dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

a friend from school said he'd sell me his powerbass 800 watt 4-channel amp for $50. my sound system's stock except for a head unit now, but i figured i'd use it to power my door speakers when i get new ones. anybody have any experience with these amps?

dragonrage

I have no experience with the brand. However, I looked it up and it has 2 15A fuses. I wouldn't expect more than about 50WRMS per channel tops. 30A at 13.5V is about 400W, but it's a class A/B amp which are only around 50-60% efficient. If we say 60%, that's no more than 60WRMS per channel. And if they're BSing on the power, perhaps they BS on other specs like SNR too. You could have as much hiss as music content for all we know.

Just tell him to let you try it out. If you like it, buy it. The price is good if it does noticibly better than your HU.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

I carry the Powerbass brand and they do have good power. As Dragonrage pointed out they are overrated as far as the power rating but they are reliable and clean.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ok cool. how big of an upgrade do you think it would be over the stock monsoon amp? and i'd be running component door speakers and midbass in the sail panels, i'll probably take out the rear 4'' ones. i figure for $50 it would be worth it

dragonrage

huge because it will allow you to run your own crossovers

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

It also gives you the optiuon of full range sound from the sails if you choose instead of just bass. Personally I'd bridge it down on both channels and run it as a 2channel to the comps in the doors and get a really good set. Then add a sub and amp in the rear and skip the sails.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

so you'd just have a good set of component speakers in the front doors being run off the powerbass amp and a sub, with no speakers in the back seat or very back? would it sound alright without speakers in the back seat area?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

This would be a basic sound quality type set up. It would sound good with the right speakers and sub combo. The rear speakers are basically just for fill. When you have good speakers in the front it gives you a good sound stage without drawign the ear toward the rear of the car. Think of it like a rock concert with the sound coming at you like a wall. The bass from the rear fills everything else out. Try it out and see. If you feel you need more speakers for fill you can always add them easily.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ok, i think thats what i'll do then. you think the 800 watt powerbass would do a good job of powering your CL-61 6.5" Component System and if i got them later, your CDT CL-6EX Coaxials?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Absolutley. The CDT's respond well to aftermarket power. That was the first pair of CDT's I ever owned. I had the CL-61 comps in the doors. They sound great with lots of bass and the highs are really nice. You can really put some power to them and they maintain their clarity with virtually no listenening fatigue at high volume.
The only thing you'd have to consider is where to put the tweeter since you have a Camaro.
I do have the CDT CL-E61CV that is a comp set that converts to a coaxial but still wires up like a component (1 pair of wires to the tweeter and 1 pair to the midbass). These would also handle aftermarket power well but mount like stock. Same as above as far as powerhandling and clarity but do have a cast frame. Something to consider.
Overall either would work I just wanted to give you mounting choices to work with.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

Are those the same components that are on your site that say they are for convertibles?

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

LOL!! The convertible system means it can change...not that it's for convertibles . Although they will fit in those cars as well! The ones on my site are actually a step down from those and are the CL-61CV. The E61CV (on the left) is a bit different driver. The differences are the 61CV has a smaller magnet, stamped steel frame. It still has the same cone and still converts to a coaxial. The E61CV (on the right) handles more power, has a cast frame for more rigidity/strength, gold connectors, and a larger magnet. If you were to look at them from the top they look the same. If you look at them from the side you see immediate differences. Here's the 2 drivers so you can see the differences:

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ohhhh, it makes sense now, haha! we all have our moments lol. so how much price difference is there between those and the ones on your site. actually, how much would a set of E61CV convertable components and a set of coaxials for the sail panels cost all together? also, because i'm running an aftermarket amp, for the sail panels would you suggest coaxials or midbass drivers? thanks

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

The CL-E61CV components are $189.00. So they are $40.00 more. I generally recommend the 61CV for stock Monsoon applications and the E61CV for aftermarket amplification applications since they handle more power. They both sound very good.
Now, to address the sail panels. This is more of a listening preference as to put midbass drivers in that location, coaxials, or nothing at all. It all depends on the listener as to what to put there. I personally put midbass there to have a rear fill that blends the low end bass from the subs to the middle frequencies and it works pretty well. I have seen others put coaxials there with good success.
The CDT CL-6EX coaxials are $99.00. I do have others not listed on my site that are less expensive but still good quality that also sound great from MA Audio, Cadence, Powerbass, Phoenix Gold and several others. Especialy since it's basically for fill and not for a primary source.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ok cool, i think i'm going to go with CL-E61CV components for the doors and midbass drivers in the sails and run them off the powerbass 800 watt amp. then get a stealth box and another amp to run one 10. which do you think sounds the best in a stealth box, a kicker cvr or the cdt subs? i've had kicker comps before and have always been impressed with kicker subs, but which do you think hits harder in the small stealth enclosure?

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

bump.

KEE AUDIO

iTrader: (65)

Overall the CDT sub is better for overall sound. The CVR is a good sub though but they are priced pretty closely. The CDT is a much "tighter" subwoofer and hits hard without needing alot of power to it. I have both and have heard both subs side by side but for the best sound quality I'd go with the CDT over the CVR. I think you'd really like the way the EF-100 hits.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

ok, thats what i was looking for, i listen to mostly rock and fast music but i want a decent amount of bass out of it as well. what amp would you push it with? i'm looking at around a 400-500 watt kicker or hifonics right now