How Tight Are Your Wheels?
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just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue
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just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue
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I was under the impression that 16" rim is a 16" rim
I just put a 99+ Rear under my 93, and the stock 16"s cleared just fine, as do the stock 5 spoke 16"s I put on.
Caliper grinding DOES need to be done for 15" rims to fit though.
You can see here where the_merv did it:
I just put a 99+ Rear under my 93, and the stock 16"s cleared just fine, as do the stock 5 spoke 16"s I put on.
Caliper grinding DOES need to be done for 15" rims to fit though.
You can see here where the_merv did it:
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#8
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just a thought but i remember reading how LT1's won't accept LS1 wheels without modification of the wheels to allow for a sligtly larger calipor or something? could it be that your running larger LT1 style wheels or aftermarket wheels on your LS1 and thus the wheels are slightly too big and thats why you can move them? just a hunch but it seems logical to me based on the modifications that need done to LT1's... although the ZR1's on my car bolted right on and have been there for 3+ years w/o issue
The problem I think you are refering to is the rear hubs are manfactured slightly larger on the LT1s. The differance is about the thickness of a human hair. So, what you do is grind off the differance on the wheels where it goes over the hub.
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in order to get a proper answer, it helps to ask the proper question.
yes.. a little is normal.
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thanks.
#14
Well, that's certainly a relief. When I was at the Meineke shop, the guy said that the slight play means I should replace the bearings and that if I drive it like this for more than a week, I could risk damaging the rear end... But then, at another Meineke shop, they told me that you're supposed to have a slight play anyhow. Thanks for the confirmation, BadGTho and Z28/2002.
I was worried about this because I thought it might be causing the faint tapping sound I hear when I start to brake. I know it's not the brakes, and since the axle play doesn't have anything to do with the bearings, could the bearings themselves cause a tapping sound when braking, or would the shocks be the more likely candidate?
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bad rear wheel bearings make a whirring, to a dull sandy noise when they start to go.
the tapping when on the brakes could be the track bar, a cracked brake pad, a control arm... etc.
probably not a bearing.
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what causes a light squealing going around a corner? my left rear sometimes makes a screach/squeal when turning... has for a year or more and doesnt happen all the time, just under a fast corner (like say 20mph or more going around a 90 degree corner)