SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Has anyone else done hooked up their LC-1 so that HPTuners reads through the EGR and the stock O2 harness? I want to use the wideband as a narrowband sensor and leave it permanently mounted too.

So far I've got:
LC1 Red to stock O2 pin D
LC1 Blue to stock O2 pin C
LC1 Yellow to stock O2 pin B
LC1 White to stock O2 pin A
LC1 Green to stock O2 pin A
LC1 Brown to EGR harness brown
LC1 black runs to one side of the pushbutton and LED, other side of pushbutton and LED run to stock O2 pin A

Can anyone verify if I'm on the right track here with how I've got this thing wired?

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Uhmm...I'd like to see you get this figured out but why start a new thread. Just ttt your old thread to bring it back to the top especially since there are a few replies in it already.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/538917-tried-hooking-up-my-lc-1-today.html

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I think I did just because I'm trying to go step by step rather than throwing a ton of info in one thread all at once, which is what I feel like I did in that other thread.

I guess if I start with how I actually hooked the LC-1 up and go from there maybe I can some more basic responses and get the thread to develop from there. But if anyone wants to read the other thread, you linked them to it.

And I guess I'm an impatient man when I have the whole damn day off of work with nothing to do.

Wednesday I might get a chance to climb back under the car...I was just feeling a little under the weather today or I would have re-wired some things and done some more testing.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

I know what you mean. I'm going through the same frustration trying to get my LC1 working as a wb and a nb consistently but I'm not connecting it to the egr. You are in unchartered territory it seems.

patSS/00

iTrader: (6)

I don't think LC1 green (analog gnd) is supposed to go to chassis gnd (O2 pin A). It should go to the gnd of whatever is getting the wideband signal, which in this case is the EGR gnd (black wire on the EGR harness). That's how mine's hooked up, which seems to work.

Do you have a connector that plugs to the EGR harness? I'm just using tape to hold the wires on, I think there's supposed to be a connector available?

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

So you have the green wire run to the black on the EGR harness and yours works? Huh. Ok. I will try this tomorrow and see what happens.
Do you also have it setup as narrowband too?

I do have a connector that Caspers made. It's the same 5-flat connector, it just seems a tad bit too big. They mate together just fine, but they're just a hair short of actually "locking" together. If you want, contact John and he can make you up one. He made me the EGR and O2 connector for $22 shipped.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

i dont have the pin numbers memorized, but heres the way id do it.

the LC1 power wire, goes to O2 sensor power, or some other ignition on power.
the thick LC1 ground wire is the heater ground wire. you want this on the chassis ground somewhere. you DONT want it in the same place as the other ground.

all of your other grounds, you can tie together, and connect to a PCM ground point. the passenger kickpanel screw, the back of the head where the other ground is, the EGR ground, ect..are good examples as long as its a clear ground to the PCM, its good. examples of poor grounds,that COULD work would be the chassis itself, engine block, grounds for other devices...ect.


the output you have setup as a narrowband, goes to your old O2 sensor signal wire. if im recalling correctly, output 1 is yellow. output 2 is brown.
the other wire goes to your EGR input wire.


once its all wired completely, re-connect the battery, and test.
first, use the serial cable and logworks to connect to the LC1. this way you know its working correctly.
if it is, then flash up your test settings for the O2s. setup the narrowband to be a flatline .5 volts, and the wideband to be a flat 5v....

now load up HPtuners, and set it up to scan both the EGR voltage and the O2 voltage.

after the wideband warms up, you should see 5V on the EGR and .5v on the O2... if not, start checking connections, moving grounds ect.... on the wideband 4.97 or better is fine.. digitally speaking,it goes in 0.019 increments. so if it reads that, its still a good connection. but any more off, and id start checking connectors and moving grounds...... all that said, i havent had an issue yet.


once you know its all hooked up correctly, flash up your settings for the O2s.
if you dont know what ones you will need, post up and i can lookup what worked for me...

you should be allset then.

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Got it. Pin D on the stock O2 harness.

I have it run to the stock O2 harness that supplies the ground for the heater, pin C.

I've got them all tied together going to the stock O2 harness low res, or pin A. From what I understand...this should work. Should be just like the EGR ground that you mentioned. If not, maybe I'll try the black EGR ground wire (so I can keep it all plug and play).

Yep.

I'm going to try all of this again and see what happens.
If it's a no-go, my first try will be running the green LC1 wire to the EGR ground black wire as was suggested.
If that still doesn't work, I may try running the LC1 white, green, and black all to the EGR ground black wire. Maybe pin A on the stock O2 harness won't work for the "ground" for these?

Part of the other problem is that I couldn't even get logworks to open. I kept getting a "serial port connetion" error. But LMProgrammer would open and work just fine. Not sure why.

When I would set the LC1 to flatline a voltage for me I could never get it to read right in HPTuners. Way off. So it has to be something with one of the grounds I'm using I guess. Or a problem with the LC1 unit itself?

You're talking about what to set up in the LC1, right?

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

the LC1 needs to fully warm up before it gives an accurate voltage. you can see the warmup cycle if you get logworks working. i suggest downloading and re-installing the latest version.. maybe that will fix your problem. btw, if theres multiple COM ports on the selection screen, be sure you try all of them before giving up.

assuming you know its warmed up, and its set to flatline, if HPtuners is still off, hookup a multimeter, and see if the cable is operating as expected.. this should let you know if its the cable or if its something on the car.

yup, what to setup on the LC1.


btw, i may be totally off on this, but i THOUGHT that the heater ground wire on the stock O2 was PCM controlled... if you still get weird readings, id try putting that to a different ground.

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I thought you could tell if the LC1 was fully warmed up if the LED went solid too?
What can I check on the cable to make sure it's working? Not sure how to do that.
I could have sworn that some others on there were successfully using the stock O2 harness for power and ground for the LC1 heater...? Joecar comes to mind, amongst others.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

The LED will flash for about 15-20 seconds when the LC1 is first turned on. Then the flashes will speed up for a few seconds and then will go solid after the sensor is warmed up...if all is well.
There are a few diagrams around showing the power and ground connected to the stock O2 connector, that's how I have/had mine. soundengineer has his diagram showing the power connected to another 12volt source (cig lighter power) and the heater ground going to a different ground (cig lighter ground). His diagram seems to be more accurate than HPT's own. Go figure. His setup isn't installed permantley, so be careful if using the cig lighter for power since it's on all the time and not switched. Doubt you would be doing that anyway since all your wiring is under the hood. Sure wish HPT would create their own wideband setup and get some sort of standard going.

(soundengineer's diagram)
http://www.audiohelix.com/tuning-documents/lc1/lc1.htm

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Then all must well cause I get a solid LED.

That diagram that soundengineer has is what I based my wiring off of...other than the hot and ground for the heater. The way he has system ground, analog ground, and calibration is basically how I have mine if you remove the EIO from the equation.

Tomorrow night I'm going to see if I can't get Logworks to open and see if it is registering a good AFR. If it is, then something is messed up with my wiring that inputs into HPTuners. Then I'll start doing a little re-wiring and see what happens.

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Key on, engine off. O2 sensor exposed to free air.

No matter what I set the LC1 to flatline (.5 volts, 2.5 volts, 5 volts) for the wideband, HPTuners sees something different at the EGR connector. Sometimes 1.33, sometimes 3.39, sometimes just 5.0 volts.
If I set the LC1 to flatline (.25 volts, .5 volts, .75 volts) for narrowband...it seems to work.

I went into my program and made sure that EGR was enabled, but there must be something else keeping it from reading the right voltage.

Logworks opens and works fine now too.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Did you ever get this setup to work? I'm looking at possibly using the EGR connector that Caspers offers but you said it didn't fit together to well. Is that still the case? What's the other end of the connector have, an 02 connector?

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

I think something is wrong with my LC-1...so no I didn't get it to work.
The EGR connector is just a tad bit bigger it seems, but it does lock together no problem...just gotta "push" it.
The other end of the connector is bare wire to run to the LC-1. You would run the brown wire off of the LC-1 to the brown wire in the stock EGR wiring.
Both connectors I got from Caspers work perfect, but these LC-1's are just junk.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

I've been watching this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/542516-lc-1-users-come.html , sounds like it might be similar to your situation. Waiting to see if it was a bad or flaked out LC1. Looks as though Inovate knows about the problems with these thing getting fried and will replace it with a fixed model that's not such a pansy little wuss like the first units that were put out.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

yea, mine died on me too..
the company i bought it from, DynoTune, offered to check and replace it... ive just been too lazy to mail it back...

DirtyJohn

iTrader: (8)

This is disheartening, i still have my LC-1 sitting in the box waiting to be setup just like this.
Now I'm thinking I should just send it back before I even install it.
Is there any way to tell the wussy ones from the ones that don't fry out right away?

SICK WS 6

iTrader: (7)

Yeah...if it says Innovate on the box it's probably one of the bad ones.
I'm going to try and call them today, if I get a chance, and see what they say.

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

LOL! Sad but true. Let us know what they say.