mySStery_machine

iTrader: (23)

How important is having the adjustable LCAs for SCCA type racing? I prefer box type but want to make this a onetime investment from BMR and will be getting the relocation brackets for the LCAs, and the adjustable panhard rod; they also have a relocation drop down for the panhard, good idea to grab that as well? The torque arm will take some time to save for but that will be also be BMR as well as the front and rear sway bars. Thanks in advance for the help.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

For any kind of racing that has a track with turns, you want rod ends on the LCA's. If you can't afford them yet, just use the stock LCA's, they aren't that bad. Poly LCA's are the worst thing you can put on your car if you like to corner. Normally, there is almost zero need for adjustable LCA's, unless you rear wheels are out of alignment from some LCA relocation brackets.

The panhard rod should have rod ends also, and the bigger the better. Having an adjustable panhard rod is a good idea. Find out what kind of rod-ends they use; some are much better than others and last longer as well. QA1 rod ends are prefered, but there is a least one other good brand also.

The panhard relocation kit is a good idea if you have lowered the car, but will require special rear shocks, springs, and swaybar for best results.

For the swaybars, I sugest Suspension Techniques; they have a 35/25 combo.

Any particular reason you want to get all this stuff from BMR?

If you need more info on any of this, page Trackbird, he really knows this stuff.

Here's some good links:
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...lca_thread.htm
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=151&

mySStery_machine

iTrader: (23)

I had Hotchkis LCAs and non-adjust panhard in my old SCCA car with Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, and it was lowered on H&R springs. I liked the set-up a lot and really got some good track times, I have just noticed that BMR really has put together what seems to be a really good package. I am tying to make this car a type of SCCA-1/4 mile hybrid, I've seen it done before and am trying to get a well rounded (and balanced) car. I could be totally wrong with all of it though...who knows. Live and learn.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

Its Pretty Important Imo...

mySStery_machine

iTrader: (23)

But with lowering the car would that require putting the LCA relocation brackets? That would then mean getting the adjustable LCAs. I am kinda hooked on box LCAs. The general opinion then is that box is good as long as what kind of bushings are going in? Just want to make this perfectly clear so I don't make a costly mistake. Thanks.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Yeah LCA relocation brackets realign the LCA's so they are level again after you lower the car. You don't have to use them, but you will have lost traction and the car will squat if you don't. You don't need adjustable LCA's just because you use the relocation brackets, unless you are very sloppy installing them. What you do need are LCA's that allow the rear suspension to work, and forget the idea that you have to have BMR stuff. I don't want to say anything more than that about BMR, but I have some good reasons for saying this.

IMO you would be throwing your money away to get BMR boxed LCA's with poly bushings, unless you are just drag racing. I assume you are interested in handling since you posted the question in this section. Get rod-end LCA's or just stay with the stock ones. The best LCA's use QA1 3/4" rod ends, but there are other good ones also. A rod end is a ball joint that moves in any direction so the suspension does not bind.

Boxed LCA's with poly bushing don't allow the rear suspension to work on corners, so you have basicaly turned your fbody into a Mustang.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

Why are poly bushing so bad? I have BMR poly/rubber LCA's. I want to make my car handle really well, but still be noise tolerable. I figured drag racing is out window, with the stock rear and a bunch of low end power. I have a PHR on the way with rod-ends, along with Hotchkis springs and Bilstein shocks. Is this a bad set-up?

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

Polyurethane cold compresses and cold flows overtime, it also binds. Rod ends are very liveable. Some rod ends are sealed with dust boots, so you don't have the problems with dirt and debris getting into them. You just need to make sure you use a quality rod end like something from New Hampshire Ball Bearing.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Yes rod ends are great on LCA's because they work well for both drag racing and corner carving. There are several good ones available; I like QA1's because they have a teflon wipper that helps keep the dirt out. You can also get dust boots for them as sawedoff mentioned.

A real good way to go on LCA's is to order the hollow aluminum ones from Coleman Racing, then put your choice of rod ends on them. The LCA's come with standard right hand and left hand threads. I make stepped aluminum bushings that will fit these for a very fair price. The 3/4 inch size rod ends are the best size to use. So basicaly, you order all the best parts from several sources, then assemble them yourself. This way you get top quality, race-grade LCA's for a bargain-basement price.

You can do the same thing for your panard rod. There's more information on doing all this on JonA's site:

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/L...minumLCAs.html

RedHardSupra

iTrader: (1)

I have the same LCA setup, and they've started to squeal under hard cornering on the street. Then I went to the track, and they're absolutely obnoxiously loud, once you're really pushing it. I'm going to make me some of the aluminum rod end LCA's of JonA's design.
They're cheaper anyway