warp_6

iTrader: (2)

How do you tell if you are getting false knock or real knock reports? Also how do you go about desensitizing the knock sensor tables safely? I am planning on stroking my engine within the next year. Everything I have read says you have to desensitize the knock sensors if you are going to use forged pistons? True false

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Log and note recorded KR, add some race fuel, rinse & repeat. If the race fuel takes care of the KR it's real.

warp_6

iTrader: (2)

ok, if it's false ( I'm alittle on the fat side wide open.) how do I adjust the Knock sensor tables to desensitize, to stop the reporting? I know where the tables are. Should I make slight adjustments. I don't think I would ever hear any knock over the exhaust unless it was really bad. I was woundering if anyone has done this ,and if so how they went about it? And if anyone that had stroked there car had any problems with false knock?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I'm not cutting you short, but it's kind of pointless to answer at this point. You will be doing ground-up retuning going from stock to a setup like that. Determine it's false for sure, then work on sensitivity.

warp_6

iTrader: (2)

I was just trying to gain an understanding of all that will be needed to do this build. I have read it needs to be done in several different publications, but never have I seen how to go about doing it. Just trying to get my ducks in a row.

racecar

De-tuning the knock sensors could be bad, or fatal to your motor. My friend had a mail order tune and it was knocking so much it burned one of the pistons. Those sensors are your friend, they will save the motor. I have forged JE pistons with 11.5:1 compression. I use 50% 104 octane race fuel (@$8.95/gal) and 50% Chevron super. On the road race track 25 minutes at a time it knocks constantly at 28, a lot at 27, sometimes at 26, maybe once per run at 25. If those were false knocks, it would still be knocking at any setting.
If I had it to do over again, I would run flat top pistons to lower the dynamic compression so I could run 100% pump gas.

warp_6

iTrader: (2)

So it sounds like you had no false knock, thats good to hear. It looks like I will be 10.6.1 with 64 cc heads. I was think of getting it up to 11, but I haven't made up my mind yet. This car has been very finiky with knock with the stock 10.1.1. I wont boar you with the details. Hopefully I wont have to touch the knock sensor tables. Thanks for your input!

racecar

Good Luck Man. Check your dynamic compression. There is a magic number like 9.6 or something that should be safe on 92 octane. Be safe, race fuel is a pain to get in 5 gallon containers @ $8.95 and going out of site.

warp_6

iTrader: (2)

I wont touch those tables until I gain a better understand of how to go about doing it ( if it will have to be done) I was hoping to find that out here. How do you check dynamic compression? Dynamic air I have seen in the scanner I think. I'm at work now so I dont have the Hp stuff in front of me. I'm thinking of taking the efi 101 class, but I'm not sure how helpful it will be. I should start another thread and see how many have, and if the would recomend it. I thought I saw one positive read.
I have run a mix of 100 (best I can get here) and 91(premium 50/50) in the past, but it seems to be hard on the O2's. I am now running on premium with a slightly altered timing table. She's ok now but I think it will be difficult to manage after the build. Also it seems I have dropped.1 to .2 off my 1/4 mile time with the 91. I need somemore time at the track to say for sure, and then this whole false knock real knock needs to be worked out.
This got a little long.