squirrels

It seems like I lost an O2 sensor today...it's only reading like 50mV and not switching. Might be the wiring, but I'm afraid the snow/ice bopped it since the headers hang so damned low. I was throwing P0135 and P0155 for a while because I have headers with no cats and it's farking cold here...but today I got P0131 (low voltage) and confirmed that the darned thing just isn't getting a good reading.

Now I've got the rear O2s still sitting there. I deactivated the codes for them a long time ago when I pulled my cats.

I know they're a different part (the front vs the rear O2s), but can you interchange them? It'd save me $100 for a new sensor. Are the rears heated? Will they provide good readings?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I've switched them before. No problems from doing it, no codes or any other issues....

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

One out of the four has a shorter wire harness on it, but they all function the same and can be interchanged.

SSN8R

I believe they are all the same replacement part. You can change them.

Good Luck,

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

The only difference from GM is that left to right are different numbers. But from what I've read they are interchangeable like the others have said.

squirrels

Is there any truth to the statement that the rear O2s have a stronger heating element so putting them up front can stop P0135 and P0155 codes for long-tube cars when it gets cold?

Also, I've had the codes for them disabled for a while (I've been running no-cats)...are they likely to go bad? (the only way to know for sure would be to plug 'em in, but I can't do that right now)

One last thing...how long can I run in limp-mode (speed density) before I risk hurting the engine. A friend of mine said something about washing the rings after a few weeks like that. It doesn't seem all that rich (a little, you can tell), but it idles kinda shaky in gear. I'm not sure with the ice and all how long it's gonna be before I can get on a lift and take a look-see.

I A-TAPped it today...looks like as it warms up the voltage drops down under 100mV and doesn't really get back up (it does sometimes when I'm idling, but when I'm warm and underway, it just drops to almost nothing). The passenger-side switches between about 200 and 800 mV, so I guess that one's OK.

THanks
-Mark

SSZSLP

Only difference between them,is that one of them has a shorter lead ,everything else is the same and yes they can be interchanged

jmX

On a C5, the rear o2's do supposedly have a stronger heating element (they also have different connectors) so the vette guys sometimes will get an adapter harness and run the rears up on the front after putting longtubes on.

On the F-body, they all have the same connector, and may all have the watt rating as well for the heater.