System Opinions
#1
System Opinions
Looking to upgrade my stock non-monsoon system. Was going to go all out and do everything but now I think I'm gonna stick to everything but a sub. How does this stuff look and does anyone have any experience with these?
H/U http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE1...CDE-135BT.html
Components for the door and rear sail http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS6...-SPS-610C.html
Amp for the speakers-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF...e-MRPF300.html
Not looking for crazy, amazing, super expensive sound, just pretty good.
Thanks
H/U http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE1...CDE-135BT.html
Components for the door and rear sail http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS6...-SPS-610C.html
Amp for the speakers-
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF...e-MRPF300.html
Not looking for crazy, amazing, super expensive sound, just pretty good.
Thanks
#2
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That, spec wise, is the crappiest HU I've seen with bluetooth, you wouldn't have to go up in price much to get something with atleast 2 sets of RCA's (so you can connect it to your 4 channel without splitting the RCA's) so you can maintain front to back fade control and preferable get 4 volt preouts.
As for the speakers I can't comment on the quality as I have not heard them in person, but what I can tell you is you DO NOT want a Component or for that matter any full range speaker right behind you like that, It will make it practically impossible to balance the audio, plus not doing a sub you'll want something that can hit lower notes back there, find a midrange (something with a frequency response that has a high end around 1k Hz), I have some mids that go up to 8k there and it gives enough voices coming from them that it makes it hard to balance and the sound constantly feels like its coming from behind me.
Can't comment on the amp other then to ask is there a reason your choosing Alpine for EVERYTHING? I've only ever owned one Alpine amp and I was not horribly impressed by it, it would actually get affected by the magnetic field of the sub if it was to close to the box for to long.
As for the speakers I can't comment on the quality as I have not heard them in person, but what I can tell you is you DO NOT want a Component or for that matter any full range speaker right behind you like that, It will make it practically impossible to balance the audio, plus not doing a sub you'll want something that can hit lower notes back there, find a midrange (something with a frequency response that has a high end around 1k Hz), I have some mids that go up to 8k there and it gives enough voices coming from them that it makes it hard to balance and the sound constantly feels like its coming from behind me.
Can't comment on the amp other then to ask is there a reason your choosing Alpine for EVERYTHING? I've only ever owned one Alpine amp and I was not horribly impressed by it, it would actually get affected by the magnetic field of the sub if it was to close to the box for to long.
#4
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Just like danelrichards said, pick a headunit that has 6 preouts so that you can run front and rear to the amp separately an so that you can run your sub RCA separately as well. This will give you the most control over your tuning.
For your front speakers, those s type components you picked would work fine but also like dr said, you don't want those for the rear as well. For the sail panels, I'd recommend either bazooka 6.5" replacements or cdt 6.5" "subs" back there. Those will give you only midbass behind you so that it doesn't pull the soundstage back. This is because your ears can't pinpoint where those frequencies are originating as well as you can pinpoint higher frequencies.
For an amp, pick something that's affordable that is a 4 channel tha gives you the ability to at least low pass the midbass properly and to high pass the front components as well. However, depending on your headunit choice, yo may be able to adjust high and low pass filters from the deck
For your front speakers, those s type components you picked would work fine but also like dr said, you don't want those for the rear as well. For the sail panels, I'd recommend either bazooka 6.5" replacements or cdt 6.5" "subs" back there. Those will give you only midbass behind you so that it doesn't pull the soundstage back. This is because your ears can't pinpoint where those frequencies are originating as well as you can pinpoint higher frequencies.
For an amp, pick something that's affordable that is a 4 channel tha gives you the ability to at least low pass the midbass properly and to high pass the front components as well. However, depending on your headunit choice, yo may be able to adjust high and low pass filters from the deck
#6
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Kenwood or Pioneer will have have a better headunit for just a little more.
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597 $160
Pioneer DEH-X7500S $150
Both at Crutchfield.
The Alpine MRP-F300 amp is a good choice.
For the door speakers:
Polk Audio db6501 $200
For the rear seat speakers:
*Polk Audio db6501 $200
*don't install the tweeters.
This will filter out the sound above 4k(x-over freq.), and help keep the sound stage up front, but reinforce everything below 4K(x-over freq.) I have my rear speaker set up the same way and it works very good!
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597 $160
Pioneer DEH-X7500S $150
Both at Crutchfield.
The Alpine MRP-F300 amp is a good choice.
For the door speakers:
Polk Audio db6501 $200
For the rear seat speakers:
*Polk Audio db6501 $200
*don't install the tweeters.
This will filter out the sound above 4k(x-over freq.), and help keep the sound stage up front, but reinforce everything below 4K(x-over freq.) I have my rear speaker set up the same way and it works very good!
#7
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Kenwood or Pioneer will have have a better headunit for just a little more.
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597 $160
Pioneer DEH-X7500S $150
Both at Crutchfield.
The Alpine MRP-F300 amp is a good choice.
For the door speakers:
Polk Audio db6501 $200
For the rear seat speakers:
*Polk Audio db6501 $200
*don't install the tweeters.
This will filter out the sound above 4k(x-over freq.), and help keep the sound stage up front, but reinforce everything below 4K(x-over freq.) I have my rear speaker set up the same way and it works very good!
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X597 $160
Pioneer DEH-X7500S $150
Both at Crutchfield.
The Alpine MRP-F300 amp is a good choice.
For the door speakers:
Polk Audio db6501 $200
For the rear seat speakers:
*Polk Audio db6501 $200
*don't install the tweeters.
This will filter out the sound above 4k(x-over freq.), and help keep the sound stage up front, but reinforce everything below 4K(x-over freq.) I have my rear speaker set up the same way and it works very good!
I would still go with something else for the sails that is meant to be more of a small woofer and personally I prefer pressed paper cones, they give a more natural sound.
FYI you have about a 3" mounting depth for the sails unless you go in there and cut out the middle wall.
Last edited by Daniel Richards; 05-11-2013 at 04:27 AM.
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#9
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I don't blame him for buying from crutchfield, they've been around long before the internet, and they have great customer service. The only down side is their higher prices, but I've found that sometimes their prices are in line with other stores. Yeah on most items you can find them for less elsewhere, but not always.
Not everyone has the same comfort level on where the buy products from, even if it does mean paying more.
Not everyone has the same comfort level on where the buy products from, even if it does mean paying more.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 05-11-2013 at 03:34 PM.
#10
I buy from crutchfield. Some orices are the same as amazon. And when i got an amp that didnt work, they had a new one at my door in 2 days, sight unseen, with free shipping to return old one too. Ive called them at 930pm and talked to people when i had trouble, real live humans with car audio experiance. Try that with amazon.
#11
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I was not happy with my infinity kappas in the sailpanel..until.. today. I was going to get a pioneer 80 prs but seen a kenwood x996 on amazon for $144 refurb and gave it a shot. Wow, huge sound improvement over my 2006 model kenwood x790. Can adjust tweeter level seperate, so many options is fantastic. Subs add so much to sound, I would rather have my speakers running of the hu and have a sub than have 4 amplified speakers, subs add so much. if it was my car and I was trying to keep cost down, a nice 10 inch sub in a stealth box with around 300 watts rms amp and run the speakers off hu. I just put a cheap jvc hd radio with usb in my old truck with 4 infinty reference speakers running off the stereo and a cheap oem toyota truck kicker box behind seat..cost was around $260 total for all and sounds excellent.