1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

If the front O2 sensors are shut off, can you still get a signal to run an air fuel ratio gauge? Do the 02's need to be operating to get a signal from them or do they need to be in line with the pcm?
Thanks for your help in advance guys...........
__________________
2000 Pewter Vert. Stock block/heads, 1.85" SLP Valve Spring and rocker kit, LS6 intake, P1SC @ 6 psi, M-6, 0Z700 series clutch, 4:10's, QTP's & ORY, 1.8" sportline drop, Black Z06 wheels. 493 rwhp
More to come this spring

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Hmmmmmmmmm...what do you mean by shut off? Are they still there and you just aren't taking any of their feedback?

Either way, an AFR gauge that reads off of narrowband readings is gonna be useless to you...nothing more than a light show. Are you looking for actual info from this gauge to make sure you are running safe?

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

They are deleted. Like you delete the rears, well I'm running no 02 in the front either.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

??? WFT!!! Why are you not running front 02 sensors? Those are what keep your AF at 14.7 during closed loop normal driving. Please explain this to me.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

This is just the way my tuner set it up, I was a little confused when he did it. But he is setting up lots of cars this way and they are running hard and fast. It is just running a little rich around town and my timing is also fixed and doesn't change.
It's takes away the pmc control adjustments, it runs better than it ever did from factory.

I also found out that I can't just hook up a gauge to the o2 sensor, it won't work with my set up, not having them working up front. I need to buy a wideband controller to run it with true numbers not just a gauge sitting there at narrow band which is what the factory o2 are running.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

There are more than a few reasons for what he did, I'll let other people chime in that can explain it better.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Ok, I just dont see the point being that they are not used during WOT/PE. They are only used in closed loop normally. I guess the only ones that dont need them are the guys that are running open loop all the time.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, people around here were saying the same thing and that you can't run them that way. I'm not really sure but he is tuning cars with over 700rwhp and does the same thing to them so I'm not going to question his knowledge. Although I know if I go up in higher altitudes it will be a problem, so it's not your normal tune for an everday driver. When mines out its for a couple of reasons although I do enjoy just cruising around town and the response is great the fumes kinda get to you every once in a while .

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

There are many of us not running O2 sensors, me included. It ain't as hard as you'd think, and not as unstable as you'd think.

But the question remains...why are you wanting to hook an AFR gauge into a narrowband output?

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

But the question remains...why are you wanting to hook an AFR gauge into a narrowband output?[/QUOTE]


It's not really to monitor where it is running, it's more for if something happens (ie: an injector goes bad, etc. it will run lean in one bank and should show it on the gauge RIGHT??) I'll know where it is now and if the readings move on the gauge I know something is wrong and could lean out or start running richer because of a bad plug or something. Does that make any sense, I hope so because that was my thought when I felt I needed to set this up. Please advise if I'm out there!!!
But I found all this out, that I need to go with a wideband contoller system and still can use my gauge but I will be running another o2 sensor and wiring harness. Another $200 more than I expected but I think it's important to know this information.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Eh...still kinda a crapshoot with the AFR gauge hooked to a narrowband. Personally, I use an Innovate LC-1 with their XD-16 gauge. Works like a champ, and you never have to guess what the needles mean. Gauges for widebands can be had much cheaper though, I think through Dynotune.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

That's what I'm doing, I'm going with the LC-1 system that is made for the Autometer gauge I have the 4375. Are you saying the the gauge is no good or the I should go with a digital reading.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

That particular one looks like the typical narrowband AFR gauge. Not too sure what kinda input it can handle, so I have no idea if it will work for you. Most of those gauges are looking for a 0-1V input, whereas your LC1 operates over 0-5V. Now, you can set up the LC1 to output like a narrowband, but then again, you get the shitty resolution with it.

Dynotune sells an affordable digital gauge that would probably meet your needs...I'd recommend that over the gauge you currently have.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

I see what your talking about, This is what I was going to buy
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=151 Should I get a different gauge?? I was just using this one because it matches the other ones I have in the car, but performance is more important...
Thanks for the help

ESR

iTrader: (7)

Im curious besides the DTC what else needs to be shut off to eliminate the 02's reason being is Im haveing a problem with an STS car Im messing with. Basically during regualr driving one 02 will read +25 LT and the other will read -2 Lt yeah very weird. Sorry for thread hijacking but it seemed to kind fit since I had contemplated shutting these down.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Personally, I think this one would be of more use to you:

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=170

A light show is cool and all, but I like to know what the actual value is.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Well, with your LTFTs being that far off, make sure one of your injectors hasn't **** the bed on you first. If it is just the O2 sensor that is bad, that is a different story.

Basically, you have to do a full open loop tune...but you need a wideband to do this, preferably wired into your datalogger so that you get that stream of data added in to the rest of it. How familiar are you with SD tuning? That would be your first step...

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

I see what your talking about, when it says you need to set the output settings it will come with the disk and you can use a laptop to change that right.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yep...the LC-1 is programmable through your laptop's serial port. The Innovate setting from the factory reads from 7-ish to 22-ish AFR, which is outside of that gauge's capabilities to display. Re-calibrating the output in the LC-1 will take you all of about 5 minutes (most of that time spent just trying to get your laptop to communicate with it). Very straightforward though. You can do it by lambda or AFR, so you really can't mess it up. Just make sure you are messing with the right analog output, as there are two, and both are programmable.

1RADWS6

iTrader: (1)

Actually I think I can do this, I really appreciate all the help Steve. I hope I can hook you up sometime