Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

Okay I've set up my LC-1 to input 0-5V through my EGR input and it works (at least it did the last time I logged data about 5 months ago). Now I'm trying to log AFR and EGR Volts just like last time w/ the same config and same tables and it's showing 0V for EGR constantly. I plugged into the LC-1 itself and using logworks I'm getting normal AFR readings so I know the LC-1/sensor is working. I checked the Output 2 which is plugged into my EGR input to the car and I'm getting 0V(verified w/ my multimeter). Anyone know why my LC-1 works but isn't sending an output signal anymore?
TIA

edit - just read volts using my multimeter directly off the output 2 brown wire from the LC-1 wiring harness and still reads 0V...is my output dead?

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Hello and welcome to my world.

Check out a thread I'm watching here
there are two of us that have similar issues, but the other fella actually sees voltage, sporadic voltage, but something.
Wer'e both also trying to use it as a NB.
Regardless, im seeing 0 voltage off of mine and a good AFR in logworks.

I just purchased mine in July, so I emailed Innovative today to see what they say.
I guess the liklihood of it being a faulty LC-1 unit is pretty high.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Wow, I just checked my email and I've already had a reply setting up an RMA
They may have had a bad batch of units, but their customer service is prompt.

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

yeah I just went on their forum and found out that it's probably faulty. I got mine for christmas last year so it's a good 9 mos old or more. What is an RMA?

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Return Merchandise .....agreement?
It basically means you send the bad one in, they send you a new or refurbished one.

I forget what the correct acronym is, its called something different for every place.

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

Oh good, can't wait to mess w/ that wiring nightmare again! Oh well, hopefully they'll do the same for me.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

Tell me about it, I soldered everything once already.
This time I think im going with crimps, cause I am NOT soldering under the car....ok....maybe I will.
This is too bad, its a really nice evening for onece this month and I can't drive....55...or at all.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

RMA = return merchandise authority.
I should be getting my new one this week. Odds are you guys have blown the DAC (digital to analog converter)....same thing that happened to mine. Innovate realized the problem and fixed it with resistors that protect the DAC from being overloaded.
I soldered everything too. It was sooooo hard to just cut my controller out of the car and send it off! It better frickin work this time!

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

Check out this thread on the Innovate forum.

I got mine over a year ago. The instructions say to ground the system gnd to the chassis. Now they say that's BAD, it could fry some component that does the analog out signal. Mine hasn't fried - I just changed the gnd connection, hope it wasn't damaged.

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

So did we do something wrong with our wiring, or was it bound to happen regardless. I don't wanna put myself in the position for this to happen again.

[edit] nevermind, reading linked thread on innovative[/edit]

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

What I was told by Klauss from Innovate was that to avoid this problem, your heater ground and system/analog grounds should be grounded to the same place, but on a different post. His recommendation/preference was to ground both to the engine heads, but on different studs. I assume you could do the heater on one head and the system/analog to the other head? I had my heater ground to chassis and system/analog to EGR ground. He also said that during engine cranking is when most of the surges that kill the DAC occur. This time around I'm wiring in a switch for the lc-1 so I can start the car and then activate the wideband as soon as I let off the starter.