Anyone with a SCSS W/B Gauge?
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Anyone with a SCSS W/B Gauge?
If so do you have the instructions handy? I bought mine used and need to know what wires go where. I've PM'd Abo but if someone can tell me sooner I'd appreciate it.
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Yeah, I've messed with wiring in cars for a long time and even wired up my nitrous with tons of wires everywhere (first time even seeing nitrous in person muchless installing it). This should be a piece of cake compared to that.
I'm also waiting on my Nitrous gauge from him too. But not in a big hurry since I'm installing a Monster this weekend. And never messed with a tranny before (both figuratively and literally).
I'm also waiting on my Nitrous gauge from him too. But not in a big hurry since I'm installing a Monster this weekend. And never messed with a tranny before (both figuratively and literally).
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Yeah, I've messed with wiring in cars for a long time and even wired up my nitrous with tons of wires everywhere (first time even seeing nitrous in person muchless installing it). This should be a piece of cake compared to that.
I'm also waiting on my Nitrous gauge from him too. But not in a big hurry since I'm installing a Monster this weekend. And never messed with a tranny before (both figuratively and literally).
I'm also waiting on my Nitrous gauge from him too. But not in a big hurry since I'm installing a Monster this weekend. And never messed with a tranny before (both figuratively and literally).
got the sheet for racing series volt/press/temp guages
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I just went ahead and called SCSS and he was nice enough to email me the instructions. So hopefully it's not to difficult to install, still haven't looked at them though.
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for the 3 wire plug in..
black=ground, red= keyed ignition, white= dash lighting
for the 2 wire (dimmer)white 12v dash lighting and black is dimer
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I looked at the instructions last night and noticed this Fuel Door in it. I'm supposed to get behind the fuel door button and splice into the wires or something?
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then all i had to do was connect the dimmer wires to the fuel door release
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My SCSS gauge works but the wideband got hot the first few times when I was setting it up but the gauge would peg out to 18% and the light would stay on. Now the wideband no longer gets hot and the gauge stays at 10%. I tried connecting that black wire that the pushbutton goes to, to a Positive wire but that didn't work. I'm getting power to it where I have the fuse installed but it's not getting hot anymore.
Might just a bite the bullet and buy a new LC-1.
Last edited by danieloneil01; 12-13-2009 at 01:02 PM.
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Well, I checked the voltage going to the sensor and it's getting 12 volts and has a good ground. But when I supplied the sensor with 12volts to the red wire with it grounded on the other end it didn't heat up.
Can you get the sensor at AutoZone or Pepboys or is this strictly through innovate?
Can you get the sensor at AutoZone or Pepboys or is this strictly through innovate?
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I don't know about where to get a replacement sensor. I'm sure that's covered at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
but I can't imagine the sensor has gone bad. I never had any trouble with it at all.
but I can't imagine the sensor has gone bad. I never had any trouble with it at all.
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I don't know about where to get a replacement sensor. I'm sure that's covered at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
but I can't imagine the sensor has gone bad. I never had any trouble with it at all.
but I can't imagine the sensor has gone bad. I never had any trouble with it at all.
The sensor did work but then it just stopped working. I never put it in the exhaust. The last time it got warm but never got hot then it just stopped heating up. I need to go to Radio Shack and get a LED to see what code it gives me.
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Well, I bought a LED 2.1V @ 20mA hooked it up and it didn't light up nor was there any current. So I just disconnected the - battery cable and cut all the wires coming out the LC-1 and start over.
Man, the Nitrous gauge was much easier.
Man, the Nitrous gauge was much easier.
#17
The replacement O2 sensor is a Bosch #17014 and plugs right in. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...sku=18730616-P
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Thanks, exactly what I was looking for.
BTW, I hooked everything back up. Still no current to the LED add on but here's what the Sensor is getting. I checked as close to the O2 sensor as possible. I cut a zip tie off at the base of the O2 sensor and stabbed the wires with my volt meter.
I ran it off the black wire going to the O2 Sensor which is a ground I'm assuming and then ran it on a known good ground and in this case the ground to the Traction Control Button. Car was running during tests.
------------Ground on Traction Control----------Ground on Sensor
White--------------13.45v-----------------------------0v
Green---------------2.48v---------------------------.01v
Gray---------------13.38v--------------------------9.18v
Red-----------------4.98v---------------------------.81v
Black on O2 Sensor to Ground = .785 This number on my meter is on the setting that looks like an Arrow with a cross through it. Only setting that read anything without Over Loading.
Black on O2 Sensor to known good 12v source = 9.54V
Any ideas? I'm now leaning towards my O2 Wideband as working, lol. Something with the wiring? I looked it over and followed the instructions to a T. Maybe I'll try finding a different ground and not actually following the instructions because it says to do all the grounds to the same place which is about 5 wires. And I'm soldering all connections.
I also fowarded this to Abo at SCSS
BTW, I hooked everything back up. Still no current to the LED add on but here's what the Sensor is getting. I checked as close to the O2 sensor as possible. I cut a zip tie off at the base of the O2 sensor and stabbed the wires with my volt meter.
I ran it off the black wire going to the O2 Sensor which is a ground I'm assuming and then ran it on a known good ground and in this case the ground to the Traction Control Button. Car was running during tests.
------------Ground on Traction Control----------Ground on Sensor
White--------------13.45v-----------------------------0v
Green---------------2.48v---------------------------.01v
Gray---------------13.38v--------------------------9.18v
Red-----------------4.98v---------------------------.81v
Black on O2 Sensor to Ground = .785 This number on my meter is on the setting that looks like an Arrow with a cross through it. Only setting that read anything without Over Loading.
Black on O2 Sensor to known good 12v source = 9.54V
Any ideas? I'm now leaning towards my O2 Wideband as working, lol. Something with the wiring? I looked it over and followed the instructions to a T. Maybe I'll try finding a different ground and not actually following the instructions because it says to do all the grounds to the same place which is about 5 wires. And I'm soldering all connections.
I also fowarded this to Abo at SCSS
Last edited by danieloneil01; 12-14-2009 at 01:04 PM.
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Hooked the grounds to a good place and still a no go. So I cut the wires on the O2 Sensor and hooked them up to a 12V source and it does get hot. So I soldered them back together and on the LC-1 with the O2 Sensor disconnected I got readings and none of them read higher than 5v. Jesus what a pain in the ***.
Screw it, I'll just buy a new LC-1 with a new O2 Sensor.
Screw it, I'll just buy a new LC-1 with a new O2 Sensor.