Car ran fine, drove fine then died...now it won't start.
06-05-2011, 12:42 PM
#1
Car ran fine, drove fine then died...now it won't start. I just got done doing a cam swap. Started it for the first time yesterday, it ran fine and sounded fine. Let it run for about 15min to make sure everything was good, but while it was running my SES light was blinking. I decided to take it down the road, only made it 4 blocks from my house and the car just died and would not start at all. Does anyone have any ideas?
Trending Topics
06-08-2011, 05:00 PM
#10
9 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Chicago
Posts: 782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it's the wire I think it is then yes! It'll kill the car from running by interrupting the power being fed back to itself. This is how we wire our rear mounted battery kill switches. Alternators require a field current to produce electricity. Without it there's no power and your car dies!
The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning light fails or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no excitation current reaches the alternator field windings and so the alternator, due to low residual magnetism in the rotor, will not generate any power.
I hope this makes sense. I'm an electrical engineer so sometimes I make folks have that far away look in their eye.....LOL
The wire supplying the field current is often referred to as the "exciter" wire. The drawback of this arrangement is that if the warning light fails or the "exciter" wire is disconnected, no excitation current reaches the alternator field windings and so the alternator, due to low residual magnetism in the rotor, will not generate any power.
I hope this makes sense. I'm an electrical engineer so sometimes I make folks have that far away look in their eye.....LOL
06-08-2011, 05:54 PM
#11
Is the little red wire on the alternator referred to as the "exciter" wire?
I hooked my computer up to it just a little bit ago to get some more information. The first code that popped up was U1088 - Loss of Communications with SDM. Then i got codes U1000 and B1000.
I hooked my computer up to it just a little bit ago to get some more information. The first code that popped up was U1088 - Loss of Communications with SDM. Then i got codes U1000 and B1000.
06-09-2011, 07:15 AM
#14
Try disconnecting the battery, than cycle the key to drain all power. Reconnect the battery and see if it starts. My friend had a blinking SES light in his GTO when his cam bolts backed off, it was screwing with the cam position sensor. Check your cam position sensor. What timing chain did you use?
06-09-2011, 10:05 AM
#15
Try disconnecting the battery, than cycle the key to drain all power. Reconnect the battery and see if it starts. My friend had a blinking SES light in his GTO when his cam bolts backed off, it was screwing with the cam position sensor. Check your cam position sensor. What timing chain did you use?
06-09-2011, 10:31 PM
#20
The car has no fuel and no spark. HP Tuners isn't getting any tach signal and no other signals from the cam sensor...nothing. I tried 2 other PCM's and that didn't help any. All the hot wires and ground wires going into the PCM check out fine. I have no idea what is wrong....The previous three codes do not show up now but a different one has shown up but i can't remember, something like C0188 but i'm not 100%.