dyno wideband vs my wideband??
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dyno wideband vs my wideband??
I dynoed today and was slighty richer an their dyno, about a half a point than what I got on my wideband. They said that the dyno wideband is more accurate than mine because everytime they fire up the dyno, their wideband has the ability to recalibrate itself to the current air. Anyone know about that??
Last edited by brad8266; 04-10-2006 at 05:54 PM.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
I dynoed today and was slighty richer an their dyno, about a half a point than what I got on my wideband. They said that the dyno wideband is more accurate than mine because everytime they fire up the dyno, the wideband has the ability to recalibrate itself to the current air. Anyone know about that??
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Originally Posted by jdaniels
Were the sensors in the same general location?
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What kind of wideband was used on thier dyno, and what kind of wideband do you have?
I would trust a NTK based AFM100 or Horiba sensor on a dyno, before I would trust a LC1/LM1 type bosch consumer level sensor. Being richer in a tailpipe is opposite what would happen if it was not as accurate. If it was leaner I would trust yours vs a tailpipe.
Ryan
I would trust a NTK based AFM100 or Horiba sensor on a dyno, before I would trust a LC1/LM1 type bosch consumer level sensor. Being richer in a tailpipe is opposite what would happen if it was not as accurate. If it was leaner I would trust yours vs a tailpipe.
Ryan
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My sensor is a Bosch. They were very close though. i am going back tommorow and logging the AFR with my wideband and laptop and will compare it with their wideband readings
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Originally Posted by BAIN
Your's would be more accurate since they stuck theirs in the tailpipe.
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I don't know about which one to trust.
What I'd worry about more is at what A/F ratio you made the most power on the dyno.
If theirs says 12.5 while yours says 13.0 and you're making the most power at that point, does it really matter what the "actual" number is?
What I'd worry about more is at what A/F ratio you made the most power on the dyno.
If theirs says 12.5 while yours says 13.0 and you're making the most power at that point, does it really matter what the "actual" number is?
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Originally Posted by silverTA2002
I don't know about which one to trust.
What I'd worry about more is at what A/F ratio you made the most power on the dyno.
If theirs says 12.5 while yours says 13.0 and you're making the most power at that point, does it really matter what the "actual" number is?
What I'd worry about more is at what A/F ratio you made the most power on the dyno.
If theirs says 12.5 while yours says 13.0 and you're making the most power at that point, does it really matter what the "actual" number is?
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Originally Posted by ls1408cp
Correct me if I am wrong but i thought on the street cars always run leaner. Thought I read that before
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If you are comparing a street run wideband to a dynojet wideband, the street should be roughly 0.50 af leaner since the DJ doesn't load the engine like the street. You should be closer than 0.5 if you run both widebands on the dyno at the same time.
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Originally Posted by onfire
If you are comparing a street run wideband to a dynojet wideband, the street should be roughly 0.50 af leaner since the DJ doesn't load the engine like the street. You should be closer than 0.5 if you run both widebands on the dyno at the same time.
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I do believe cars run richer on the Dynojets than they do on the streets. That's why tuners prefer Mustang dynos -- because the place a simulated load on the motor. That could be a part of it. However, did you ever check/adjust for any ground offset with your WB? If the WBO2 sensor is sending a voltage of 2.0V but the laptop is only reading 1.8V, that could account for the other part of the difference. Take an LC1 for example. AFR is roughly calculated by taking sensor voltage (V) times three (3) and then adding 7.35.
((V*3)+7.35)
If your sensor reports 2V, then that calculates out to be about 13.35AFR. But if your laptop is reading 1.8V due to offset, then it'll show as 12.75AFR in your log. If your laptop is reading 2.2V due to offset, then it'll show as 13.95AFR in your log.
Basically, this means your log will be off by +/-0.3AFR for each +/-0.1V difference between what the sensor is sending and what your laptop reads.
((V*3)+7.35)
If your sensor reports 2V, then that calculates out to be about 13.35AFR. But if your laptop is reading 1.8V due to offset, then it'll show as 12.75AFR in your log. If your laptop is reading 2.2V due to offset, then it'll show as 13.95AFR in your log.
Basically, this means your log will be off by +/-0.3AFR for each +/-0.1V difference between what the sensor is sending and what your laptop reads.