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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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Default Is a relay needed?

I am going to be wiring the whole kit on Tuesday.

I know I can use one relay for the kit and the purge.
Do I need a relay for the bottle heater?

It is a cold fusion bottle heater without the pressure switch.
Thanks for the help.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:16 AM
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Yes, use a relay. And why are you not using a pressure switch?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jetlag
Yes, use a relay. And why are you not using a pressure switch?
It did not come with one.

I'm just gonna watch the gauge lol

So, I need a relay.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:24 AM
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i used the wiring for stock rear window heater, its setup with the correct amp relay and is easy to wire up. I just use the element and took one wire to a ground and the other to the plug at the heater strips. It also works on a timer so that it will shutoff before it gets too hot


^^off of robert's car
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 01:04 AM
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PM'd for more info
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 01:41 AM
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Is there anyway to wire the kit, purge, and bottle heater to one relay?
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 02:30 AM
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no, each relay has a specific ampere rating.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 06:03 AM
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A pressure switch and a relay are less than the cost of a refill, do it right the first time.

If you get distracted or forget you have the heater on, your likely going to blow the rupture disk, and need to refill the bottle, save yourself the trouble and potential risk. If you spray and the pressure is to high, your gonna be lean, and potentially can blow the motor, again a risk not needed for the cost of some general safety/convience type items.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 06:39 AM
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I didn't bother with the relay or the pressure switch. If you're paying attenion you don't need the pressure switch, and the relay isn't needed either as long as you fuse it properly
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 07:50 AM
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when using the rear window defogger (pic is of my setup), you have to have the key in the on position. if you can trace the lead wire, then switch it to a 12 volt battery lead. this way, you can turn it on without the key in the on position.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by krazy4
I am going to be wiring the whole kit on Tuesday.

I know I can use one relay for the kit and the purge.
Not correctly you can't
Do I need a relay for the bottle heater? One relay for each function, relays are only $8-10/ea
It is a cold fusion bottle heater without the pressure switch.
Thanks for the help.

See bold above
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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No need for a relay on the purge, you're only hitting it for a second or 2, that being said you don't have to really relay that, a pushbutton switch is fine.

Don't overcomplicate things.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
No need for a relay on the purge, you're only hitting it for a second or 2, that being said you don't have to really relay that, a pushbutton switch is fine.

Don't overcomplicate things.

First Iwas replying to him saying he was gonna use 1 relay to operate the nitrous kit and the purge.

Now I'm not comfortable using a 8-10Amp rated switch (if using the large instant pushbutton style) contact for a 12-16Amp instantanious load. As it allows contact pitting/burnishing problems much faster if the switch contacts can hold up to it. If you or the original poster anre content with that, then that is your perogative and we each are allowed our own choices.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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I have never used a relay for the purge or the heater. Just the correct fuse for the heater. I do have the hole kit on a power distribution relay though but the switch is supplying the hot for both purge and heater. Use a good switch and good wire.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 09:55 AM
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I've had the pushbutton supplied with a Nos purge on my car for over a year, no problems.

Do what ya want doesn't matter to me, but I've been an electronics guy for 15 years, and have wired enough stuff so I think I know what's safe and what's not.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Chris@NitroDaves
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I would recommend a relay due to how much amperage the heater pulls, but like JL WS-6 said you could do away with the relay just make sure you have enough fuse to support it. IF you decide to put a relay on it look for a 40a Constant w/ 60a max load relay.

-Chris
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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I used 10 guage wire, 20 amp fuse and a 30 amp rated switch. Heater gets good and hot, and the wires even after 20 min of being on aren't, I think it's o.k.
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Purge = no. you don't really need a relay. Your switch may get warm if you hold it on for extended periods of time.

Heater = What happens when you don't use a relay is that your heater will work, just not as hot/as fast as it could. The current is what is needed for the heater. The window tap above isn't a great idea.. just cheap and quick. Run a nice big fat 8 or 10 awg wire back to the heater relay. Put a 30 amp fuse on it near the battery. Keep the line from the relay to the heater short. Then you'll get the most out of your heater. The activation side of the relay, pins 85, 86 can be small wires (18 awg).
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Old Aug 4, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I used 10 guage wire, 20 amp fuse and a 30 amp rated switch. Heater gets good and hot, and the wires even after 20 min of being on aren't, I think it's o.k.
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