Engine bay rust removal tips/tools?
01-09-2017, 01:16 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine bay rust removal tips/tools? I am doing an engine swap soon and wanted to knock off some rust from the engine bay and seal it before putting the engine in.
- What is the best way to go about doing this? Use a wire wheel or a disc?
- What tools are best and what part number wheels/sand paper grit are needed?
- What is the best way to seal it?
01-17-2017, 06:07 PM
#3
It all depends on how bad the rust is. If it is really bad, removing the engine and sand blasting will work. If it is very light rust, I will use a right angle air grinder to get the bulk of it off, then I will wet scrap pieces of rags or fabric, soaked in acid (milkstone, used to clean dairy stainless and in pop) and lay the rags onto the rust, making sure that it doesn't dry, until the rust is gone and then wiping is clean and using wax a grease remover before primer and paint.
I have a bucket of the acid deluged with water in my basement that I will let rusted tools or small parts in before I paint them. Depending on the metal, you may not want to leave the parts in for multiple days. I have come back to find half of my tool gone.
We use this acid on many cars and I am doing it on spots of my floor before I paint the floor. I would go the sand blasting route but I am not tearing my car all apart and cutting my welded subframe connectors out. We also use this after sand blasting because when blasting, you don't get every last bit of rust out of the pits which can come back and haunt you in the future. It's great for small spots. I suggest wearing gloves because after a few days of touching the stuff, the skin on your hands start to peel off
I have a bucket of the acid deluged with water in my basement that I will let rusted tools or small parts in before I paint them. Depending on the metal, you may not want to leave the parts in for multiple days. I have come back to find half of my tool gone.
We use this acid on many cars and I am doing it on spots of my floor before I paint the floor. I would go the sand blasting route but I am not tearing my car all apart and cutting my welded subframe connectors out. We also use this after sand blasting because when blasting, you don't get every last bit of rust out of the pits which can come back and haunt you in the future. It's great for small spots. I suggest wearing gloves because after a few days of touching the stuff, the skin on your hands start to peel off
01-23-2017, 01:06 PM
#5
1st remove anything in the way
2nd clean/ remove rust scale
3rd apply Ophspo (it chemically changes iron oxide to iron phosphate)
4th use a good 2 part primer and paint
Here are some pictures of a customers car he had a show car but never raised his hood because of the way his engine bay looked
2nd clean/ remove rust scale
3rd apply Ophspo (it chemically changes iron oxide to iron phosphate)
4th use a good 2 part primer and paint
Here are some pictures of a customers car he had a show car but never raised his hood because of the way his engine bay looked
01-23-2017, 08:40 PM
#6
1st remove anything in the way
2nd clean/ remove rust scale
3rd apply Ophspo (it chemically changes iron oxide to iron phosphate)
4th use a good 2 part primer and paint
Here are some pictures of a customers car he had a show car but never raised his hood because of the way his engine bay looked
Attachment 564500Attachment 564499Attachment 564498
2nd clean/ remove rust scale
3rd apply Ophspo (it chemically changes iron oxide to iron phosphate)
4th use a good 2 part primer and paint
Here are some pictures of a customers car he had a show car but never raised his hood because of the way his engine bay looked
Attachment 564500Attachment 564499Attachment 564498