


The driver is 40amps per stage. The load balance is to aid in the feedback spike that happens when the noids are cycling.
Direct port firing one bank then the other, been there done that is not pretty. I would not recommend it.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

gotcha...what was the issue you were having in doing this?

NXRICKY

iTrader: (1)

Well just did some good-ol chit chatting, bringing me up to speed with this controller, since I left. LOL
The OLD controller had load balancing, OLD being 1st gen.
These new boxes can and will handle 4 noids no problem. Both channels will be on and off at the same time. The drivers are badass rated over 40amps. Load is not the problem nope not at all. The problem is the return spike evertime the noid is turned off. But 4 noids on 12volt systems, no problem.
Your-n like flin.

So I would run 4 noids with out even thinking about it, on one wire. And 2 more on the other wire, before I started even worring about it.
And then it has nothing to do with the drivers. Lets face it that 12ga black wire can only handle so many amps. LOL

So put that 4 noid on and letRchew.....

Hey wheres that beer.

Rick

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Ray i was just busting Ellis's *****. We are in the same car club and race at the same tracks. he has one of the fastest street/strip cars in the NW, and it's ltx, lol.
Robert

BadAssFast

iTrader: (2)

Thanks -
Re beer: If your old home address is the same as two years ago ?