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Can a 40-100 O2 reading cause an 80 hp loss?

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Old 10-04-2011, 02:41 PM
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Default Can a 40-100 O2 reading cause an 80 hp loss?

In short, I shipped my car to a sponsor. The car made 427/415. with a 223/230 cam and 243's and LT's at 26*. When i got the car back though it only makes 350 rwhp. the air/fuel goes up to 15:1 The tuner says that he sees that there is a problem in bank one. usually it's a 40 mv difference. I have changed spark plugs, coils, wires and o2 sensors on that side and the problem remains. I checked the grounds too.He says that's why the car is lean and loosing 80 hp. My old cam had two really bad spots and the lifters weren't changed because the shop said they used a boroscope. I was thinking the old lifters have now ground into the cam. The problem is, I don't hear anything bad even with valve covers off. The car has no codes. The timing is set to 21 now but the tuner said it didn't make a difference. I don't want to pull a good motor with no smoke or problems if I don't have to. Just wondering what your thoughts are.
Could it be the cam?
the 26 to 21*?
What gives?
Lastly I can literally feel the car in third when it looses power as if I hit a limiter around 5000 rpm. but limiter is 6800.
Old 10-04-2011, 03:35 PM
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Wow. A sponsor here handed you back a car in that shape? Lifters should have been replaced.

When you say it feels like it hits a rev limiter at 5 grand, does it break up? Or does it just nose over and loose power?

I would start by checking your fuel pressure, then check to make sure you're running on all 8 cylinders. There's several ways to do this. Best way is with a temp gun, check the header temps.

What diagnostic tools and equipment do you have to work with?
Old 10-04-2011, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
Wow. A sponsor here handed you back a car in that shape? Lifters should have been replaced.

When you say it feels like it hits a rev limiter at 5 grand, does it break up? Or does it just nose over and loose power?

I would start by checking your fuel pressure, then check to make sure you're running on all 8 cylinders. There's several ways to do this. Best way is with a temp gun, check the header temps.

What diagnostic tools and equipment do you have to work with?
I don't have a temp gun but I can buy one or borrow one. . I never knew the car was running like this until our track finally opened 3 months later. The car feels strong down low but i guess 350 hp on street tires is strong. They say the car wasn't like that when it was shipped back. I can't dispute it. I foolishly never set foot in the shop.I shipped the car both ways. Anyway. I'll check the cylinders. Is there anything else that I should look for. I hate to trash this motor. But if it were to blow up. buying a 408 would be no problem. I just hate wasting my money.
Old 10-06-2011, 09:14 AM
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If you are running 15 to 1 a/f ratio that is way lean. Lean is hot and very bad. You should be running in the 13 to 1. LS engine make best power at 28 deg timing. If you fix the timing and air/fuel you will make alot more power.
Old 10-06-2011, 11:44 AM
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Wait what does o2 sensor voltage reading while at WOT have to do with you losing 80hp again?

Could've sworn that o2 sensors don't matter while WOT because the car goes into open loop and relies on MAF frequency reading and VE for fueling?
Old 10-06-2011, 12:09 PM
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if you dont have a temp gun you can put some water on the pipes and see if it sizzles off.. something like a cheap squirt gun haha
Old 10-06-2011, 01:33 PM
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As a sanity-check-rule-of-thumb-only, at WOT your front NBO2 sensors should be reading close to or above 900mV...

if they read less, then something is wrong, either:
- the NBO2 sensors are bad (which has no relevance to the topic),
- the AFR is way too lean;

[ of course, always check the AFR with a wideband ]

The AFR being lean and the spark timing being too low may possibly account for losing 80 HP...

question: was spark timing set low because engine was knocking (probably due to lean AFR)...?
Old 10-06-2011, 01:35 PM
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A temp gun is fairly cheap from Sears or Harbor Freight.
Old 10-06-2011, 08:32 PM
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Results driver side front to back:
250/247/268/220
Passenger side front to back:
200/248/277/253
Now I'm really confused, I just assumed that the old bad lifters had eaten into the new cam and caused a change in the profile. Even with a stethescope, I cant hear bad lifters though. Also my tuner said the problem is with bank one so I've changed, plugs, wires and coil packs all on bank one(driver side, I assume).
However, the coldest cylinder is on the passenger side.
At WOT, my reading are bank one 924, bank 2 959 on street 985, 1016 on a dyno pull. I think a spark plug wire may have been unplugged on that run though. I'm not sure. Car made 350 and went way lean on a dynojet. However the dyno sheet that the sponsor gave me had it making 424/414 on a mustang dyno.
As for timing, the cam is a 223/230. They said it made 427/404 at 26* but when I asked to pull timing for nitrous, It made 424/415 so that's where they left it and shipped the car back.
Old 10-06-2011, 08:40 PM
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[QUOTE=edcmat-l1;15468266]Wow. A sponsor here handed you back a car in that shape? Lifters should have been replaced.

When you say it feels like it hits a rev limiter at 5 grand, does it break up? Or does it just nose over and loose power?

I would start by checking your fuel pressure, then check to make sure you're running on all 8 cylinders. There's several ways to do this. Best way is with a temp gun, check the header temps.

What diagnostic tools and equipment do you have to work with?[/QUOTE/]

Also, it seems as if the car hits a plateau, and stops pulling early somtimes.then sometimes it pauses and picks up.
Old 10-07-2011, 12:18 PM
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any opinions on the temp reads?
Old 10-07-2011, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RealLiveMD
any opinions on the temp reads?
cylinders #2 and #7 appear to be running a little cooler, not by a large amount, but enough to indicate a possible problem.
Old 10-09-2011, 08:46 AM
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check out this file. At 5900 in 3rd gear, there is actually a 300mV difference. This is the power loss I feel when driving, then the car starts to pick back up. It seems as if the lobes of the cams were eaten then the loss would be there all the time. Please guys if there is anything that comes to mind let me know. The coldest cylinder is actually on Bank 2 which accourding to the o2 readings is the good side of the motor.
Could a ground affect one side of the motor?
Does it appear to be a tuning problem?
I don't know the next steps to take.
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
coils.hpl (13.4 KB, 57 views)
Old 10-09-2011, 08:52 AM
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more evident at 5900 3rd gear on this one
Attached Files
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full run.hpl (13.0 KB, 71 views)
Old 10-09-2011, 10:56 AM
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I think it's a mechanical problem. If the original cam had flat spots (intake or exhaust lobe?) the lifters should have been changed as well or at the very least pulled and inspected before the new cam was installed. Based on the temp gun readings, I would pull the cam and lifters for inspection or further inspect the valve train for those two cylinders. Do you have pics of the old cam?
Old 10-09-2011, 05:07 PM
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I would log current misfires in the scanner. Looks like there is a misfire happening on bank 1.

Russ Kemp
Old 10-09-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Russ K
I would log current misfires in the scanner. Looks like there is a misfire happening on bank 1.

Russ Kemp
new to hp tuners, how do I log current misfires. i know there is no check engine light.

Pics of the cam enclosed. Blue marks show the two beat up lobes. Just not sure which cylinder they coincide with.
Old 10-09-2011, 10:36 PM
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pictures won't upload tonight for some reason.




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