painter question
12-29-2011, 09:19 PM
#1
painter question ok i have never painted a car and i wont to try i am very good with my hands and can learn anything and do anything when i get a brain fart lol but i need a car painter to tell me is it really that hard to paint a car for ur first time
12-29-2011, 09:43 PM
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www.autobody101.com
Great place to start.
Oh, and not to bust your *****, but your post would get more attention from pros with some sentence structure....
Great place to start.
Oh, and not to bust your *****, but your post would get more attention from pros with some sentence structure....
12-29-2011, 09:46 PM
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it isnt to bad as long as you study the proper techniques.i.e. proper sanding,blocking,masking,tools, air pressures ect.
if you need to fix dents or damage youll need sanding blocks,sandpaper,filler,putty and primer.possibly grinder according to how severe the damage is.
it would be a good idea to find a old hood or fender put some dents in it,then repair it and paint.
you wont have a good paint job without good prep and masking techniques.
tell us about the car,do you have body tools,paint gun and a decent air compressor,is their damage,clear pealing,or just wanting to get fresh paint or a color change?
their are also plenty of threads of others doing this that may be helpful.
if you need to fix dents or damage youll need sanding blocks,sandpaper,filler,putty and primer.possibly grinder according to how severe the damage is.
it would be a good idea to find a old hood or fender put some dents in it,then repair it and paint.
you wont have a good paint job without good prep and masking techniques.
tell us about the car,do you have body tools,paint gun and a decent air compressor,is their damage,clear pealing,or just wanting to get fresh paint or a color change?
their are also plenty of threads of others doing this that may be helpful.
12-29-2011, 09:56 PM
#4
98 ss camaro clear coat is pealing who ever painted the car before there is runs in it and every tool u just named except a dent pulling tool my car may have 3 dings total but i just wont the car fresh and like thats nice the car is black and i wont balck matilic
12-30-2011, 06:50 PM
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If you just have a few dings that are small all you probably need is some putty, I suggest evercoat putty.
Sand the dings down with 180 inside the ding also. Sand about 3" or so around the dent. Blow the dust off then mix your putty. You can get a filler/putty board with tear off paper sheets and a speader at any paint store or get a piece of cardboard spread some putty evenly across the cardboard and sand smooth with 320 on a DA.
Spread the putty filling the dents as smooth as you can. Sand the putty once it's dried with 180 with a sanding block and feather out the edges till smooth, you may need to swipe with putty again until the dent is completely filled.
On the peeling clear sand with 180 past the area that is pealing then feather the area out with 320 on a DA.
Then your ready to primer. Blow off and spray the primer a few inches past the repaired areas.
Once the primer is dry, block sand with 320 and use guide coat( lighty spray some black spray can paint over the primer once it's dried and when you block it will show any high or low spots).then sand the primer down again with 500 wet. Sand the rest of the car down smooth with 500 wet or 600 on a DA.
Of coarse you need to take the belt moldings door handles,bumpers,lights ect. off the car before hand. After you sand with sand paper use a grey scuff pad and scuff all the edges,you want the car to look dull with no shiny spots.
Blow the whole car off then wipe with wax and grease remove( in the jams and the whole outside of the car also).now your ready to mask the car off.
You'll need 1 1/2" masking tape 2-3 rolls probably.some 18" masking paper also and some 3/4 in tape.You can also get some foam tape that 3m makes for the door jams ect.
After you get it masked up. Wipe it with a damp clean cloth with water, then wax n greese remover again then blow the whole car off again. You're ready for paint.
Practice with your paint gun on something like a used hood first to get the hang of useing it. Usually around 25-30 lbs of air pressure, the fluid needle adjusted all the way out hold the trigger in and screw back in till it starts pushing the trigger out. You should spray on a piece of cardboard or something and adjust the fan till it has an even spray pattern from top to bottom. From about 6-8 inches back from what you are spraying. If you use sealer use a dark grey/black sealer wait 5-10 min and spray your base coat medium wet coats at a 50-75% overlap. With a black metallic 2-3 coats. Wait 5-10 min in-between coats,then 2-3 coats of clear medium wet 5-10 min in-between coats also. Before you start to paint you need a tach cloth to wipe the dirt/dust off with, use after sealer and after each base coat after it has dried(flashed) of coarse. Try to keep the area your painting in around 70 degrees and keep it that way for aleast a few hours after your done clearing( clear stops drying around 55 degrees)
After a few days of drying you'll be ready to buff.
Hope this helps!
Sand the dings down with 180 inside the ding also. Sand about 3" or so around the dent. Blow the dust off then mix your putty. You can get a filler/putty board with tear off paper sheets and a speader at any paint store or get a piece of cardboard spread some putty evenly across the cardboard and sand smooth with 320 on a DA.
Spread the putty filling the dents as smooth as you can. Sand the putty once it's dried with 180 with a sanding block and feather out the edges till smooth, you may need to swipe with putty again until the dent is completely filled.
On the peeling clear sand with 180 past the area that is pealing then feather the area out with 320 on a DA.
Then your ready to primer. Blow off and spray the primer a few inches past the repaired areas.
Once the primer is dry, block sand with 320 and use guide coat( lighty spray some black spray can paint over the primer once it's dried and when you block it will show any high or low spots).then sand the primer down again with 500 wet. Sand the rest of the car down smooth with 500 wet or 600 on a DA.
Of coarse you need to take the belt moldings door handles,bumpers,lights ect. off the car before hand. After you sand with sand paper use a grey scuff pad and scuff all the edges,you want the car to look dull with no shiny spots.
Blow the whole car off then wipe with wax and grease remove( in the jams and the whole outside of the car also).now your ready to mask the car off.
You'll need 1 1/2" masking tape 2-3 rolls probably.some 18" masking paper also and some 3/4 in tape.You can also get some foam tape that 3m makes for the door jams ect.
After you get it masked up. Wipe it with a damp clean cloth with water, then wax n greese remover again then blow the whole car off again. You're ready for paint.
Practice with your paint gun on something like a used hood first to get the hang of useing it. Usually around 25-30 lbs of air pressure, the fluid needle adjusted all the way out hold the trigger in and screw back in till it starts pushing the trigger out. You should spray on a piece of cardboard or something and adjust the fan till it has an even spray pattern from top to bottom. From about 6-8 inches back from what you are spraying. If you use sealer use a dark grey/black sealer wait 5-10 min and spray your base coat medium wet coats at a 50-75% overlap. With a black metallic 2-3 coats. Wait 5-10 min in-between coats,then 2-3 coats of clear medium wet 5-10 min in-between coats also. Before you start to paint you need a tach cloth to wipe the dirt/dust off with, use after sealer and after each base coat after it has dried(flashed) of coarse. Try to keep the area your painting in around 70 degrees and keep it that way for aleast a few hours after your done clearing( clear stops drying around 55 degrees)
After a few days of drying you'll be ready to buff.
Hope this helps!
