am I missing anything?
06-15-2004, 09:41 AM
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am I missing anything? Is there anything that I am missing when asking a shop what all it looks at when doing a custom tune:
1. make low octane table match the high octane table
2. change fans to come on at 190
3. get rid of the skip shift- I have a 6M
4. a/f ~13.0 or as close as possible to it
I understand that depending on your mods you will need to have an idle betwen 800-1000 rpm. But other than that those listed above is there anything else that I would need to ask about when determining if I have a good tune or tuner?
1. make low octane table match the high octane table
2. change fans to come on at 190
3. get rid of the skip shift- I have a 6M
4. a/f ~13.0 or as close as possible to it
I understand that depending on your mods you will need to have an idle betwen 800-1000 rpm. But other than that those listed above is there anything else that I would need to ask about when determining if I have a good tune or tuner?
06-15-2004, 10:19 AM
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I would want to know whether I had any KR going
on before I blind-copied the high table to low. If
you are already running interpolated between the
two, in the summer heat, you may be making some
trouble. I would copy but maybe scale back the
advance a little bit (less than the gross stock
difference but leave a little room for bad gas etc.).
Need to log to know.
Then I would want them to push the high table
to onset-of-KR-minus-1. However a dyno tune
place will only "see" the high-MAP (high dynamic
cylinder air) cells and may not get your mid-
throttle timing to "best". This is one place where you
are better off buying the tool than hiring the work,
because it takes real street time. Maybe they will
do some 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 throttle pulls and could make
a smoothed spark table that covers the envelope
better than a WOT-only one. But time is money.
For a M6 I think these are definitely the top things
to hit, can't think offhand of any other "musts". On
an A4 there is a lot more to fiddle with.
on before I blind-copied the high table to low. If
you are already running interpolated between the
two, in the summer heat, you may be making some
trouble. I would copy but maybe scale back the
advance a little bit (less than the gross stock
difference but leave a little room for bad gas etc.).
Need to log to know.
Then I would want them to push the high table
to onset-of-KR-minus-1. However a dyno tune
place will only "see" the high-MAP (high dynamic
cylinder air) cells and may not get your mid-
throttle timing to "best". This is one place where you
are better off buying the tool than hiring the work,
because it takes real street time. Maybe they will
do some 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 throttle pulls and could make
a smoothed spark table that covers the envelope
better than a WOT-only one. But time is money.
For a M6 I think these are definitely the top things
to hit, can't think offhand of any other "musts". On
an A4 there is a lot more to fiddle with.
Originally Posted by pushinfreight
Is there anything that I am missing when asking a shop what all it looks at when doing a custom tune:
1. make low octane table match the high octane table
2. change fans to come on at 190
3. get rid of the skip shift- I have a 6M
4. a/f ~13.0 or as close as possible to it
I understand that depending on your mods you will need to have an idle betwen 800-1000 rpm. But other than that those listed above is there anything else that I would need to ask about when determining if I have a good tune or tuner?
1. make low octane table match the high octane table
2. change fans to come on at 190
3. get rid of the skip shift- I have a 6M
4. a/f ~13.0 or as close as possible to it
I understand that depending on your mods you will need to have an idle betwen 800-1000 rpm. But other than that those listed above is there anything else that I would need to ask about when determining if I have a good tune or tuner?
06-15-2004, 10:51 AM
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It is running the stock tune in it and the a/f right now is ~12.5 as read on a dyno this weekend. When you say logging on the street is there anything in particular that I would want to look at? Also, with the mirroring of the low/high octane tables, are you saying that the low tables should have values slightly less than the high table for example 10% to allow for bad gas. I understand that the 10% is a ficticious number but is this the right direction?
06-15-2004, 10:54 AM
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I see in your sig that you have the slp 85 mm maf. I also have one but it is not on the car right now. Have you been able to see any improvement over the stock maf? I thought it did nothing when I had it on w/stock tune. Most of what I have read is inconclusive on if it improves or not.