Knock Real or false?
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Knock Real or false?
How do you tell if you are getting false knock or real knock reports? Also how do you go about desensitizing the knock sensor tables safely? I am planning on stroking my engine within the next year. Everything I have read says you have to desensitize the knock sensors if you are going to use forged pistons? True false
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ok, if it's false ( I'm alittle on the fat side wide open.) how do I adjust the Knock sensor tables to desensitize, to stop the reporting? I know where the tables are. Should I make slight adjustments. I don't think I would ever hear any knock over the exhaust unless it was really bad. I was woundering if anyone has done this ,and if so how they went about it? And if anyone that had stroked there car had any problems with false knock?
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I was just trying to gain an understanding of all that will be needed to do this build. I have read it needs to be done in several different publications, but never have I seen how to go about doing it. Just trying to get my ducks in a row.
#6
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De-tuning the knock sensors could be bad, or fatal to your motor. My friend had a mail order tune and it was knocking so much it burned one of the pistons. Those sensors are your friend, they will save the motor. I have forged JE pistons with 11.5:1 compression. I use 50% 104 octane race fuel (@$8.95/gal) and 50% Chevron super. On the road race track 25 minutes at a time it knocks constantly at 28, a lot at 27, sometimes at 26, maybe once per run at 25. If those were false knocks, it would still be knocking at any setting.
If I had it to do over again, I would run flat top pistons to lower the dynamic compression so I could run 100% pump gas.
If I had it to do over again, I would run flat top pistons to lower the dynamic compression so I could run 100% pump gas.
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So it sounds like you had no false knock, thats good to hear. It looks like I will be 10.6.1 with 64 cc heads. I was think of getting it up to 11, but I haven't made up my mind yet. This car has been very finiky with knock with the stock 10.1.1. I wont boar you with the details. Hopefully I wont have to touch the knock sensor tables. Thanks for your input!
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#8
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Good Luck Man. Check your dynamic compression. There is a magic number like 9.6 or something that should be safe on 92 octane. Be safe, race fuel is a pain to get in 5 gallon containers @ $8.95 and going out of site.
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I wont touch those tables until I gain a better understand of how to go about doing it ( if it will have to be done) I was hoping to find that out here. How do you check dynamic compression? Dynamic air I have seen in the scanner I think. I'm at work now so I dont have the Hp stuff in front of me. I'm thinking of taking the efi 101 class, but I'm not sure how helpful it will be. I should start another thread and see how many have, and if the would recomend it. I thought I saw one positive read.
I have run a mix of 100 (best I can get here) and 91(premium 50/50) in the past, but it seems to be hard on the O2's. I am now running on premium with a slightly altered timing table. She's ok now but I think it will be difficult to manage after the build. Also it seems I have dropped.1 to .2 off my 1/4 mile time with the 91. I need somemore time at the track to say for sure, and then this whole false knock real knock needs to be worked out.
This got a little long.
I have run a mix of 100 (best I can get here) and 91(premium 50/50) in the past, but it seems to be hard on the O2's. I am now running on premium with a slightly altered timing table. She's ok now but I think it will be difficult to manage after the build. Also it seems I have dropped.1 to .2 off my 1/4 mile time with the 91. I need somemore time at the track to say for sure, and then this whole false knock real knock needs to be worked out.
This got a little long.