fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

Nobody on here knows me for this, but in the past I have been a car audio guru. Ive been out of the loop the last few years, so Im doing things differently.

heres the plan:
7" eD subs in rear sails (already in place)
powered by an older PPI 2 channel amp (i think its model pc250 or something like that)

12" JL w6 v1 in rear cubby, in a custom fiberglass enclosure
powered by a matching PPI pc275 i think it is

front components will be dynaudio 2-way components
powered by a zapco amp (still not finalized)

i am keeping the stock stereo, but im using the JL audio clean sweep to process the speaker level to 4 volt RCA level.

now the kicker of it...i dont trust any cable brands for decent interconects (except Kimber Kable) so im going to build my own interconects (affectionately known as RCAs) using 3 strands of 18 awg per channel, braided, then encased in clear heatshrink.

as for power wire, im using 1/0 guage with a 150 amp circuit breaker, 16 guage speaker cable to the components, and 12 gauge to the subs. the amps will be in the old spare tires location, and i plan to build kick panels for the components.

Ill post pictures as i go along. im getting the PPI amps and JL sub from a friend for cheap, and they are better IMO than just about anything else on the market today.

i know this is old school, but im not a fan of the direction car audio has gone in the last few years.

post your opinions.

heres some old pics from my previous car, my new system will be 100% stealth.





and a link to that cars system:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/482117/4

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Well...I don't think you can fit a 12" sub in a stealth enclosure in the driver's side cubby - not enough air space. And making your own cables is way over the top - any decent brand of cables will work just as well (if not better) and be more flexible than heatshrink.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

i am modifying a prebuild stealth box by cutting the back out and fiberglassing it to contour and use every square inch back there. I know it can be done.

and making my own cables might be overkill, but its what i prefer to do. flexibility isnt necessarily the most important thing, but with decent heat shrink i should be able to move it enough to route it through the car.

no more talk, ill post pics when i get started in the next couple of weeks.

Navy01Z

iTrader: (4)

Damn good choice in amps. I love the old school PPIs and cant get much cleaner than Zapco. Do you know what series Zapco it is?

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

i havnt decided on a zapco amp yet, my first phase is just the PPI amps and sub. the fromt components and zapco amp will be phase 2.

Navy01Z

iTrader: (4)

Sweet!!

TXB4Z

iTrader: (2)

A 12 will fit just fine back there and a W6v1 doesn't need a lot of air space like the v2's. I have a ID12 in a custom fiberglass box back there an it sounds great.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

thanks TXB4Z, im glad to see someone agrees that it can fit.

i didnt see a point of doing a 10 since i have a pair of 7s in the rear sails. i wanted a wider variance of frequencies.

TXB4Z

iTrader: (2)

Yup, it's like a glove. I'll take some better pics of it in the car.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

ok so to bring this one back up, i have some updates. I am working on the sub box, its almost done. i cut a face of 3/4" MDF, then wasnt happy with it, so i removed it and cut another one, so youll notice two different box faces in the pictures.

also, today my JL audio cleansweep as all wiring should arrive. I decided not to build my own RCAs as i found Monster XLN PRO RCAs for the same price.

ill keep this thread updated on my progress.
im posting the pics in chronological order.

Hatchetman337

iTrader: (3)

Those Monster RCAs should be good. I've always been happy with their products. You'd probably be fine with just a 4 gauge power and ground wire, though. I think 0 is a little overkill. I ran a 1500W rms class D and an 80W rms per channel 4-channel amp all on 4 gauge and had no issues. Also, I only used a 120amp ANL fuse for the whole system and never blew it. Not that it would be bad to go bigger, but IMO, overkill.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

haha well im known for overkill. I like to have the power there as i might someday upgrade my amps.

heres some updated pics of the fiberglass area.

Hatchetman337

iTrader: (3)

You could totally paint that gray and use it as a fake rock next to your house Actually, that wouldn't be a bad idea for outdoor speakers . . . Looks pretty good, though.

dragonrage

12w6 (v1) needs about 1.5cuft of air. I have a pair. They weren't even a slight consideration for my Camaro. Fi Q12 or Dayton would have been better. DIYMA works pretty well, too.

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

yea well itll have to make do in there. lol it can always be replaced in the future. I got the sub and amps for $125 from a friend.

heres some updated pics. I ran the 1/0 through the fender well with my !wire wires.

dragonrage

That is a good price, yes. Not like I'm claiming it'll explode or anything. If you had a deck with parametric EQ, you could somewhat fix it, but alas....

fast01z28

iTrader: (6)

well im using polyfill in the box. unfortunately the cleansweep doesnt have a sub out (WTF!!!), so it doesnt do the corrections that you speak of that can be done on a parametric eq.