adjusting tranny shift points and what not
03-09-2004, 07:44 AM
#2
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Rev limiter to 6200 (unless you have upgraded valvetrain)
Shift RPM to 6000 (I use 5900 on the 1-2 for a little slack)
Shift MPH to {whatever doesn't hang you up} I have 3.32s and shift at 41, 82, 125
Firmness/Pressure to +15%, +25%, +25% (1-2 doesn't need so much, wheelspin)
Shift Time -15%, -25%, -25% (you could go full negative if you wanted)
tweak it from there (esp the MPH numbers, depending on gear and rubber,
converter etc.).
Shift RPM to 6000 (I use 5900 on the 1-2 for a little slack)
Shift MPH to {whatever doesn't hang you up} I have 3.32s and shift at 41, 82, 125
Firmness/Pressure to +15%, +25%, +25% (1-2 doesn't need so much, wheelspin)
Shift Time -15%, -25%, -25% (you could go full negative if you wanted)
tweak it from there (esp the MPH numbers, depending on gear and rubber,
converter etc.).
03-09-2004, 07:47 PM
#4
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For the gear, tire, converter combo there is a
MPH and RPM match.
My philosophy is this -
1) Rev limiter for safety - if you don't know any better,
don't go over 6200.
2) RPM to barely clear the rev limiter, but consistently.
Give it a couple of hundred RPM, maybe more on the
1-2 if you've got a light slippery torque converter or
more power. If you set the MPH values low, the RPM
will control the upshift. So you can dial it as close as
you want, but leave a little room for slop.
3) MPH to barely clear RPM
The MPH linkage to RPM is not very consistent. The
throttle position (power output) against converter slip
can make a difference of several hundred RPM at speed.
If you program a higher MPH than the equivalent RPM,
the shift may hang "unsatisfied". So you want to creep
the MPH up from their low setting until you feel them
start to change the true shiftpoint (upward). Then back
off the MPH by 1 or two, and try it at full, 3/4, as low
as you can go and still have WOT (Pred display will show
static 0.00 LTFT numbers in WOT), make sure you don't
ever hit the rev limiter and you're good to go. On a 3.23
car set up this way 41 MPH 1-2, 82MPH 2-3, 125MPH 3-4
are OK by my experience. On a 2.73 car this would be more
like 48, 97, 125 (you would want to go higher, but tough
luck, Predator limit.
I would set the firmness and adaptation time params first
because these affect shift cycle timing and how much slack
you need to reserve against the rev limiter.
MPH and RPM match.
My philosophy is this -
1) Rev limiter for safety - if you don't know any better,
don't go over 6200.
2) RPM to barely clear the rev limiter, but consistently.
Give it a couple of hundred RPM, maybe more on the
1-2 if you've got a light slippery torque converter or
more power. If you set the MPH values low, the RPM
will control the upshift. So you can dial it as close as
you want, but leave a little room for slop.
3) MPH to barely clear RPM
The MPH linkage to RPM is not very consistent. The
throttle position (power output) against converter slip
can make a difference of several hundred RPM at speed.
If you program a higher MPH than the equivalent RPM,
the shift may hang "unsatisfied". So you want to creep
the MPH up from their low setting until you feel them
start to change the true shiftpoint (upward). Then back
off the MPH by 1 or two, and try it at full, 3/4, as low
as you can go and still have WOT (Pred display will show
static 0.00 LTFT numbers in WOT), make sure you don't
ever hit the rev limiter and you're good to go. On a 3.23
car set up this way 41 MPH 1-2, 82MPH 2-3, 125MPH 3-4
are OK by my experience. On a 2.73 car this would be more
like 48, 97, 125 (you would want to go higher, but tough
luck, Predator limit.
I would set the firmness and adaptation time params first
because these affect shift cycle timing and how much slack
you need to reserve against the rev limiter.