Converter Stalling problem ,Need Help with HP Tuners
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Converter Stalling problem ,Need Help with HP Tuners
Ok here is the scoop normal driving stop light to stop light is not a problem,But if I break stall My Yank 4000 at a light ,say bring the rpms to around 2000 and let off the gas the cars wants to stall?What do I need to look at and what to fix with HP Tuners???Thanks again for all the help...
Scott
Scott
Last edited by Pro Mouse; 11-13-2004 at 09:55 AM. Reason: left out info
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Once you leave the idle TPS you get the throttle follower
going, and the rate at which that releases when you lift
will "perturb" the idle loop which I guess you have only gotten
marginally stable. You should probably work a bit more on the
idle mixture, idle airflow (set to slightly higher than your logged
MAF g/sec airflow, at happy idle) so that idle settles clean
and can tolerate some perturbation. Reducing the throttle
follower/cracker decay rate can make the settling from open
throttle to idle gentler enough that the idle IAC loop can get
a grip before crashing but I think it's still mostly about the
core idle character, less about the transition (though, a light
converter also just lets RPM fall a lot faster than the stock
idle loop ever had to deal with).
I would keep on playing with the idle mixture (VE / OLFA) and
keep yourself a map / notes, so you can discover the real
"sweet spot" (best, most stable idle). That means some time
spent off in the weeds, trying out places you don't want to
be in order to find out where the boundaries of "good enough"
are, and then try and put yourself smack in the middle.
going, and the rate at which that releases when you lift
will "perturb" the idle loop which I guess you have only gotten
marginally stable. You should probably work a bit more on the
idle mixture, idle airflow (set to slightly higher than your logged
MAF g/sec airflow, at happy idle) so that idle settles clean
and can tolerate some perturbation. Reducing the throttle
follower/cracker decay rate can make the settling from open
throttle to idle gentler enough that the idle IAC loop can get
a grip before crashing but I think it's still mostly about the
core idle character, less about the transition (though, a light
converter also just lets RPM fall a lot faster than the stock
idle loop ever had to deal with).
I would keep on playing with the idle mixture (VE / OLFA) and
keep yourself a map / notes, so you can discover the real
"sweet spot" (best, most stable idle). That means some time
spent off in the weeds, trying out places you don't want to
be in order to find out where the boundaries of "good enough"
are, and then try and put yourself smack in the middle.