Jrtcubed

Looking to upgrade my stock non-monsoon system. Was going to go all out and do everything but now I think I'm gonna stick to everything but a sub. How does this stuff look and does anyone have any experience with these?

H/U http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE1...CDE-135BT.html

Components for the door and rear sail http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS6...-SPS-610C.html

Amp for the speakers-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF...e-MRPF300.html

Not looking for crazy, amazing, super expensive sound, just pretty good.
Thanks

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

That, spec wise, is the crappiest HU I've seen with bluetooth, you wouldn't have to go up in price much to get something with atleast 2 sets of RCA's (so you can connect it to your 4 channel without splitting the RCA's) so you can maintain front to back fade control and preferable get 4 volt preouts.

As for the speakers I can't comment on the quality as I have not heard them in person, but what I can tell you is you DO NOT want a Component or for that matter any full range speaker right behind you like that, It will make it practically impossible to balance the audio, plus not doing a sub you'll want something that can hit lower notes back there, find a midrange (something with a frequency response that has a high end around 1k Hz), I have some mids that go up to 8k there and it gives enough voices coming from them that it makes it hard to balance and the sound constantly feels like its coming from behind me.

Can't comment on the amp other then to ask is there a reason your choosing Alpine for EVERYTHING? I've only ever owned one Alpine amp and I was not horribly impressed by it, it would actually get affected by the magnetic field of the sub if it was to close to the box for to long.

Jrtcubed

Hahaha, no reason really. I don't know much about audio, just have always heard Alpine was a good brand.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

Just like danelrichards said, pick a headunit that has 6 preouts so that you can run front and rear to the amp separately an so that you can run your sub RCA separately as well. This will give you the most control over your tuning.

For your front speakers, those s type components you picked would work fine but also like dr said, you don't want those for the rear as well. For the sail panels, I'd recommend either bazooka 6.5" replacements or cdt 6.5" "subs" back there. Those will give you only midbass behind you so that it doesn't pull the soundstage back. This is because your ears can't pinpoint where those frequencies are originating as well as you can pinpoint higher frequencies.

For an amp, pick something that's affordable that is a 4 channel tha gives you the ability to at least low pass the midbass properly and to high pass the front components as well. However, depending on your headunit choice, yo may be able to adjust high and low pass filters from the deck

FSUNole17

iTrader: (18)

As previously mentioned, ditch the rear components for a set of midbass or free-air 6.5" subs in the sails. Amp looks good, Alpine amps are strong. Don't know a thing about the HU, but I have always been partial to Pioneer.

Looks good though

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Kenwood or Pioneer will have have a better headunit for just a little more.
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597 $160
Pioneer DEH-X7500S $150
Both at Crutchfield.

The Alpine MRP-F300 amp is a good choice.

For the door speakers:
Polk Audio db6501 $200
For the rear seat speakers:
*Polk Audio db6501 $200

*don't install the tweeters.
This will filter out the sound above 4k(x-over freq.), and help keep the sound stage up front, but reinforce everything below 4K(x-over freq.) I have my rear speaker set up the same way and it works very good!

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I don't understand why people buy everything from crutchfield, buying from crutchfield is like buying Apple, your paying for the name, be smart with your money. I got those 6501's off Amazon for 107, also here is a pic for the OP of how I did the 6501's in the doors, it was pretty straight forward, I cut out the 4 melted tabs that held the speaker grill in, lined up the screw holes to run thru them then used the included "adapter rings" to "sandwich" the door panel it's setup so when I remove the door panel the speakers come with it and all I do is unplug the quick connects.

I would still go with something else for the sails that is meant to be more of a small woofer and personally I prefer pressed paper cones, they give a more natural sound.

FYI you have about a 3" mounting depth for the sails unless you go in there and cut out the middle wall.

Jrtcubed

Thanks guys I appreciate the help!!

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I don't blame him for buying from crutchfield, they've been around long before the internet, and they have great customer service. The only down side is their higher prices, but I've found that sometimes their prices are in line with other stores. Yeah on most items you can find them for less elsewhere, but not always.

Not everyone has the same comfort level on where the buy products from, even if it does mean paying more.

JDEP162

I buy from crutchfield. Some orices are the same as amazon. And when i got an amp that didnt work, they had a new one at my door in 2 days, sight unseen, with free shipping to return old one too. Ive called them at 930pm and talked to people when i had trouble, real live humans with car audio experiance. Try that with amazon.

rotwiler

iTrader: (1)

I was not happy with my infinity kappas in the sailpanel..until.. today. I was going to get a pioneer 80 prs but seen a kenwood x996 on amazon for $144 refurb and gave it a shot. Wow, huge sound improvement over my 2006 model kenwood x790. Can adjust tweeter level seperate, so many options is fantastic. Subs add so much to sound, I would rather have my speakers running of the hu and have a sub than have 4 amplified speakers, subs add so much. if it was my car and I was trying to keep cost down, a nice 10 inch sub in a stealth box with around 300 watts rms amp and run the speakers off hu. I just put a cheap jvc hd radio with usb in my old truck with 4 infinty reference speakers running off the stereo and a cheap oem toyota truck kicker box behind seat..cost was around $260 total for all and sounds excellent.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

ya, its amazing how empty music in the car sounds without a sub once you get used to having one. it makes listening to music anywhere besides my car or a concert disappointing lol