Is a relay needed?
#4
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i used the wiring for stock rear window heater, its setup with the correct amp relay and is easy to wire up. I just use the element and took one wire to a ground and the other to the plug at the heater strips. It also works on a timer so that it will shutoff before it gets too hot
^^off of robert's car
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#8
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A pressure switch and a relay are less than the cost of a refill, do it right the first time.
If you get distracted or forget you have the heater on, your likely going to blow the rupture disk, and need to refill the bottle, save yourself the trouble and potential risk. If you spray and the pressure is to high, your gonna be lean, and potentially can blow the motor, again a risk not needed for the cost of some general safety/convience type items.
If you get distracted or forget you have the heater on, your likely going to blow the rupture disk, and need to refill the bottle, save yourself the trouble and potential risk. If you spray and the pressure is to high, your gonna be lean, and potentially can blow the motor, again a risk not needed for the cost of some general safety/convience type items.
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when using the rear window defogger (pic is of my setup), you have to have the key in the on position. if you can trace the lead wire, then switch it to a 12 volt battery lead. this way, you can turn it on without the key in the on position.
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I am going to be wiring the whole kit on Tuesday.
I know I can use one relay for the kit and the purge.
Not correctly you can't
Do I need a relay for the bottle heater? One relay for each function, relays are only $8-10/ea
It is a cold fusion bottle heater without the pressure switch.
Thanks for the help.
I know I can use one relay for the kit and the purge.
Not correctly you can't
Do I need a relay for the bottle heater? One relay for each function, relays are only $8-10/ea
It is a cold fusion bottle heater without the pressure switch.
Thanks for the help.
See bold above
#13
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First Iwas replying to him saying he was gonna use 1 relay to operate the nitrous kit and the purge.
Now I'm not comfortable using a 8-10Amp rated switch (if using the large instant pushbutton style) contact for a 12-16Amp instantanious load. As it allows contact pitting/burnishing problems much faster if the switch contacts can hold up to it. If you or the original poster anre content with that, then that is your perogative and we each are allowed our own choices.
#16
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I would recommend a relay due to how much amperage the heater pulls, but like JL WS-6 said you could do away with the relay just make sure you have enough fuse to support it. IF you decide to put a relay on it look for a 40a Constant w/ 60a max load relay.
-Chris
-Chris
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Purge = no. you don't really need a relay. Your switch may get warm if you hold it on for extended periods of time.
Heater = What happens when you don't use a relay is that your heater will work, just not as hot/as fast as it could. The current is what is needed for the heater. The window tap above isn't a great idea.. just cheap and quick. Run a nice big fat 8 or 10 awg wire back to the heater relay. Put a 30 amp fuse on it near the battery. Keep the line from the relay to the heater short. Then you'll get the most out of your heater. The activation side of the relay, pins 85, 86 can be small wires (18 awg).
Heater = What happens when you don't use a relay is that your heater will work, just not as hot/as fast as it could. The current is what is needed for the heater. The window tap above isn't a great idea.. just cheap and quick. Run a nice big fat 8 or 10 awg wire back to the heater relay. Put a 30 amp fuse on it near the battery. Keep the line from the relay to the heater short. Then you'll get the most out of your heater. The activation side of the relay, pins 85, 86 can be small wires (18 awg).