12V at 6000 RPM NA and 11.8V at 5300 RPM N2O
11-17-2006, 03:22 PM
#1
12V at 6000 RPM NA and 11.8V at 5300 RPM N2O I have been posting in some of the other sections regarding ths problem and am not getting anywhere.
Here is the quick recap:
My nitrous power band was really ugly on the dyno and looks as though the solonoids are clsing on me. I scanned the a few passes at WOT and noticed that I was dropping voltage to 11.8 at 5300 on the spray and 12V at 6000 NA. I went out and bought a new Optima yellow top. Scanned the car and the same thing. Went out and bought a new alternator, put it in, scanned and same thing. Cleaned all of my grounds and even added a ground from the block to the k member. Scanned and same thing. I took the car to a local autoparts with a load tester and under a load it would drop to about 12.5V. The guy told me that it could be a bad regulator on 2 alternators in a row. To the old alternator to a local electrical shop and they bench tested it under a load and no problem found. They told me that the single red wire coming off the harness that plugs in to the alternator on the top is used so that the computer can tell the alternator to shut down if there is an excessive load. He thought that the problem could be there.
So my question is, is that what that wire does? How do I resolve this? How can I determine how much load is being put on the alternator at the above referenced RPM's and why? Suggestions......Ideas........?
I am open to just about anything.
Here is the quick recap:
My nitrous power band was really ugly on the dyno and looks as though the solonoids are clsing on me. I scanned the a few passes at WOT and noticed that I was dropping voltage to 11.8 at 5300 on the spray and 12V at 6000 NA. I went out and bought a new Optima yellow top. Scanned the car and the same thing. Went out and bought a new alternator, put it in, scanned and same thing. Cleaned all of my grounds and even added a ground from the block to the k member. Scanned and same thing. I took the car to a local autoparts with a load tester and under a load it would drop to about 12.5V. The guy told me that it could be a bad regulator on 2 alternators in a row. To the old alternator to a local electrical shop and they bench tested it under a load and no problem found. They told me that the single red wire coming off the harness that plugs in to the alternator on the top is used so that the computer can tell the alternator to shut down if there is an excessive load. He thought that the problem could be there.
So my question is, is that what that wire does? How do I resolve this? How can I determine how much load is being put on the alternator at the above referenced RPM's and why? Suggestions......Ideas........?
I am open to just about anything.
11-17-2006, 09:04 PM
#2
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I'm no automotive eletrical guru, but it sounds like a bad solenoid or open relay causing a draw or extra load on the system. You mention load testing twice, so I assume you had a shop load test the entire system with the car running. This is the only way to really test the actual load, not removing components for bench testing. Generally this can help pinpoint suspect components or shorts. I also can't see .2 of a volt causing that problem, because that should be within tolerance. But maybe nitrous is different.
The small, single red wire that connects to the alternator provides voltage to the electrical system when the engine is running.
The small, single red wire that connects to the alternator provides voltage to the electrical system when the engine is running.
11-19-2006, 10:46 AM
#3
Got it worked out. I think that it is normal for the voltage to drop under the heavy load. I have not verified it on another car. Perhaps someone could. Anyway, it was something very obvious. It was my plugs. When I originally put the motor together I had a different cam in there. That cam was installed a tooth out and I had some pretty severe detonation. I could have sworn that when I switched the cam I switched the plugs from the TR55i's to the TR6's. Well, apparently, I didnt. Soooooo we pulled a plug and saw a 57 gap with a severly pitted plug. It seems that I was blowing out the spark at 5300RPM on the nitrous and the reason that the fuel was leaning out rather than getting richer is that I wasn't burning the fuel, It was coming out raw thru the tail pipes and thus not reading on the wideband.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.