ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Hi, its been a while since I've posted here. I have spent the last few evenings searching the forums for my no start fix.
The camaro sits in my driveway and gets driven once a month, maybe less. It was fueled up 6 months ago. Last week I tried starting it after sitting for about 2 months and the battery was dead as ususal. I charged it and it fired up for about 3 seconds and died. First time it has ever done that. The fuel gauge was stuck on E, but then jumped up to near full, where I believe it is. I added a few gallons just to be sure. It will crank continuously, but will not fire up since that one short start. I took off the fuel line at rail and ran a hose to make sure fuel was coming out of rail. It sprayed hard into a can I had it hooked up to. The car has a racetronics fuel pump which I can hear when I turn the key. No security lights on, so I dont think its a key issue, and it cranks. I installed a new ignition relay as well. Next I changed the fuel filter. Still nothing. Next I bought a fuel pressure tester. When I first turned the key it read 10psi,but when I turn the key off and on again it jumps to 50. It is also at 50 while cranking. Next I bought 2 spark testers. One was an inline type, which failed to light up while cranking. Second was similar but had a fake spark plug to check for spark. Neither lit up. I then checked the pins on coil harness as I read here. Pink was 12v and second or third pin was supposed to read power when cranking I believe, but didnt. I havent checked for injector pulse as not sure how yet. I just went ahead and ordered a crank position sensor, hopefully the issue and not a waste of $50.00. The car has timing tuner, lean shut down swith, FPss not sure if any of that matters. I checked all that I know how so far. I thought maybe rain got into the PCM, maybe one of the large lightning storms fried something, just random thoughts.

Thanks for any help.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

If it is a Vats issue, would the starter still work? Just thinking about it while waiting for crank sensor to come in.
Thanks

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Yes it will.

If you hook up a good Diagnostic scan tool, Look for an RPM signal while cranking. This will tell you if the crank sensor is reading.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

You need an Item called a noid light to verify the injectors are firing. It will flash while cranking.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. I've been out of the racing scene too long. Need to get this thing running again. I will try to locate the needed items you mentioned and let you know how it works out over the next week.
Thanks again
Jay

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I want to say a local "chain type" auto parts store should carry these but I know they differ from state to state.

You can even get them from harbor freight.

This is one video I found on you tube showing how they work.

joecar

Assuming it's your 1998 Z28, this may help:

Engine cranks but does not run

sreve

iTrader: (3)

A 194 bulb works as a poor man's noId light. bend the wires up to fit in the injector harness.
element in the bulb won't draw enough to hurt anything.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Well I replaced the crank position sensor today.No change unfortunately. Car just cranks without firing. I tried the inline spark tester again today and it doesnt light up. I wonder why it fired up for a few seconds that one time and then never again?Also unplugged MAF but no change. I just dont have enough high tech equipment to test everything. Any thought where to check next for spark issue or do I need professional help?
Thanks

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Without the proper tools I think you will need professional help.

Otherwise your just going to waste money throwing parts at it.

I am not sure what would cause it but it sounds like a possible V.A.T.S. issue.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

I keep going back to vats as well. I was watching youtube and some were saying Vats disables the starter, whereas mine turns over. I will get a scan tool, either borrow or buy a cheapish one and grab a noid light while at Harbour frieght tomorrow.
Thanks for help so far.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

V.A.T.S does not disable the starter on these cars. It cuts spark or fuel.

It will run for 2 seconds and shut off.

I had this happen on a reconstructed vehicle. It ran at first and a few times after with no issues. Then started the no start condition. I had to disable the vats in the tune to confirm. After disabling vats to confirm, I then had it complete reflashed.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Awesome info, thanks. I will see if I can accomplish the resistor bypass(mod) after a bit more research. That helps explain how it started one time and ran for a couple seconds then never again maybe. I dont believe I have any security lights on though, need to verify.
Thanks

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I did not have any lights nor did I have any codes and I have a real Tech 2.

Fortunately I have tuning software and was able to disable the vats.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Well, another fail. I tested the key and came up with 680 ohms. Went to Radio shack and got the exact one needed. spliced it into the purple and white wires as shown. Still same condition. As a test I totally left the circuit open unplugged and no resistor. That created the VATS to kick in for real. Security light was flashing as well as red dash light, but also to my surprise the Starter was disabled. Maybe the 98's disable the starter or some do some don't? So this rules out VATs unfortunatly. Now time to get the noid light and scanner.
So to sum up
Fuel filter new
Fuel pump racetronix
Fuel PSI 50 while cranking
New Crank position Sensor
Vats OK
No apparent Spark( used questionable inline tester)
Next test noid light and scanner.

joecar

Verify that rpm is present during cranking, i.e. see that rpm shows a valid reading on a scanner.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Ok so I bought an inexpensive scanner, a Innova 3040c. It had good reviews and live data streaming. I went out Xmas day and plugged in scanner using an extension cable. It would not connect to my PCM. I removed the extension just in case. Still didn't connect. Then cycled the key, unplugged a few times. Eventually it connected and I entered my car info. At first I was playing around and checking for codes. Then checked battery, which it said was low. I had no codes but hit erase button anyways. Now time to check for rpm during cranking. Well the battery was dead so I hooked up the charger. All ready to test and the car fired right up??? Rpms were staying at 1200 for some reason. I was so happy. I can't explain why it started though.
Today I go out and start it up . Back to cranking only. So I hook up the charger and try to get scanner to connect. It makes it to 96% and says error every time. Failure to establish connection. That's what it was doing the first day but got lucky then.
I'm stumped. Could a faulty battery cause this or PCM toast?
Scanner is working properly as I tried it in my truck with no issue
Thanks

joecar

Sounds like a grounding problem.

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Update.
Very bizarre. Every time I went out to start it, the battery was dead so I would put it on 50a jump mode, give it a minute and try with no luck. One day I was working around the house so I decided to put it on slow charge for the day so I could mess with it with a full battery that afternoon. Well sure as ****, that afternoon I hooked up the scanner and it connected right away. Turned the key and it fired right up. It has fired up every time since the charging. I dont understand how it could crank but not fire with a booster but then fire with full charge battery? Ground in battery? Either way, happy its running but have 2 more issues. First it idles at 1200 rpm all the time. By searching sounds like it may be a vacuum leak, will test with carb cleaner spraying around hoses as some mentioned..
Second new issue is PO353. coil 3 circuit malfuntion. It drives like its missing, so real issue.
Should be straight forward fixes I hope.
Thanks for help so far.
Jay

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Update 2
Swapped coil 3 and 4 around and cant get code to come back on but its driving like its on 7 cylinders. Maybe I screwed up a plug while driving while misfiring?
Idle dropped back down to 800 for some reason which is close to where it should be.
Can anyone post what the Live data scanner should be reading for all the different categories ie. MapHg, Shftb1 or whatever they are.
Thanks