Lil'Felt

Ok guys so here's were I'm at now. I have a bunch of parts I plan to order for my 04 gto. It has a lq9 with the lq9 heads and I think ls6 intake. Lt headers slp loudmouth exhaust and a cam.
The cam specs are
Intake-239
Exhaust-243
Lift-.624
Lobe seperation-114
I was unsure if I should keep it or upgrade to something different I wanted to build a nice head and can package that would be good for an occasional 80-100 shot of nitrous. Maybe around mid 400hp range on motor and mid 500 on the shot. The rest of my future parts are as followed
3.5in 1000hp ds
1000hp axles
varam cold air intake
Heavy duty motor mounts
Slp harmonic under drive pulley
Slp line lock
Head & cam intake package undecided
I can't find a good drag racong suspension
And I'm going with Baer or wildwood brakes. Anything in missing or you'd like to suggest...besides the search button I've tried it haven't come up with much. Thanks guys

joeyagls1

For the suspension, look at pedders or BMR, for a little more support, of if you got the money, buy a moser 9'', those are nice. Through some kook headers in there too. Since you have the ls6 intake, get some 243 ls6 heads as well. Do not get AFR or Trickflow.

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Ok where to start....
First off, whats you're budget look like?? This can get expensive fast.

Secondly, what do you want to do with the car? What are your goals? Fast DD, Auto-x, drag racing, roll racing, road course, etc....

Assuming drag racing, and no budget, or atleast a fairly decent budget, here's what you want....

-Get a set of TFS heads (not sure why Joey said NOT to get them, but they perform) If those are out of your budget, go with some AI ported 243's.

-Buy a FAST 102. Since yours is an 04 you'll need to get a bigger throttle body aswell.

-The exhaust, well I know it sounds like ***, but its free flowing enough that its not going to restrict you. Lose the cats if you have them.

-For the rest of your parts list.....
3.5in 1000hp ds
-a carbon fiber shaft from Gforce or DSS will be best here.
1000hp axles
-This is where building the rear gets really expensive, and you need to know what you're going to do with the car.

If you're planning on drag racing it, don't waste your money on building and sort of IRS setup. You might not have to worry about it breaking, BUT, its never going to 60' like a soild rear will. Period. After buying a new DS, Stubs, Axles, Differential, Cover, or paying $5000 for a whole swap kit, you could have a shop fab up what you need and do a Ford 9"

If you're planning on using your car for some twistie ****, stick with the IRS. Don't sink too much money into it, because you won't be straining it like you would with drag racing.

If you're just going to use it for a DD, roll racer, buy a spare set of stock **** to keep in the garage and call it good.


varam cold air intake
Don't waste your money. They're cheap, fit like ****, and don't work anything near what the Svede intakes do.

Heavy duty motor mounts
I recommend the motor mounts from Hinson Super Cars. Super easy to install, and not the least bit harsh. But you will definitely notice a difference and eliminate any motor movement. The SCSS ones are super stiff.

Slp harmonic under drive pulley
Yup.

Slp line lock
From what I've read, the SLP one requires you to bend some lines for it to fit. I have the SJM Kit on my car and everything fits perfect and is super easy to install.

I can't find a good drag racong suspension
Gforce 1320. They offer a 2way adjustable QA1 rear coilover kit for our cars. (Assuming you're sticking with IRS. If you're going SRA, I'm sure the fab shop will finish all of that up for you with whatever shocks you want.

And I'm going with Baer or wildwood brakes. Anything in missing or you'd like to suggest...besides the search button I've tried it haven't come up with much.
google "proxses tuning" and get the CTS-V Brembo upgrade for the front and rears. Bigger rotors and the nice 6 piston (if I'm not mistaken) Brembo brakes. If you are planning on drag racing the car, the stock brakes with a good pad (Hawk HPS or similar will be enough) and wont hinder you using a 15" wheel/tire setup.

He's got longtubes on it. So unless they're rusted through paceshitters really not worth the $1000 to upgrade unless the money is burning a hole in his pocket.

If he wants an all out drag suspension, its a ripoff going with pedders stuff. They're fine for just springs or shocks, but by the time he gets their "drag kit" he's going to spend just as much as he would doing Gforce's QA1 setup.

Since he has the LS6 intake, sell that **** and buy a fast to match your cathedral heads. Don't do a gay square port setup.

Whats wrong with AFR's or TFS heads?



...Hope this helps

409CISecondGen

iTrader: (2)

Why's that? I was going to say the exact opposite lol

joeyagls1

The 243's are better in flowing if you have the right person do it on a flow bench and porting also. I got my car tested with AFR's on a engine dyno with 243s and AFRs, I gained more out of the 243's. Also I would not spend 1000 dollars on a fast 102 with an lq9 366ci?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...er-tb-maf.html

409CISecondGen

iTrader: (2)

Don't get me wrong 243's are a great head, but the more hp you are making regardless of engine size then the larger the difference between a good set of aftermarket heads and a stock ported one. And it's not only peak, but under the curve power too.

thehazz12

This

So...because it has an iron block he should not go with a better intake than the Ls6? Just found that a little interesting. My recommendation: Figure out what intake you have, first.

Edit: Just read that thread (some of it at least). Most of those guys commenting were cam only cars (and I'm doubtful their cams were bigger than the OP's. Keep in mind that he's wanting to get some ported heads so why not get a better intake that will support those heads? Some have reported small gains from the 102 not worth the $1000, others have reported the opposite. It's your money, do what you want. Just do your own research and make a decision. AND make sure you get a good tune. People with **** gains probably had their buddy's brother's cousin's mom's friend's son do their tune. Go to a reputable tuner and get your moneys worth.
As far as heads go, 243s can be made to be a BAD *** head, but you can also do that and more with some of the better aftermarket heads. Just depends on what your goals are. If you're wanting mid 450-ish on the motor and another 100 with the gas, you might as well stick with what you have, have them ported, and save a few bucks.

joeyagls1

That is right man, I just recommend those because they gave me the most out of it. Thats why I do want to comment on build help stuff lots of disagreeing oh well lol.

joeyagls1

Im just listening to what I was told and what my car made on the dyno between parts. Lingenfelter has the world fastest 5th gen camaro, so I would want to listen to them.

6PntHo

iTrader: (2)

What Greg said, pretty much summed it up.

Lil'Felt

Wow thanks for the info guys. And no worries about tuning I have a tuner already lined up when I get done with the build.
It will pretty much be my weekend drag car every once in a whole along with driving to work. I'll post some pics of it tonight

Lil'Felt

so i have another question. should i keep my cam or upgrade to another. its going to mainly be a motor car but will be sprayed once in a while, i most likely will be getting 243 heads and port them along with porting the ls6 intake. getting the svede intake 1000hp axles, gforce drive shaft, qa1 rear shocks, heavy duty motor mounts, pulley and belts, and line lock. still not sure of what rims i want, pretty sure they will be 15 or 16in with a nice size radial underneath them. i already have a clutch in it right now, along with headers and exhaust, short shifter.
thanks for the opinions guys keep em coming.

FlamingTA

iTrader: (8)

Why such a big cam in a 5.7L? Your midrange is going to suck.

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Its a 6.0...


Since you have a manual, run a 15" bias ply setup. Will help a ton with wheelhop, aswell as alot better traction.

If youre going to have ported heads, decent sized cam, then why stick with a tiny 78mm intake/tb??
I picked up 13/17 going from a stock 90mm to the 102 with JUST headers. Imagine what youre leaving on the table going from a 78 to a 102 with a H/C motor.

As for the cam, i would say go smaller. Especially for drag racing a big heavy car. That cam might make good dyno numbers, but is too big in a stock cube motor not revving past 7k.
It makes its power waaaay uptop, I'm sure, and there's no need for that. A smaller (more properly sized) cam will give you a better tq curve along with more power under the curve.

joeyagls1

I almost said the same thing such a big duraction, but those lq9s are 6.0s I had to do research lol. I got 5.7 with 215/231 cam and its perfect.

Lil'Felt

I forgot about the throttle body.thanks again guys

wrp

+1 on Greg and everyone else plus

Good wheels and tires purpose suited to your goals



All GForce1320 Drivetrain, coil overs, Driveshaft, and Ford 9"









My ETP 245's would suck the best machined 243's in and **** them out the exhaust valves. More seriously arguing over the heads is kind of like pig wrestling, you get dirty and the pig likes it. That being said a good investment in a really solid set of heads multiplies the gains from other mods.



**** the 78 MM TB



I prefer the big iron. My LQ9 is 409 Ci



Don't forget the fuel System



221 lbs injectors



All Lovell's supsension



Sorry guys, just showing off

gconnoyer

iTrader: (1)

Jerk!!!

Making me all jealous Bill.

Lil'Felt

What coil overs are those??? That's exactly what I'm looking for!

409CISecondGen

iTrader: (2)

G force. They only make them for the rears


http://www.shop.gforce1320.com/produ...&categoryId=17