Bazooka 6 1/4" 4 Ohm DVC Sail Panel Install w/ pics
#61
Ungrounded Moderator
iTrader: (4)
I wouldn't use those. They have only a 1" voice coil, are rated at only 30W RMS and 60W peak, and their frequency range is more mid than mid-bass (50Hz - 6,000Hz). Besides, they are designed for sealed enclosure and the sail panels are considered infinite baffle rather than sealed.
#63
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wish I would have seen this before I redid mine. Went with Memphis units all the way around from a local shop. Sounds alright but they were a pain to get in correctly. This looks way easier.
#65
Teching In
Install questions::
I just wonder after reading this over, and over for a few days if OP used connectors to connect the wires to the bazookas, or if they were soldered on? I also plan on using the original red/black harness that was attached to the delco speakers. Is it safe to think that the red wires are positive, and the black wires are negative? And does it matter which pair get wired to which coil on the sub? Sorry so many questions, I just want to do this right the first time, and I'm pretty sure Santa's bringing me some speakers for Christmas.
#66
I'm not sure but would expect, yes. I hooked the red and black up in pairs on the new speaker just like the old speaker - so the wires for each voice coil are kept together.
As you solder one new speaker, I suggest you keep the other old one as-is so you can compare.
#67
Teching In
Bazooka 6.5 install
I did my Bazooka install today, it was much easier than I thought it was going to be and they sound great! Here's a few pictures of the process. I can't wait to go for a drive in the spring and have some good tunes!
New Bazooka all soldered up and ready on the left, stock speaker on the right.
These are the new speed nuts I bought (on the left) They were tight enough that I didn't need to tape them.
Ready for installation!
All done!
New Bazooka all soldered up and ready on the left, stock speaker on the right.
These are the new speed nuts I bought (on the left) They were tight enough that I didn't need to tape them.
Ready for installation!
All done!
#68
It looks like you haven't addressed the sail panel TSB yet. It's attached to this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-interior.html
BTW - You can see where the screw hole is in my original pictures. (The extra screw is not in place.)
#69
Teching In
I was JUST talking about fixing that funny gap today, I didn't have any idea that it was a common issue. I have gotten so much good information from here! Thanks =)
Nice Job!
It looks like you haven't addressed the sail panel TSB yet. It's attached to this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-interior.html
BTW - You can see where the screw hole is in my original pictures. (The extra screw is not in place.)
It looks like you haven't addressed the sail panel TSB yet. It's attached to this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-interior.html
BTW - You can see where the screw hole is in my original pictures. (The extra screw is not in place.)
#73
Teching In
What are the odds that you have a picture of, or dimensions for that screw? I'm assuming it's just a sheet metal screw, right? I bet I have a couple laying around. It's warm (24*) here today, and I feel like an garage project maybe this afternoon.
#75
Teching In
... So, I promise, this is my last question about this. I feel like when I push that back where it's supposed to be, that it's very close to the foam surround on the speaker. Is that going to be an issue? I'd hate for that bottom middle speaker grille cover to cut in to that foam, I feel like it would be bad news!