Cali SS

iTrader: (13)

First off I did a search and I couldn't find an answer that satisfied my questions.


My car just recently started doing this:

On start up the car starter would not react and then slowly start to crank. It will start and then either idle crappy or just stall. After a few tries the car will run with no problems.

With the car off but in "run" the voltage reads about 5-9 amps. With the engine running voltages varies between 12-15 amps. I also have to constantly reprogram my radio settings because the radio resets (It's an Alpine CDA-9827). I'm running an Alpine amp with two infinity 4x6 speakers and an Alpine 10' sub.

I just put in a new Optima Red Top battery and I have the same problem. Alternator is good also. Keep in mind that after driving the car around for a while and parking it, the car will fire right up. It's only after it sits for a while when I have this problem.

I checked the grounds in the engine bay and they are fine. Where/what else should I check? Any help would be appreciated

LS1_SS

iTrader: (127)

ls1? lt1?

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Sonds like you have a bad battery, yes you replaced it though. I would see if you have a heavy draw on the battery, key-on-off. Are you sure your amp is shutting off?
Makes sence cranks slow and runs bad after starting due to low voltage. Might want to take a look at other end of pos cable and the aux post cable as well, see if all are tight and clean.

A Str8 Up G

iTrader: (22)

Check your remote wire on your amp/deck. Sounds like the amp isn't turning off when you shut your car off.

technical

Parasitic drain. Put your ammeter inline with the disconnected black battery cable. If you're pulling more that .1 amp something isn't turning off...or something is shorted.

Cali SS

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the suggestions.

First off it's a 2002 Camaro SS.

The amp should be shutting off. I will have to check that. The problem is this still happens when the amp's power is disconnected so maybe the head unit is draining power. I forgot to mention that I have a capacitor. Could that cause problems when it is not needed?

technical

A capacitor shouldn't drain power if it's connected to a switched source.

Snootch

iTrader: (3)

Possibly it could be a corroded ground wire or connector between the battery and chassis? A lot of people don't look at that. I say this because you are having low voltage symptoms with several seperate systems. This leads me to think it's a main power problem. Since you just replaced the battery, and you are seeing a 4-5 volt increase when the car is running; it seems the alternator is charging. I would look at all your stock 12v (both power and ground) wiring, starting with the chassis/battery ground.

Cali SS

iTrader: (13)

Ok, I took the car in and had it tested for parasitic drain. The shop couldn't find any parasitic drain. The alternator is good. The only problem they found was a bad MAF sensor. I know that could be the cause for the crappy idle and stalling but can that be the cause for the battery being drained?

Now what I'm going to do is get my battery replaced under warranty. i'll still check all of the 12v wiring as suggested. My question is, where exactly would I find the chassis/battery ground? I found a few grounds in the engine bay and they were fine.

Thanks for all the suggestions/help! I really appreciate it!

technical

Who checked the alternator and how did they check it?

I took it for granted when you stated the alternator was good, but it sure doesn't sound like it. If the battery cables are in good shape and the Optima battery was new, then you shouldn't be replacing the battery unless you got a bad one.

NOSjohn

iTrader: (9)

Check your ALTERNATOR ! Go to advanced auto, autozone or similar and they will check it for your for FREE.